How to replace water pump [Archive] - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum

: How to replace water pump


mccoymail
12-19-2010, 04:52 PM
Help guys -
I have a 2006 Commander 4.7L that needs the water pump replaced. Can anyone give me a step by step? Major problem as it's darn cold outside and i have to do this in the driveway. I really don't want to spend lots of time "figuring it out". At the least, can anyone tell me if the radiators needs to come out or can I get the pump out with minimal dissassembly?

Thanks again:icon_confused:

Creek
12-19-2010, 07:22 PM
Help guys -
I have a 2006 Commander 4.7L that needs the water pump replaced. Can anyone give me a step by step? Major problem as it's darn cold outside and i have to do this in the driveway. I really don't want to spend lots of time "figuring it out". At the least, can anyone tell me if the radiators needs to come out or can I get the pump out with minimal dissassembly?

Thanks again:icon_confused:

I have never replaced a water pump on the XK, but any I have replaced have been major jobs. Take a look at the on line service manual post. You can access the factory manual with just a few tries. Good luck.

mccoymail
12-19-2010, 08:05 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. I looked at the online Chilton manual and the instructions are very vague. In a nutshell it says, "remove old water pump, install new water pump".

Anyone else replace this?

bob123
12-19-2010, 09:37 PM
Looks pretty straight forward.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwhO0MT2xMI

Mongo
12-20-2010, 07:37 AM
I haven't changed a water pump on an XK either, but changed them lots of other vehicles.

Transverse mounted FWD motors, changing the water pump is often very difficult.

Longitidinal mounted RWD/4WD motors (XK configuration), changing the water pump is usually pretty straight forward, and fairly easy.

I've never had to remove the radiator to pull a water pump, including my 4 cyl XJ, BUT, it can be a tight fit, so I can't garauntee you won't have to on every vehicle, until someone has tried it.

Having to drain fluid that is mostly water and working with things that are wet will add even more to the discomfort of working in freezing temps.

One word of advice, loosen anything bolted to the shaft of the water pump before removing the accessory belt. The belt will help the shaft resist turning so you can put torque on the bolt heads, if you wait till after removing the accessory belt, the water pump will spin freely and you will be left tyring to improvise a way to hold the shaft still as you try to put torque on the bolt heads to loosen.

Don't completely remove the bolts until after you get the belt off, if the bolts hold the pulley on the shaft, the shaft can pop off and damage the belt or make the belt real difficult to get off.

07JeepXK
12-20-2010, 08:10 AM
Edit: I wrote this prior to watching that video. The engine in the video is a little different then ours on the XK so not all of those steps are needed. Also, If you dont plan on changing the thermostat, then you really dont need to drain all of the coolant out of the radiator. That would be a waste of time and money unless you plan on flushing the system of all the old coolant.

On the XK, the water pump pulley is pressed on. When you purchase a new water pump, it already comes with a new pulley attached. Its a very easy swap, very straight forward, but working in the cold in your driveway will make it miserable. There are several bolts holding on the water pump, and one of them is behind the idler pulley. So that pulley will have to come off to get to that bolt. Since you dont have to worry about the water pump pulley, you can take off the belt first. There is no need to have the belt on there. After that loosen all the bolts and pull off the water pump. If you have a mechanical fan, this will obviously need to come off first before you can start taking off the water pump. A cresent wrench and spanner wrench is all thats needed to get this off. Once the water pump is off make sure you scrape all the old gasket off of the engine so you get a good mating surface with the new gasket. Install the new water pump and reinstall the idler pulley assembly and belt. Reinstall mechanical fan if you have one and refill the coolant. To refill the coolant, first take off the radiator cap and fill the radiator to the top. Next, turn on the XK with the heat on high. Let the vehicle warm up to normal operating temperature. As the coolant cirulates through the engine, air pockets will come out of the radiator. When this happens slowly refill the radiator. Once all the air pockets are out and HOT air is blowing out of the vents top off the radiator and overflow tank and you are set! While you are at it you might as well replace the thermostat too. Normally the thermostat is located towards the drivers side top of the engine right behind where the upper radiator hose meets the engine. However, on the 4.7 Liter the thermostat is on the bottom of the engine near the passenger side lower radiator hose. If you change the thermostat, your mostlikely going to lose a lot of coolant. Remember the only coolant you can use is the Mopar coolant right from the dealer or zerex g-05 HOAT Coolant.

Mongo
12-20-2010, 08:42 AM
07JeepXK has a good right up for you.

One more to consider, the Pressure Cap wears also and can cause problems in leaks or maintaining a lower pressure in the system then designed, which can cause problems. I make it a habit to replace the pressure cap with the thermostat, and do it every couple of years, like when I change out the coolant.

Zerex G-05 is the aftermarket equalivalent of Chrysler HOAT, I'm NOT aware of any others, so either get the Zerex G-05 or the Dealer fluid.

mccoymail
12-20-2010, 09:09 AM
Thanks to all, I'll let you know how it goes!

mccoymail
12-20-2010, 10:52 AM
Hey guys, for anyone interested, it came off like a charm from the bottom after removing the fan blade. Now to warm up and put the new one in!! think I'll wait for a warmer day to replace the thermostat.
For the record, the reason I can't work in the garage is because the '70 Charger is currently torn to pieces in there.

Thanks again

07JeepXK
12-20-2010, 12:05 PM
Nice. So I take it you do have a mechanical fan on your Commander? When you mendioned that you removed the fan blade, did you just remove the four bolts holding it onto the clutch and drop the whole thing down as one unit or did you actually remove the entire mechanical fan assembly from the water pump?

Again, just make sure you use the correct coolant when you fill her back up!

mccoymail
12-20-2010, 12:50 PM
I removed the fan/clutch assembly, left the four bolts attached. Had to make a spanner wrench from old bar stock and a 1/4-20 bolt but it dropped right out. I took the pump out from the bottom also. Going to O'reillys to get some Zerex tonight and we'll give her a start tomorrow. I hope I don't get a leak.

Thanks again for all the help.

Mongo
12-21-2010, 07:59 AM
Zerex G-05, there are several versions of Zerex anti-Freeze, make sure you get the right one.

Don't know what the G stands for, it was designed by the Germans, but thats kinda dumb to use for a designation. 05 stands for the years its designed to last, 5 years.

07JeepXK
12-21-2010, 10:51 AM
I could be wrong, but I dont think the Zerex G-05 comes in a 50/50 mix. When you buy that coolant, you also need to buy distilled water and mix it 50/50 with the coolant prior to filling your vehicle. You can get distilled water for cheap from any grocery store. If you know approximately how much coolant you need, you can always pour the Zerex straight into the radiator, and then pour in distilled water right after that in equal portions. Its just easier to pre mix it. Also the Zerex is an orange color. Dont get bent out of shape over the color since its not that pinkish red like the oem coolant. Coolant is clear when its made, they just add a dye to the coolant to change the color.

BTW, most people just use normal water out of their hose in the radiator. Its not recommended by the dealer.

Mongo
12-21-2010, 11:05 AM
Actually the HOAT anti-freeze is specifically formulated to better deal with the minerals in hard water; BUT, I'm with you, why put any disolved minerals into your cooling system to potentially cause problems, just use distilled water that has the minerals removed.

If someone didn't know, distilled water is purified water that has all the dissolved minerals removed from it. Its the dissolved minerals in the water (good for humans to drink, bad for machinery) that comes out of solution and forms scale on your cooling system.

Other anti-freezes, as they wear out, those minerals can react with the anti-corrosion additives and cause the scale or other problems. To many people using tap water instead of distilled water, especially in Europe where they have hard water, made them decide to compensated for it with the HOAT formula.

mccoymail
12-22-2010, 02:24 AM
All worked fine after a 50 mile trip today. Had to get the darn coolant from the local Jeep dealer at $23/gallon because I could find a local shop with the Zerex. I probably spent that plus some driving around town.

Mongo
12-22-2010, 07:23 AM
NAPA, at least in my area, always has Zerex G-05, yes, its hit or miss at all the other Auto Stores in my area (Southern MD).

The Following is a long post about the differences in the Anti-Freezes on the Market: If you don't like Long Posts, well, ummm, DON'T READ IT.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________________

Judging from what I see on the Store Shelves, I'm surprised no one has problems yet from the Prestone "All Makes, All Models, Mixes with any Color Anti-Freeze", I'm shocked its still on the market; yet from what all the stores are stocking, it appears everyone is using it. Its just the latest Dex-Cool dyed a different color, and if you read the fine print on the bottle, it says you have to thoroughly flush your old Anti-Freeze before using it, which is the opposite of what it says on Bold Print on the Bottle. I think Prestone is just begging for a Class Action Law Suite.

I did a little internet research on Anti-Freeze a few years ago, it seems the best anti-freeze that protects vehicles the best is the good old fashioned Green Anti-Freeze (IAT) we've been using since the 60's. The only drawback is that it has to be changed every 2 years; and NO one was changing their anti-freeze when they should and then using hard tap water to mix with it, if they did, suffering the results of that neglect. So, all the manufacturers switched to long life anti-freeze, that does NOT protect as well, but last longer. (OAT) which is Dex-Cool is incompatible with other anti-freeze and a lot of seals used in older vehicles. (HOAT) Which is the Chrysler/Ford/Mercedes (Japanese have there own variant based on it), is compatible somewhat with other anti-freezes and all seals, it doesn't have the problems that Dex-Cool has and the pit falls of Dex-Cool.

Problem is, the manufacturers often tailor the design of their cooling system and water pumps for the anti-freeze they recommend, so there is an argument, that the best anti-freeze is always the anti-freeze recommended by the manufacturer.

BUT, if you going to switch to another Anti-Freeze, the best IMO (and other informed sources I have read) is to switch back to the good old fashioned grean (IAT) anti-freeze mixed with distilled water and just make sure to change it every 2 years. Zerex and Peak put "Original Green Formula" on their bottle of Anti-Freeze. Prestone doesn't make the original green anymore, and many generic or lesser brands of anti-freeze that say they are just basic anti-freeze, most people would assume are the original green anti-freeze, but they are NOT, they are likely a derivative of Dex-Cool, like Prestone is using now.

07JeepXK
12-22-2010, 10:26 AM
Hoat ftw!!!

Mongo
12-22-2010, 12:08 PM
Hoat ftw!!!
I'd agree, unless you know more than the engineers that designed your vehicle, sticking with the recommended anti-freeze is probably the best thing to do.

Now, if I had a GM vehicle with Dex-Cool, the horror stories I've heard first hand about that anti-freeze, I'd seriously consider flushing the cooling system and switching to HOAT or Original Green.

If the FCC bans HOAT Anti-Freeze (considering their latest actions, it wouldnt' surprise me), I'd switch to the Original Green in my Commander.

jcoulter
12-22-2010, 04:55 PM
Why would the Federal Communications Commission care about antifreeze? Aren't they busy screwing up net neutrality? :)

jcoulter
12-22-2010, 04:56 PM
I'd agree, unless you know more than the engineers that designed your vehicle, sticking with the recommended anti-freeze is probably the best thing to do.

Now, if I had a GM vehicle with Dex-Cool, the horror stories I've heard first hand about that anti-freeze, I'd seriously consider flushing the cooling system and switching to HOAT or Original Green.

If the FCC bans HOAT Anti-Freeze (considering their latest actions, it wouldnt' surprise me), I'd switch to the Original Green in my Commander.

Why would the Federal Communications Commission care about antifreeze? Aren't they busy screwing up net neutrality? :)

Mongo
12-22-2010, 05:09 PM
Why would the Federal Communications Commission care about antifreeze? Aren't they busy screwing up net neutrality? :)
Well, when common sense, the constitution, the congress and the courts all say the FCC does NOT have authority to regulate the Internet at their own discretion; BUT, they go and do it anyway, whats to stop them from regulating or banning anything they want?

hiawathalovejones@yahoo.c
04-10-2011, 05:35 PM
Why am i replacing the water pump twice less than 2 years. Ihave a 2007 jeep commander

jeep5253
04-10-2011, 08:47 PM
Why am i replacing the water pump twice less than 2 years. Ihave a 2007 jeep commander
You may be using the wrong type of coolant.

Mongo
04-11-2011, 08:21 AM
You may be using the wrong type of coolant.
That, our your used the wrong replacement part, cheapo rebuilds do fail much earlier and/or often, than quality new parts.

Your replacement pump might have been installed incorrectly.

Your drive belt may tensioned to tight, now that engines have spring loaded tensioners that happens much less, but its always possible you have a bad tensioner causing to much side load on your water pumps.

As well, you can rule out your the statistical anomally.