Jeepita
10-27-2007, 09:04 PM
I bought the Rusty's 2" lift kit months ago and just got around to installing it this weekend. I also bought Spidertrax 1.5" adaptors, the Jeep moulded mud gaurds and some 255/70R17 Firestone Destination A/T tires I'll put on when the stock ones are done.
At any rate, here's what I learned today. First off, the studs on the Rusty's front spacers were welded on all crooked (seriously poor workmanship, thankfully the flanges are made very well), I've heard others talk about oversizing the shock tower holes to compensate for said crooked studs. What I did whas remove the offending studs (peanut grinder), then went to the hardware store and bought 3" grade 5 bolts, and nuts. This ended up working very well, I put the 3" bolts thru from the strut side on the work bench, while doing this I spun nuts on as I assembled them, the nuts tighten the lower flange of the spacer to the strut flange. They were now straight and went right thru the shock tower holes with no troubles, since they are completely tight below, it doesn't require a second person with a crows foot underneath, just tighten from above. As far as I'm concerned, this lift kit should have come this way to start with, it would lower their production costs as well as making for a better product.
As some of the other guys have mentioned, you will need strut spring compressors to do this job, I rented them from Autozone, $40 refundable deposit. Another tool you'll need and likely don't have is a ball joint seperator, I bought a pitman arm puller that appeared to be the right dimensions(Performance Tool P/N W142) for about $12, it worked perfectly.
I'll report tomorrow after I get the rear done, I'm hoping it works out of the box!
At any rate, here's what I learned today. First off, the studs on the Rusty's front spacers were welded on all crooked (seriously poor workmanship, thankfully the flanges are made very well), I've heard others talk about oversizing the shock tower holes to compensate for said crooked studs. What I did whas remove the offending studs (peanut grinder), then went to the hardware store and bought 3" grade 5 bolts, and nuts. This ended up working very well, I put the 3" bolts thru from the strut side on the work bench, while doing this I spun nuts on as I assembled them, the nuts tighten the lower flange of the spacer to the strut flange. They were now straight and went right thru the shock tower holes with no troubles, since they are completely tight below, it doesn't require a second person with a crows foot underneath, just tighten from above. As far as I'm concerned, this lift kit should have come this way to start with, it would lower their production costs as well as making for a better product.
As some of the other guys have mentioned, you will need strut spring compressors to do this job, I rented them from Autozone, $40 refundable deposit. Another tool you'll need and likely don't have is a ball joint seperator, I bought a pitman arm puller that appeared to be the right dimensions(Performance Tool P/N W142) for about $12, it worked perfectly.
I'll report tomorrow after I get the rear done, I'm hoping it works out of the box!