Parking Light/Side Marker Wire Cut - How to fix? - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Parking Light/Side Marker Wire Cut - How to fix?

So, upon ordering my expensive new front LED turn signal system, I decided to go out and try to remove the side marker bulbs since they were stuck in tight last time. Used some pliers and got the ride side out no problem. The wiring on the left side though was very short/tight and made it very difficult to twist the bulb socket out. I got it, but not before completely ripping a wire out. There's still a small bit of wire protruding out of the socket, so I'm hoping I can get some solder on it and just re-attach it to the rest of the wire. However, I'm not sure how to go about this.

Picture:



The green wire got bashed up, but is still connected. The purple/black wire, which I'm assuming is either a ground or for the parking lights, is completely ripped. The turn signal still works, but the side marker on either side does not work. When the parking or head lights are turned on, only the right side turn signal light stays on. The left side does not come on at all.

So, here's my thought. I either remove the headlight/turn signal housing to have better access to get the bulb out of that tight spot as there isn't enough room to get it out of that cramped area, or I cut the green wire too and pull the wiring up out of that area and re-solder both of them on.

Thoughts? Also, stripping the wire and re-soldering will work perfectly fine, won't it? If I don't remove the headlight housing, I'll still be working in a small space, but I expect it to at least be do-able. There's no way I can have enough room or be able to see just by working inside the wheel well door.

Edit: If I were to remove the headlamp assembly, I'd have to take the bumper off, which means removing my push bar which would be a total pain. However, I just had the thought... even if I cut the green wire, I still have to get the bulb socket back down there to put it back inside the lamp assembly. So it looks like I might need to try to solder within the fender well?

Last edited by Nitemare3219; 01-15-2013 at 02:11 PM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 02:24 PM
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I would go for cutting the green wire, probably the ground. Then solder both wires up in the open. Worst case you can probably buy a new socket and solder in. Might spray some lubricant on the stuck socket like WD40 or PB Blaster

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

I managed to squeeze the wire underneath the tongue that rests on part of the frame to get the bulb in a workable area behind the headlights, so no need to cut the green wire. However, the green wire is obviously marred up. I think some electrical tape on it is in order? Here's another picture:



As you can see, the black wire is entirely too short. Should I just toss some solder on the wire sticking out of the socket, strip some of the black/purple wire and add solder to it, then solder together and shrink wrap? I'm not sure how else I'd do it... but I just hope it works properly and I can get the solder on that small bit of wire that's left. Any suggestion for making it happen right the first time?

Edit: Found a way to get even more access to the light by pulling the turn signal wire out that way as well. Should have plenty of space to do the work, but it's just a matter of making sure it works.

Last edited by Nitemare3219; 01-15-2013 at 02:58 PM.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 03:40 PM
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At the request of your Private Message, I have reviewed this post...


... YIKES!

Gentle young Padawan! lol

Okay, but seriously... Those wires are in rough shape now. I would consider possibly new bulb mounts/housings (they shouldnt be that expensive online) so that way you can just crimp the wires together and have a strong connection. My concern with soldering and taping is that the integrity of the actual conductive circuit is already compromised and could create a functionality issue later on.

The best bet is to replace as much of it as you can, and wire into where the wired are least/not damaged...

I wish I could be of more help. When I replaced my LED Turns I went in behind the wheelwell and did some gentle turning and twisting. As far as the marker lights go, I am due to replace them and will be doing some bumper removal in order to do it right the first time...

Good luck!

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Tried looking online for the part. Found one place that it may be it but only listed it for 2009 models. Rockauto only sells the bulbs, not the socket. However I'm not very concerned as this is a small fix. As long as I get a good connection with the solder and use the super grade electrical tape I have along with shrink wrap, I imagine it to work fine. I just wish I had more wire to work with!

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 04:51 PM
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Probably hard to find a socket in a junk yard for a Commander! Someone was parting out a 2006 for parts, see f/s parting out 2006 jeep commander see the last page - has his email if he still exists. Check a dealer they may have it and not be too over priced. solder a short piece onto the black/purple wire and then to the socket but have the heat shrink on first and up the line. Then test before shrinking, if works shrink and tape. Then look for a new socket

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitemare3219 View Post
Tried looking online for the part. Found one place that it may be it but only listed it for 2009 models.
There should be no difference in the different year models for this part.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 06:27 PM
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http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_...turn=newˇ
this is the site that dealers uses if you ask them for the connectors you might need and it should be a sticky too! with that u can find it yourself and then give them a call and most of the times its instock

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 07:09 PM
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u can remove the terminal from the connector.with small screwdriver or small long nose pliers remove the rubber in the back dont loose it.
from the front with a small unfolded paper clip theres an opening over the terminal insert the paper clip in it gently this should release the locking tab on the connector.
then u should be able tu remove whats remaining of the terminal.now at that point u can choose to find a suitable terminal but i would still repair this one.
find some pre glued heat shrink tube cut a piece of it then slide it over the longest part of the wire with the rubber u removed earlier too .skin about half an inch from that wire then skin whats left of the insulator from the terminal side.now twist them together in a way they will not make a bump but twist them enough to hold while u weld them together.be carefull for the shrink tube too much heat and it will shrink.after weld is made slide shrink tube over weld and heat with a lighter.then check terminal locking tab if its on the terminal then lift it up a bit gently and insert back in connector .verify its locked in place then slide back the rubber in the hole. ur done! i would do the same for the other one instead of using tape u can cut a little bit highier and do a dood job without removing the terminal from the connector and still cover that little hole u made in it with the shrink tube.but use with glue in it that way nothing gets in and its as good as new!!

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Last edited by H311B0Y; 01-15-2013 at 07:12 PM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a million for all that info! Never would have known I could remove the terminal and fix it like that. I'm hoping the locking tab you're referring to in the connector is fairly easy to lock/unlock, but other than that this job seems pretty doable. Depending on how big of a headache it is to fix this one will let me know if I do the same with the other versus tape.
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