Now, lift the door panel up and away from where it hooks on under the window. Set it aside.
Here's the back of the projector, mounted about mid way in the door steel. The projectors include a nice little hole saw, and it makes fast work of the door steel. Power the projector with clip leads to set the logo's orientation, then tighten the lock rings.
Next comes the FUN part! The door wiring "snorkel" pops out with locking tabs. You'll have to make a tool like I did to get the back side to let go. Once it's out, pull the rubber boot away to expose the plastic frame piece. Fish the projector's small cable thru the boot, then thru the plastic frame. The arrows shows the little black cable.
You will have to poke a hole into the rubber sheet inside to get access to under the dash. You will have to remove the kick panel, sill piece, and rubber door seal to get back there. Your trim popper tool will work here too. The rubber sheet is a bit lower than the main hole of the wiring "snorkel" and an inspection mirror will help.
Be sure the rubber boot is completely back onto the plastic frame before popping it back into place.
Inside, under the dash, you can tap into the courtesy light that's there. I used solder and tape. You will have to trial and error here, I think the red was positive and yellow negative. I think.
Notice my all-in-the-mike CB remote unit.
If all went well, you will have this with an open door. It's bright enough to be a courtesy light outside. The projector is outside the door seal, but there's about 1/2" of clearance there, so it won't interfere with the door. You might have to clean the lens once in a while.