Changing Spark Plugs - 4.7 Discussion

i don't know if anyone has written a write up on changing spark-plugs on the 4.7L commander. but since i'm pretty mechanically inclined and CHEAP i don't pay anyone to work on my vehicles.

Tools needed for the Job:

10mm socket
5/8" spark plug socket tool
short 3/8" extension
long 3/8" extension
3/8" socket driver
Flat head screw driver

Time needed: about an hour

Parts needed: 8 spark plugs of your choice.

My commander only has 26K on it. but since i bought it used i decided what the hell, i might as well change the plugs. they weren't in bad shape, but they were champion spark plugs and i really hate those.

i picked up 8 NGK V-Power spark plugs for $22. I have been using this brand in my vehicles for years.

i also noticed when i pulled my old spark plugs the gap was not right. they are supposed to be gapped a .044". my old plugs were gapped at .038".


Step 1.

remove the intake pipe and intake resonator. there are 3 clamps holding all the intake piping together use the flathead screw driver to loosen these. and there are 2 10mm bolts holding the resonator to the intake. unbolt and set somewhere out of the way.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03295.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03285.jpg

here are pictures of the 2 10mm nuts holding the resonator in place. also don't forget to unhook the air temp sensor the the passenger side of the motor. you can see it on the bottom picture.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03286.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03288.jpg

this is where the hose clamp is on the throttle body.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03287.jpg

this is what it looks like without the intake stuff on.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03289.jpg

Step 2.

there are 8 coils held in place with a 10mm nut. remove the 8 nuts with the 10mm socket and driver you may need the extensions for this, and put somewhere safe.

Step 3.

unhook the wires connected to each coil.

pictures for for steps 2-3

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03290.jpg

this is the coil there are 8 of these

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03291.jpg

Step 4.

remove the coil on the spark plug. i kept mine in order of where they came from. i'm not sure if it makes any difference or not. but i didn't want to find out the hard way. use the extension and 5/8" spark plug socket for this step

Step 5.

gap your spark plug to .044". remove the old spark plugs and install the new ones.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03294.jpg

for comparison. old plugs verses new plugs.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03292.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/DSC03293.jpg

Step 6.

reverse the process and enjoy.

well, i guess no one has anything to say.

i have been driving it with the new plugs. i must say i am very impressed with these NGK's. my mileage has gone from 16.5 mpg up to 19.5.

when i'm cruising at 70 i get between 20 and 22 now.

i also added a Trueflow air filter about 1 month ago.

the commander does not down shift as much on hills anymore. i'm very happy!

Do you know if the 3.7L V6 engine uses the same spark plugs as the V8?

Do you know anything about these plugs that NGK make? The Iridium plugs. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NGK&MfrPartNumber=6441&PartType=960&PTSet=A

I heard that they really make a huge difference.

I don't have the 4.7L, but do appreciate you taking the time to document this. I do plan on going with Iridium plugs when it's time to change, but it will be a while before that happens because I just went past 10,000 miles. Also, the Iridium plugs will be very expensive since I will need 16.

they said on the 4.7 you do not need to run platinum or irridium. its just a waste on that motor. i would imagine it would be the same with the 3.7L.

since the 5.7 is a higher compression motor i would imagine the more expensive plugs would be better.

Nice job on the write up. With the performance gains you recieved - Will that eventually go away with the wear of the plugs or is that a gain because of better quality and proper gap?

Excellent writ eup. I am surprised at the MPG improvement if with the gap tolerance difference. Are the new plugs a bit hotter or did you stay the same? Your old plugs didn't look too bad.

better brand of plugs.

i think they are the same temp plugs. i just got replacements.

i hate champion plugs. i think they are crap.. i'm a engine performance guy. i've been running NGK for years in my japanese engines. i thought i'd try them in the jeep. them made a big difference. i'm not sure if the gap makes a big difference. but, there is a bigger spark now. so the fuel is burning more efficiently.

the engine has much more power. i got the jeep up to 105 passing cars the other day. i couldn't believe i was going that fast. it seems to have a lot better power.

i can't wait to work on the exhaust!

Hey everyone, the 4.7 is different from the Hemi, you need 16 plugs on the Hemi plus it is torque specific (13 ftlbs). So you need wrench. I put in th champion iridiums (9043) and love 'em! I wold recommend signing up fo alldatadiy.com it is the best site for everything you need to know about your vehicle ad how to maintain it. Here is the info from all data:
Notes
Spark Plug

Gap
Spark Plug Gap 1.14 mm (0.045 in.)

Torque
Spark Plug Torque 18 Nm (+/- 3) 13 lb. ft (+/- 2)

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u277/wncurley214/128563306.gif


Removal and Installation

SPARK PLUG

REMOVAL
Each individual spark plug is located under each ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be removed to gain access to each spark plug.


Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle body.
Prior to removing ignition coil, spray compressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber.
Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also check condition of ignition coil O-ring and replace as necessary.
Inspect spark plug condition.
INSTALLATION

NOTE: The 4.7L is equipped with copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, pre-ignition will result.

Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged.

Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque. Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain insulator.



Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading.
Tighten spark plugs to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.) . 3.7L & 4.7L.
The 5.7L is equipped with torque critical design spark plugs. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. torque. Tighten spark plugs to 18 N.m (13 ft.lbs) . NOTE: 5.7L does not use an o-ring
Before installing ignition coil(s), check condition of coil O-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to coil O-ring.
Install ignition coil(s).

i never use a torque wrench. i do it by feel. i go till its hand tight and then turn about 1/4 turn more. i've never had a problem with that method. i have never found a torque wrench that works really good at such a low reading.

mind you i have been working on my cars for about 15 years now.

i tried to use a torgue wrench to tighten the bolts on a new clutch kit i was installing on my toyota supra motor. i ended up stripping the threads on one bolt. it was supposed to be torqued to 20#.

Craftsmen make a really good wrench, it is like $99 but keep an eye out for sales. Remember not everyone in this forum has your touch after 15 years of working on cars. Thats a good amount of experience and from the looks of it on here a lot of us haven't been working on cars that long.

Craftsmen make a really good wrench, it is like $99 but keep an eye out for sales. Remember not everyone in this forum has your touch after 15 years of working on cars. Thats a good amount of experience and from the looks of it on here a lot of us haven't been working on cars that long.

You got that right! I envy how good some of you guys are - I am just trying to learn from you... I may be looking into some new plugs for my 3.7 with they way you guys are talking up the performance. Thanks!

And whats the hype with these iridium plugs, are they just hotter?

Personally, I don't think you'll find a better plug for a mopar engine than a Champion. The NGK are good plugs, but no better in a Mopar than the cheapy Champions. Been bleeding Mopar for 30+ years, Champion work the best in them.

Has anyone tried the NGK G-power platinum plugs ZFR6FGP. They cost and average of .20-.40 more than the V-power plugs.

Dont forget Dilectric grease and Anti seaze (<--spelling?) Grease too.

You got that right! I envy how good some of you guys are - I am just trying to learn from you... I may be looking into some new plugs for my 3.7 with they way you guys are talking up the performance. Thanks!

And whats the hype with these iridium plugs, are they just hotter?

I would go for this one...Pulstar, quite expensive, but probably worth the performance and fuel economy improvement.

http://www.pulstarplug.com/index.html

Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but what happened to the pictures?

I am thinking about changing my spark plugs to the NGK laser platinum.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/partcloseup.asp?stocknumber=3271&partnumber=PZFR6F-11 *

4.7commaner, the pics are not there any more !!!

Job well done and thanks for these valuable info. I will use it once the warranty ends. :)

check out my photobucket account.

http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/miniyota/

4.7commaner, the pics are not there any more !!!

Job well done and thanks for these valuable info. I will use it once the warranty ends. :)

You'll be required to change the plugs before the end of warranty. No reason to spend a couple hundred when you can get by for $16 doing it yourself.

Hi 4.7 Commander,
Just want to say thanks and I have just replaced the plugs on mine using your instructions and photos. I was able to replaced the plugs uneventfully.

There are couple things do come into my mind:

1. I have changed plugs in all of my cars but this is most involving(except 93 Mazda RX7 that is totally impossible). The location of the far left one is PAIN to replaced because of the tight space and it took me a good 15 minutes to get that one out. Totally, it took me a bit more than 1.5 hours.

2. When I look at the old champion plugs, two of their center are totally shot and all of them are in very bad shape (30K miles). I am now a bit regret to get the NGK V-power because they probably need to be replaced again in another 20-25K miles. They only cost me $18 but I think I should go for the NGK Iridium ($60) since they suppose to last longer. I used NGK Iridium for my last BWM X5 and both the power and smoothness of the X5 were greatly improved. I am definitely not looking forward to do the work all over again.

3. Other than the one plug that is farest left, I did not follow step 3 to unwire the coil. (for the far left one, you must unwire the coil or there is not enough space to yank the coil out) I did removed all the 10mm nuts together as instruction.

4. I have used the anti-seize for the new plugs since I probably will change the plugs again. The old plugs are pretty tighted and need some good yanking to get them out.

Again, thanks "Commander 4.7" for the instructions and they definitely help the great deal.

I laughed at the recommendation to change the plugs every 30K, but I changed mine ON MY 4.7L yesterday with 48K miles and they were SPENT. Color was good (tan) but the electrodes were rounded and worn, and the gap was huge. Guess I'll stick with the 30K interval from now on.

Any body out there using the NGK laser platinum?

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/laser_platinum.asp

4.7 need to repost your step by step pics, you must have moved them after the original post.

i'll see if i can find the pictures. i've been lazy and busy.

Well i tackled the spark plugs today and swapped them out with the NGK V-Power recommended by 4.7Commander. It was a VERY easy job, however make sure your engine is cold when you do it. It tends to be very HOT after driving for a few minutes prior on a 90 degree day. I didnt run into any problems but the passenger side rear plug was sort of a pain to get to.

When i pulled the stock Champion plugs i checked the gap and the were clearly set at .45 and there is a sticker under the hood that says they should be at .40 My question is why would they come from the factory gapped wrong and not at .40 like they should be. Anyways it seems to idle smoother, I will let you know how the MPG are affected.

The reason the gap was wrong is because the electrode on the plug deteriorates over time from the spark burning it away. I changed mine yesterday and noticed the same thing. Just an a note to anyone changing them in the future don't use champion plugs. They are notorious for falure and excessive fatigue.

What is the mileage now ? ,,, any pics of the old spark plugs to see how they look.

I just hit 21,000 miles today. The spark plugs actually didnt look all that bad but i did notice the wear in the electrode as stated above. I just didnt think that would have caused the difference in the gap. It totally makes sense though.

Thanks for hi-jacking my thread. Anyways I have not put enough miles on it yet to see how the MPG's are but it deffinately seems like it starts smoother and idles better!

I trust the NGK plugs because I put them in almost everthing I fix at work. We also use Bosch so I put a set of platinum 2's in the XK this weekend. I will be interested to see if one is much better than the other.

after a couple days of driving i've found that by changing from the crappy old chamions to the new bosch 2's i've gained about 1.5mpg average.

I have not drove around much in the past few days but it looks like im sitting at possibly 1 mpg over before. Its been city driving and have not made it on the highway yet.

What tools did you need? I just picked up some Bosch 2's as well. I think I read it's 10mm to get the post off, and 5/8 plug socket with extension. Are these correct?

That and a flat blade screw driver to take of the intake. Its really easy. If you can pump gas in your Commander you can change the spark plugs!

the passenger side rear plug was bit tough to get out because it is under where the wipers are. Have plenty of extensions to make different lengths on hand. I had to go from no extension to a really long extension and everything in between.

Plugs are easy to replace, just wanted to know the proper tools.

Is everything on the Commander metric? That seems to be the case, aside from the spark plug socket, but thats just how those go...

...I have been thinking about bringing my metric set out here to Philly so I have them when I need them.

Supposedly it is metric, but every time I use a metric socket or wrench it seems loose. But if you go down the next size its way to small.

Maybe a will test fit a few and see.

What was the price of a set of Bosch Platinum 2's for the 4.7?

10mm wrench
5/8" spark plug romover
flat blade screw driver

What was the price of a set of Bosch Platinum 2's for the 4.7?

They weren't too bad, either an arm OR a leg... not both. The truth is that compared to the cost of a cheapo plug they are worth it in the fuel savings. I am currently at an average of 2mpg better than before the change.

Bosch 2 = $5 each

I am going to tackle this project this weekend, but am still wondering if I should try the NGK v-power or the Bosch 2. Wouldn't you have to still replace the NGKs every 30k due to being copper. The Bosch's are platinum, correct? Thanks for all of the great info so far.

Well after a few weeks of having the plugs installed i have to say that the gas mileage is about the same as before. However i am still glad that i got rid of the Champions.

No spark plug lasts forever, no matter what its made of. I changed mine at the 27,000 mile mark and I will change them in another 30K. I have noticed that even when I really "HOT ROD" around i'm still getting 1.5mpg better than before the swap. normal driving is about 2mpg gain.

did you change you pcv valve? where is it? Not where the book said it was supposed to be, on the oil fill tube........

The PCV is usually attached to the intake by a tube, based on what i've seen the valve is somewhere on the back of the engine. Out of sight and definatly out of mind.

but- have you seen it?

I've never seen it but i've heard it exists.

After reading some threads about changing the crap OEM spark plugs I got excited to upgrade the spark plugs :cool: , so I made some searching and found several types and brands and got lost between them :confused:

So I would appreciate your suggestions and recommendation for the best spark plugs, for me the performance comes first and price is second as I have to order the plugs from US, so I want to give it one shot and good one :)

Shall I go for Iridium or Platinum?
What is the best brand?

What do you think about Bosch Platinum+4 spark plugs? and experience?
http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyres/3A146714-4398-4F63-897F-B83F2E0A379E/0/Plat4_540.jpg


also what is the best NGK spark plugs type? IX iridium or Double Platinum?

Hi Ahmed,

I.ve had great results with iridium or platinum.
For example, my 96 Blazer was made with platinum plugs and the recommended change interval was 100k miles.
I replaced them at about 110k miles, and frankly, they looked good enouph to re-install. I replaced them with the same plug and again replaced those at 221k.
They too, looked flawless.
The truck now has 235k miles.
The iridium plugs are found factory installed in some of the smaller, high R.P.M. 4 cyl engines that also are on a 100k service interval.
That being said, I would be reasonably confident saying either material will provide satisfactory long term results.
The original plugs in your Jeep are the mallable iron firing tip type that have been around forever it seems like. I was surprised to see Chrysler still using such a old tech. component.
And, just like the old days, they seem to be just about done after 10k miles.
Usually, worn plugs will show as a marked decrease in performance and mileage and, as others have noted, the degredation was so slow that upon plug replacement the difference could be felt and seen as better mileage, idle quality, etc.
Old mechanics [I am one] generally found Chrysler worked best with Champion or Autolite plugs, G.M. always worked best with A.C. and Fords didn't like anything except Autolite.
So, when plug change time comes [probably I'm due now too] for me, I'll probably try to find Autolite Platinum. I believe the domestic plug makers usually get the heat ranges the engine requires closer on domestic engines.

My thoughts,
......Rob

I know there are some people in here that are using the platinum spark plugs and they are ok, when it was time for me to replace them I first got NGKs platinum ($80), but the XK didn't seem to like them, it didn't fell right, so I replaced them with the NGKs V power, and they work so much better, sure, they have to be replace every 30k miles, but is so easy to do that is not a big deal for me.

Here is a note from the service manual, this is another reason I went back to copper spark plugs and no platinum: NOTE: The 4.7L is equipped with copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, pre-ignition will result.

Old mechanics [I am one] generally found Chrysler worked best with Champion... I've always heard that Chrysler products work best with Champions, too.

I think that may be a good way of saying the engine is very heat range sesitive.
I can't imagine the material the plug is constructed of would create a tendency to pre-ignite.
Lastly, the manufacturer has certified the engine with this plug and by law, must recommend it to hold certification.
Again, my opinion,
......Rob

for me, I'll probably try to find Autolite Platinum. I believe the domestic plug makers usually get the heat ranges the engine requires closer on domestic engines.

My thoughts,
......Rob

Thanks Rob for you informative answer as always, :)

What about Autolite XP Xtreme Performance plugs? they are Iridium ones.

I know there are some people in here that are using the platinum spark plugs and they are ok, when it was time for me to replace them I first got NGKs platinum ($80), but the XK didn't seem to like them, it didn't fell right, so I replaced them with the NGKs V power, and they work so much better, sure, they have to be replace every 30k miles, but is so easy to do that is not a big deal for me.

Here is a note from the service manual, this is another reason I went back to copper spark plugs and no platinum: NOTE: The 4.7L is equipped with copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, pre-ignition will result.


That sounds strange :icon_confused: as I read in some other threads that the platinum plugs work fine!

how is it like that it didn't feel right in your case?

Hi Ahmed,
I believe that plug should be a good choice. I am stopping by my dealer today [friend is parts mngr.].
We're going to dig around a bit to see if Chrysler lists a platinum upgrade.
I'll let you all know my findings this afternoon.

.......Rob

That sounds strange :icon_confused: as I read in some other threads that the platinum plugs work fine!

how is it like that it didn't feel right in your case?

Lost of power, shaky at idle, I drove with them on for a week and took them off, I ended up using the V-power and they do great. At least that was my case, like I said, I know there is at least one more person running platinum spark plugs and is happy with them, I won't use them in the XK again.

Hi all,
Well, I was nosing through parts at Jeep dealer and there is no Platinum or Iridium upgrade that is mentioned, so............
Off to sparkplugs.com [a Champion Direct source] to peruse their catalogue.

Chrysler O.E. part # SP [Spark Plug, get it?] SP----- RC12MCC4, thats a standard copper core steel tipped plug. Retails around $2.00. An example of the way it used to be, Old Tech. Still works, wears like they always did.
If you wanted a standard plug you just drop the SP from the part #.
First upgrade- Champion # 3318 Platinum- Portrayed as a long life plug
Second upgrade- Champion #7318 Double Platinum- even longer life. I would consider this a 100k plug. Its construction is the same as the 100k A.C.'s I mentioned in an earlier post.
Final upgrade- Champion # 9202 Iridium. I would expect simalar service life to a double platinum, but this sounds more like a plug one would use in a very high r.p.m. engine to reduce the potential of spark blow-out.
Probably a good plug to boast about if you do that kind of thing.

As far as ROMEO's bad experience, I can't imagine anything related to plug material or construction that could be responsible for his bad experience, unless a plug had a fractured porcelin due to shipping mis-handling. I think it would throw mis-fire codes or something.

I am not fond of multi ground plugs. The spark will follow the path of least resistance and only go to one of the 2 or 4 ground straps and the gap is non-adjustable. I've never met an engineer that said otherwise. I kinda consider it a advertising ploy to make one visualize the spark going 4 ways. It will not.

OK, that being said, my $.02, I'd recommend staying with Champion only because they did the heat range development for this subject engine [ 4.7 ].
I believe the most stable, long life plug will be the 7318, Double Platinum.
After seeing the photos of some removed plugs and noting the firing tip no longer had a sharp cutoff, I would say replacement would be wise around 10 to 15k miles.
Even if you replace with the O.E. plug, a performance inprovement would be noted.
It just wont stay crisp that long.

Hope I helped a bit,
....Rob

i decided to stick some Bosch platinums in my engine last week. i did so, because i've put 20K miles on it since last october. i do a lot of driving so i don't want to have to change them for awhile. the NGK's were still alright. no noticeable wear.

i noticed no gain in power. i changed my transmission and transfer case fluids and noticed much smoother shifting.

i decided to stick some Bosch platinums in my engine last week. i did so, because i've put 20K miles on it since last october. i do a lot of driving so i don't want to have to change them for awhile. the NGK's were still alright. no noticeable wear.

i noticed no gain in power. i changed my transmission and transfer case fluids and noticed much smoother shifting.

Did you get the normal Bosch platinum plugs or those +2 and +4 ?

My 3.7 came with NGK V power plugs. I might just upgrade to the double platinum for a longer lasting plug next time.

http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showpost.php?p=60683&postcount=13

i just put the single electrode in. you are wasting your money on anything else.

I used to work for Honeywell at the Autolite plant in Fostoria OH, and I had the Design Engineers look at all of the plugs for me, and they still told me the Autolite XP was the best plug to put in my Jeep, followed by the NGK high dollar plug. Autolite is the only company to make iridium and double plat in one plug. Better buy them soon though...the plant is moving a large amount of production to MEXICO and it's only a matter of time before that line goes as well.

I use Bosch platinum +4 plugs. I see smoother idle and smoother acceleration...(so far).

I just put the NGK Iridiums in last week and right away I found a gain in power and increased fuel mileage. Not sure if it actually gained power, but it is definately running smoother and the throtle is much more responsive. The factory installed Champions were brown and seemed to be running too hot for the plugs. There was signs of the plugs starting to seemingly break down. By this I mean, the plugs seemed to be weakening... if that makes sense. It almost seemed as though the metal was falling off all around the flat surface of the electrode.

Long story short... the NGK Iridiums Rock!

Just read this from the 2008 owners manual -

NOTE: ** Vehicles built with the 4.7L engine are
equipped with sixteen spark plugs, one set is located on
the top of the engine under the coils and the second set is
located on the side of the engine.
The spark plugs located under the coils are a standard
plug and must be change every 30,000 miles (50 000 km)
The spark plugs located on the side of the engine are a
premium plug and must be changed every 102,000 miles
(170 000 km).

Curious is this the same for all 4.7's? What are the extra 8 for?

The sixteen plugs are in the new 4.7L engine started in 2008, which was one of the reasons why the horse power jumped from 235 to 305 !

But I wonder why there two types of plugs !! why they are not all premium?

i think the platinum stays hotter and causes premature ignition. 8 for exhaust and 8 for intake.

Yep. The extra 8 are for exhaust gas burning to clean up the emissions. The power gains came from a redesign of the heads and exhaust manifolds. The second 8 are premium because its (most likely) a PITA to change them, and they're not part of the primary combustion process.

Maybe they are for the after-burners? That would explain the added horse power. LOL

I used E3's al theway around and have no problems or will I?

So, Autolite's, Champion's, or NGK's?? What's the Verdict, I'm going to buy some tomorrow...

So, Autolite's, Champion's, or NGK's?? What's the Verdict, I'm going to buy some tomorrow...


NGK Iridium"s

I put some in a couple of weeks ago, and am very happy with them. The throttle responce definitly improved. I would not put Champions, and or Autolite's in.

Hey guys, I recently purchased a silver 06 4.7v8 Limited with the brown saddle leather. Im loving it so far. I started changing the spark plugs tonight for the 30,000 mile maintenance. The only one i need help with is the far back left coil. The transmission level checker is in the way of me pulling it out. I searched the forum and didnt really find any answers to resolve my problem. Any help is greatly appreciated. I promise that i will post pics soon! -Firehawk45cal

Here you go. http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5552

You can always ask Get Lost.

yeah but the transmission dipstick tube blocks the back left coil from being able to come straight out. I need to know how to get that one out, please.

I have the 3.7 V6 but I have to assume there is some sort of a bolt or nut that keeps the dipstick tube steady near the top of the tube.

Just a guess though. I hope you get it figured out.

John

I just snaked the coil out. I also disconnected the wiring harness from the coil, to help.

I decided to go with E3's, and I'm sold! I just couldn't spend 90.00 on plugs, so I spent 48 and it was well worth it! did over 250 miles worth of driving fri-sat., up/downhill (at 65+!), in city driving, and passed a bunch of people and the on board mileage calc. had a low reading of 16.9 and a high of 18.9! couldn't believe it! I was getting in the mid 14's to mid 15's before. The Jeep also feels more responsive too. This was a well needed upgrade.

Glad to hear it. I am looking to do the same but been real lazy since I lack a garage and the willingness to find myself at the Auto craft shop.

I don't have a garage either, I just covered up my TB with a clean rag. It took me a total of 2 hrs. that's including the 17 mile round trip to Checker!

I decided to go with E3's, and I'm sold! I just couldn't spend 90.00 on plugs, so I spent 48 and it was well worth it! did over 250 miles worth of driving fri-sat., up/downhill (at 65+!), in city driving, and passed a bunch of people and the on board mileage calc. had a low reading of 16.9 and a high of 18.9! couldn't believe it! I was getting in the mid 14's to mid 15's before. The Jeep also feels more responsive too. This was a well needed upgrade.

What's an E-3?

I changed out the original cheapions at 10K miles with NGK V Powers, have been very happy with them. Will pull them at 30K and see how they have held up. If they look as bad as the original plugs, I will replace them with either a double platinum or the iridium. On a fluke sale (.99 each) I put in Bosch Platinums, and they were terrible, threw a CEL, and the motor felt sluggish. Pulled them out and put in the NGK's. The 4.7 seems really rough on plugs.

yeah but the transmission dipstick tube blocks the back left coil from being able to come straight out. I need to know how to get that one out, please.

Like the rest of us..... slowly....carefully...... w-i-g-g-l-e :orangehat:

What's an E-3?

I changed out the original cheapions at 10K miles with NGK V Powers, have been very happy with them. Will pull them at 30K and see how they have held up. If they look as bad as the original plugs, I will replace them with either a double platinum or the iridium. On a fluke sale (.99 each) I put in Bosch Platinums, and they were terrible, threw a CEL, and the motor felt sluggish. Pulled them out and put in the NGK's. The 4.7 seems really rough on plugs.
The E3 is a brand of spark plug, bottom line is they work! here's the link:

http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/technology.htm

I had a bit of a problem with it too, I just moved the dipstick. It's hard to do:icon_redface:, you might think it's gonna bend or worse...break, but it won't! just push it up and to the left a bit til' you can get that boot out of there!!

Thanks guys! I had to flex that trans tube a good bit, but i finally got it out and replaced the last plug. She runs great! I was afraid that I might break the tube but all went well. Man, all they had to do was reposition that tube when they designed the engine and there wouldnt have been any clearance problems. Oh well, now i know what i have to do for next time.

They design everything like that these days so that so you'd say I can't get this done, I'm gonna have to spend 300.00 and take it to the dealer to have them mess with it!!

Im opting for the Bosch Platinum +4. Canadian tire has them at $17.90/pair (CAD) and they are priced the same as the platinum plus... hopfully grab them soon here and then ill post up my experience with them

Guys, is the only dieeference between Champion and the more expensive ones the length of time they LAST, or do you actually get better performance (throttle) and gas milage with the Autolite/NGK/E3's??
Thanks

Also, is there a particular part number for ea. of these 3-4 plugs mentioned or do I just tell them for what vehicle it is for? I have the 4.7.

I used to work for Honeywell at the Autolite plant in Fostoria OH, and I had the Design Engineers look at all of the plugs for me, and they still told me the Autolite XP was the best plug to put in my Jeep, followed by the NGK high dollar plug. Autolite is the only company to make iridium and double plat in one plug. Better buy them soon though...the plant is moving a large amount of production to MEXICO and it's only a matter of time before that line goes as well.

I just pulled this up from Auto Zone. I see where it has the xp iridium listed and then a little lower is has the double platinum listed separately. I think I am missing something....is the xp iridium, double platinum???
Thanks

Guys, is the only dieeference between Champion and the more expensive ones the length of time they LAST, or do you actually get better performance (throttle) and gas milage with the Autolite/NGK/E3's??
Thanks

Also, is there a particular part number for ea. of these 3-4 plugs mentioned or do I just tell them for what vehicle it is for? I have the 4.7.

The platinum's should last longer between changes. I put NGK platinum's in my 4.7L and did notice a little better throttle responce.

Hi all,
Well, I was nosing through parts at Jeep dealer and there is no Platinum or Iridium upgrade that is mentioned, so............
Off to sparkplugs.com [a Champion Direct source] to peruse their catalogue.

Chrysler O.E. part # SP [Spark Plug, get it?] SP----- RC12MCC4, thats a standard copper core steel tipped plug. Retails around $2.00. An example of the way it used to be, Old Tech. Still works, wears like they always did.
If you wanted a standard plug you just drop the SP from the part #.
First upgrade- Champion # 3318 Platinum- Portrayed as a long life plug
Second upgrade- Champion #7318 Double Platinum- even longer life. I would consider this a 100k plug. Its construction is the same as the 100k A.C.'s I mentioned in an earlier post.
Final upgrade- Champion # 9202 Iridium. I would expect simalar service life to a double platinum, but this sounds more like a plug one would use in a very high r.p.m. engine to reduce the potential of spark blow-out.
Probably a good plug to boast about if you do that kind of thing.

As far as ROMEO's bad experience, I can't imagine anything related to plug material or construction that could be responsible for his bad experience, unless a plug had a fractured porcelin due to shipping mis-handling. I think it would throw mis-fire codes or something.

I am not fond of multi ground plugs. The spark will follow the path of least resistance and only go to one of the 2 or 4 ground straps and the gap is non-adjustable. I've never met an engineer that said otherwise. I kinda consider it a advertising ploy to make one visualize the spark going 4 ways. It will not.

OK, that being said, my $.02, I'd recommend staying with Champion only because they did the heat range development for this subject engine [ 4.7 ].
I believe the most stable, long life plug will be the 7318, Double Platinum.
After seeing the photos of some removed plugs and noting the firing tip no longer had a sharp cutoff, I would say replacement would be wise around 10 to 15k miles.
Even if you replace with the O.E. plug, a performance inprovement would be noted.
It just wont stay crisp that long.

Hope I helped a bit,
....Rob

Thanks Rob. I had been reading all day that this person had a problem with this plug and that plug etc., so I went out and bought the stocks because everyone said the champions always work fine. Now you have me confused a little..so I CAN use ANY of those CHAMPION upgrades you mentioned with no worries at all? I thought others were having problems BECAUSE the plugs were platinum, iridium, etc. So because it's Champion, I would have absolutely no POSSIBILITY of a problem with the double plat's (Champion brand)?
Oh, one more thing....the guy at O'reily said they all come with the correct gap...is this true? Where should they be gapped?

The platinum's should last longer between changes. I put NGK platinum's in my 4.7L and did notice a little better throttle responce.
Thanks. I appreciate that. My throttle response blows, lol. I have around 27.5K and I'm guessing the previous owner hadn't ever changed them out. Being that the interval is 30 K, I'm betting the plugs are shot. I am not very mechanically inclined, to say the least....but I noticed no wires. I belive they are coils? Do I need to change them WITH the plugs?

You don't replace the coils, when you change the plugs. Their is a nut on a stud that secures the coils down. Also get a little tube of diealectric gease and put a dab on the coil, befor you put it back down onto the plug. The last coil on the passenger side is a little tricky to snake out, but it comes out. take your time and don't break a coil. Theirs a tread somewhere of this forum with step by step procedure, for changing the 4.7L plugs.

Get NGK"s, their about the best. Bosch's are notorius for having problems. i pulled out my original's at 22,00 mi, and they where worn down. And this has always been my experiance with Champions, even when I use to wrench at dealers.

You don't replace the coils, when you change the plugs. Their is a nut on a stud that secures the coils down. Also get a little tube of diealectric gease and put a dab on the coil, befor you put it back down onto the plug. The last coil on the passenger side is a little tricky to snake out, but it comes out. take your time and don't break a coil. Theirs a tread somewhere of this forum with step by step procedure, for changing the 4.7L plugs.

Get NGK"s, their about the best. Bosch's are notorius for having problems. i pulled out my original's at 22,00 mi, and they where worn down. And this has always been my experiance with Champions, even when I use to wrench at dealers.
Thanks. So NGK double platinum? Is that what I ask for? Do you know the part number offhand?

I just put in the regular Platinum's ZFR6FGP , their around the $3 to $4 per plug range. The double platinum's are PZFR6F-11, which are $12+. The next up from the regular Platinum, is Iridium ZFR6FIX-11, which would be a good choice, they are $7+, per plug. I bought mine at Rock Auto.com, they had the best prices, and if you google Rock Auto discount code, you can usually find a code for an additional 5% to 10% off.

Ok. I did the deed and replaced the plugs with the stock Champions at the dealer. I noticed a LITTLE better throttle and a smoother idle, but my avg. MPG didn't change a bit. It still reads 12.9-13.2. Could my fuel filter be clogged or something? I suppose that is next on my hit list. I will get a CAI in a couple months; hope that helps out a tad as well.

GET THE E3'S!! They work wonders! since I've put them in about 1 1/2 months ago now and about 3,000 miles later, I've been getting no less than 15MPG and a high of 19.8 MPG!!

GET THE E3'S!! They work wonders! since I've put them in about 1 1/2 months ago now and about 3,000 miles later, I've been getting no less than 15MPG and a high of 19.8 MPG!!

Too late, lol. But I do have another question. How long do I have to drive before the readout tells me if my milage has improved or whatever? I only drove home from the dealership which is only around 5 miles. Is that enough distance for it to re-calculate?

your computer will show better mileage almost instantly after you reset it. I would say in order to get the most accurate reading that a 40-50 mile drive with the cruise on should do the trick!

your computer will show better mileage almost instantly after you reset it. I would say in order to get the most accurate reading that a 40-50 mile drive with the cruise on should do the trick!

Thanks. I will take a drive to Galveston and back, then. You say to reset the computer. Umm, just hit the reset button while the avg. mpg display is showing?

Yes, hit the reset button while the current mpg is showing. After you hit the reset button, it will turn to zero for a short time. The computer seems very accurate compared to real world mpg. I can't believe you are getting 12-13 mpg. There must be something wrong. I usually get around 17 in the city, but I have the 3.7. I hope you get better gas mileage.

Yes, hit the reset button while the current mpg is showing. After you hit the reset button, it will turn to zero for a short time. The computer seems very accurate compared to real world mpg. I can't believe you are getting 12-13 mpg. There must be something wrong. I usually get around 17 in the city, but I have the 3.7. I hope you get better gas mileage.
Yes, I will do just that! Thanks! And yes, I don't know what the problem could be. It idles smooth as hell, shifts smooth, everything sounds/seems fine. I will try what you guys said about resetting the comp. and report back, lol.

Ok, so I took a short trip--around 35 miles round trip. I set the cruise control at 65 for the first half (17 miles or so) and by the time I got to around mile 16 it had leveled out at just about 17-17.1 On the way back I set the c.c. at 60 for 8 miles and it leveled off at 17.2-17.3 On the last 8 miles or so until I got home I set the c.c. at 70mph and I STILL stayed at pretty much 17.1 the whole time!!! I haven't had time obviously to do any city driving but I am extremely happy at the increase.
SIDE NOTE: I got the plugs changed today to the OEM ones and on my way out to do the test drive for mpg increase I stopped at the O'riely Autoparts store and got the drop-in K&N filter, then proceeded on my test run. I WAS averaging 12.9-13.2 BEFORE THE PLUGS AND FILTER.
So basically my mpg increased by roughly 4 MPG AFTER CHANGING THE PLUGS AND DROPPING IN THE K&N!
I was so elated when I got out of my truck at home I nearly broke into the Pee Wee Herman dance, (the one with the big wooden shoes on)but ultimately decided against it when I observed the presence of my neighbors outside.

I notice a difference between 2 gas stations. I get more mpg from one than another. I think one of them is 10% enthanol. i am going to check on this tomorrow.

I notice a difference between 2 gas stations. I get more mpg from one than another. I think one of them is 10% enthanol. i am going to check on this tomorrow.
Yes, please do and let me know. OH------I want to let you guys know that before I read up on things here, etc. that I thought I was getting shi-otty mpg due to bad gas, right? So in my infinite wisdom I filled up with 93 octane thinking that would help. Well, I can't remember whether or not it was this thread or another, but someone informed me that 93 octane (or any grade higher than 87) could LESSEN my mpg!!! SO---I got this awesome increase after the new plugs and the drop in K&N, WITH the 93 octane in the tank! I will let you guys know after I refill with regular, and gain, please let me know about the gas situation you noticed.
Thanks again.

Here are some plugs for the 4.7l

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Copper Core; Part Number: 5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Platinum Part Number: AP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Double Platinum; Part Number: APP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance Part Number: XP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance Part No.41806

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5F-11 Part No.2262

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5FIX-11 Part No.2477

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. PZFR5F-11 Part No.4363

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR6F-11G Part No.6987

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5FGP Part No.7098

NGK Laser Platinum Spark Plug : Flex Fuel Part No.PZFR5F11

NGK V-Power Spark Plug: Flex Fuel Part No.ZFR5F11

NGK G-Power Single Platinum Plug: Flex Fuel Part No.ZFR5FGP

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug Part No.ZFR5FIX11

NGK V-Power Spark Plug Part No.ZFR6F11G

E3 Spark Plug Diamond Fire Spark Plug: Part No. E356

Champion Spark Plug: Platinum Power;Part No.3318

Stock.....Champion Spark Plug: RC12MCC4 Copper Part No.439 Stock.....

Champion Spark Plug: Double Platinum; Part No.7318

Champion Iridium Spark Plug Part No.9202

Motorcraft Spark Plug Part No.SP445

Pulstar Pulse Spark Plug Part No.BE1

Got more? add to the list.

If you have one of the plugs listed below, please PM me with whcih you have and give me a 1-5 rating on it. If you dont have one, PM me anyway and tell me what you do have and rate it 1 -5.

1 is the worst and 5 is the best.......

I will post results....

Thanks

Just cleared my PMs

And for those waiting......I am sending Guido to my printer to find out why i dont have decals yet...........

I notice a difference between 2 gas stations. I get more mpg from one than another. I think one of them is 10% enthanol. i am going to check on this tomorrow.
Cico, did you check out those gas stations today? I hit the road again today and my mpg's shot up to 21!!! Gotta love new plugs, lol! (and a drop-in K&N)

Danny,

I would steer clear of the K & N's, they aren't that good, google it. You'll find alot of info as to they don't filter that great. I have peronally had a vehicle with one and the air box after they filter was lined with fine dust. I would either look at a company called Green Filters, or get a good aftermarket replacement, such as a Purolator.

So, I have been reading this for the last few days. Do we have a consensus on the best plugs yet??

Danny,

I would steer clear of the K & N's, they aren't that good, google it. You'll find alot of info as to they don't filter that great. I have peronally had a vehicle with one and the air box after they filter was lined with fine dust. I would either look at a company called Green Filters, or get a good aftermarket replacement, such as a Purolator.

Sounds good. Do you think O'reilly will have a problem with me returning it? I have the receipt, but what shall I say is the problem? It's been 2 days. And as far as "regular" filters go....you think Purolator is the best? I am looking into a CAI, but that will be a couple-few months away. What's your opinion on the Mackest-Daddiest CAI?:orangehat:

So, I have been reading this for the last few days. Do we have a consensus on the best plugs yet??
Well, I has them replaced with the good-ole faithful stock Champions, and my milage went through the roof. I suppose my old ones were just THAT worn.

I have 1 reply so far as to plugs/rating.

Only 1. So therefore, the spreadsheet of plugs and rating wont work...

Sounds good. Do you think O'reilly will have a problem with me returning it? I have the receipt, but what shall I say is the problem? It's been 2 days. And as far as "regular" filters go....you think Purolator is the best? I am looking into a CAI, but that will be a couple-few months away. What's your opinion on the Mackest-Daddiest CAI?:orangehat:

The AFE, CAI dry filter is supose to be good. If you use the oiled version, you should clean your throttle body after installing and cleaning, after about a week of driving. Some of the oil willcoat the inside of the trhrottle body and can cause drivability issues. My F250, will start spark knocking. And 4.7L are known for dirty throtttle body issues.

The AFE, CAI dry filter is supose to be good. If you use the oiled version, you should clean your throttle body after installing and cleaning, after about a week of driving. Some of the oil willcoat the inside of the trhrottle body and can cause drivability issues. My F250, will start spark knocking. And 4.7L are known for dirty throtttle body issues.
Sounds good. Now, for me, it's which upgrade do I beging with, lol. Tires, CAI, getting the wheels powdercoated black (I found a shop that will do this for $300, although I probably wouldn't do this UNTIL the tires were on....) etc. WHICH brings me to my next question. The Discount tire guy told me that the computer there shows I can of course (as you all here have stated) that I can fit, without issues the 245 70's. He also told me that I can ALSO fit with no problems the 255 65's because they were just a tad wider and roughly the same height. Your thoughts on which would look more "Commander-worthy"?:) I'd be going with an A/T tread, of course...prob. the Yokahama A/T's...they're only about 150 bones ea.

You know I meant o write you but can't remember if I did. What plugs did you recommend for the 4.7l 08 commander? I know we talked about Champions. Didn't want to use the original old coppers. It has 28k miles and original plus so I figured I'd replace them.

Hi Ahmed,
I believe that plug should be a good choice. I am stopping by my dealer today [friend is parts mngr.].
We're going to dig around a bit to see if Chrysler lists a platinum upgrade.
I'll let you all know my findings this afternoon.

.......Rob

Alright...I had to buy something, can't keep waiting for tax refund...just ordered pulstars for my 4.7l. Will let you know how it goes.

You know I meant o write you but can't remember if I did. What plugs did you recommend for the 4.7l 08 commander? I know we talked about Champions. Didn't want to use the original old coppers. It has 28k miles and original plus so I figured I'd replace them.

Good morning!

The 08 4.7 is the first of the dual plug per cyl engines. Some research required on your part to verify my info but it appears the top plugs are to be replaced at 30k intervals and the side plugs are at 100k intervals.
If your owners manual agrees with my findings, you have Autolite single platinum installed on top and Autolite double platinum on the sides.

The info I have indicates the upgrade for the upper plug is the same# that is installed stock on the sides.

So, it appears you will be removing Autolite #AP-5426 's and installing Autolite # APP-5426.

Obviously the single P and double P correspond to single and double platinum.

So, if you can verify the info this should be the way to go.

Hope I didn't muddy the water too much,

Rob

Alright...I had to buy something, can't keep waiting for tax refund...just ordered pulstars for my 4.7l. Will let you know how it goes.

I think that you're going to be the first from this forum to try these out. Definitely let us know.

As an update, I ordered Champion Double Platinum plugs as recommended by robby.

I will update you with results once I got (after some months :()

As an update, I ordered Champion Double Platinum plugs as recommended by robby.

I will update you with results once I got (after some months :()

Now trying not to confuse anyone but the Champion plug # I have forwarded to Ahmed is the o.e. upgrade for single plug 06/07 4.7 v-8

The Autolite plug number I have provided is the o.e. upgrade for the 08/09 4.7 dual plug per cyl v-8.

Just thought I should clarify.

Rob

Hey Rob why would they use two different plugs on that engine? I didn't know they had already upgraded the plugs on the 08 model.

Hey Rob why would they use two different plugs on that engine? I didn't know they had already upgraded the plugs on the 08 model.

Well, strictly a wild a** guess on my part, but I bet those side plugs are some kind of miserable to change.
So, they probably put the 100 k version in that position knowing there will be screams of protest if they had to be changed every 30k.

Like anyone else, I don't know why they just don't put the 100k plugs in all positions and raise the base price of the vehicle $25.00.
I think no one would have objected, LOL.

Rob

Pulstars arrived today. Got 'em installed, took some pics. I'll let you guys know how she does.

Pulstars arrived today. Got 'em installed, took some pics. I'll let you guys know how she does.

Looking forward to the results. Definitely won't be getting any for the Hemi (16 plugs) but sure would like to know the results.

Definitely won't be getting any for the Hemi (16 plugs)

Then I will accept giving you my 4.7L for your Hemi .... FREE :D ,, and get you Pulstars on top of the deal ;)

Hey guys, just got back from Iraq and took the Commander to the Dealer for a Trans service and to check a few things before BB warranty expires. Has 33K miles on it, and 25K of those are on the NGK v power copper plugs. They told me it needs new plugs and I agree. Dealer and TECH were very serious about "Champion Only" and seemed concerned I put NGK's. I told them that the 25K NGK's looked better than the 9-10K Champions, and really didnt want to put champions in it. Their response, the BEST and only plug you should use in this engine is the Champion. I've got the lifetime PT warranty, so want to be smart about this.

So I am about to replace my plugs again and want to go irridium NGK. I know a few of you switched to them, what is the consensus? I know New plugs will make everything feel better (smoother idle/accel/throttle response) no matter what I use, but this 4.7 seems to EAT plugs......... I'm thinking I will put in the NGK coppers again, but want to hear what those of you who used the Iridiums over a year ago think.

BTW, The dealer's attitude seems to me more concern for what is right for the motor than just parts loyalty, so before I go buy The Deaer is easy to talk to seems honest and straightforward, talks like a car guy, and is flexible to work with, and so is the tech. And you all know how low my tolerance for bull$h!t is, so that is saying alot:rofl:

Thanks

Robby, check your PM's I want a set of the front spacers

The copper NGK's are no better than the OE copper Champions you removed.
Copper plugs are old tech left over from the replace plugs every 10K days.
I have said before, the dealer and most mechanics generally feel better about staying with the original manufacturer plug only because they have had performance problems with non-factory manufacturers.
This is usually because Chrysler, in this case, supplied a heat range spec to Champion and Champion created a plug to that spec.
NGK and the other non-OE plug companys only supply something that is close to the spec. so sometimes performance (cold start or carbon burn-off capability, ability to carry heat to the head 'ie' heat range etc.) is compromised.
I would be surprised however if the mechanic had a concern installing a better plug (upgrade) supplied by the 'oe' manufacturer.
For example, there should be no concern using Champions correct heat range plug that is either double platinum or iridium.
So, you may want to see if their position is different regarding a 'oe' upgrade.
At least with the platinums or iridiums you now have true 100k plugs.

My thoughts,
Rob

Robby, would you say the same thing for the 3.7L even though they have NGK V-Power plugs as OEM? I am also thinking about upgrading my basic NGK plugs.

Robby, would you say the same thing for the 3.7L even though they have NGK V-Power plugs as OEM? I am also thinking about upgrading my basic NGK plugs.

Yes, you're fine with the NGK,s because they did the heat range matching for Chrysler on that engine.
To upgrade, just go with the double platinum or iridium version of the 'oe' NGK.

Rob

I had the plugs replaced by the dealer about a month or so ago. The service advisor said that they recommend only the OEM Champions. The advisor said that the
Platinum upgrade would actually make the Jeep run worse because the engine was designed to run on the plain old Champions.

Methinks the advisor missed a good opportunity to gain your trust.

Instead, he talked you into plugs that will give him an opportunity to sell another 30k service to you.

Rob

Sharon has been with the dealer for about 10 years. She nor anyone else at the dealer have led me wrong yet and I trust them. I have dealt with 2 Ford dealers and I lost trust in both of them. I have dealt with only one Chrysler dealer in 15 years of owning Chrysler products.

How can an upgraded plug make an engine run worse? The only difference is the metal is harder. A spark plug only delivers a current which causes a spark. A spark plug to me seems pretty simple. I am also questioning the myth that certain brands are for certain makes of vehicles. I will just have the dealership upgrade the plugs.

If you read some of the other posts in this thread there are others who have put upgraded plugs in their Commanders and have experienced performance issues.
Some went back to the recommended OEM plugs and the engine ran better. The issues may be due to the fact that 2007 and newer XK 4.7L are flexfuel. The engine management computer is designed to run the engine a certain way based on what percentage of Ethanol is in the fuel. Those upgraded plugs may or may not be designed to run on percentages of Ethanol higher than the 10% that is in regular grade unleaded. The computer my detect something is different when you use different plugs and may try to make adjustments and maybe that is why you get the poor performance.

The o.e. suppliers of components often make upgrades of the original component.
This is true with brake parts, tires, oil filters, oil, suspension parts, spark plugs, and on and on.
For the most part, dealership service people will always shy away from upgraded components.
Why?
Well mostly because they have seen the negative results of various other aftermarket components installed on their custumers vehicles.
Spark plugs are a real sore spot to a mechanic.
Example: Custumer arrives, annoyed, Check engine light on, runs lousy, still in warranty.
Mechanic diagnoses, pulls misfire code.
Pulls coil/plug from offending cylinder and finds a Splitfire plug (we affectionatly call these Misfires, not Splitfires)
Installs stock plug and now runs fine.
Tells writer to contact custumer so he can replace the rest of these junk plugs (mech. speaking)
Writer calls custumer, explaines need for all plugs, explaines cause of check engine light,
explaines why custumer must pay, not cars fault etc.
Wanna guess who gets to listen to now enraged custumer??
Wanna guess who now will reinforce the need to stay with the factory plug regardless of how fast it wears to any custumer who asks?

See, the problem crops up because the writer continually sees the results of people caught up in the hype of advertising.
He/She, frequently has to be the sounding board for a custumers bad decision regarding something they changed on their vehicle.
As a result, the writers become champions of the original factory installed parts, not taking into consideration there may be a higher quality original manufacturer part.
Because, if they make any suggestion, and it doesn't work out, they are going to hear from the custumer......Well, YOU SAID!
I don't blame them a bit, I try to minimize controversy in my life as well.

The writer cannot help anyone make an informed choice because, for the most part, writers are not enthusiasts.
If I was still a writer (looooong ago) even being an enthusiast, I would never have recommended any changes, because if it didn't work out, I don't want to hear about it.

My thoughts,
Rob

Great thoughts Rob.

I picked up my Commander yesterday and revisited the plug question and pressed for "why" the answer was basically what you said above. They also just assumed that it needed plugs due to mileage, and didnt pull one. I did, and though they are worn, are still good and idle is smooth as is power, etc. I'll do a good fuel injector cleaning then oil & plugs soon.

I definately dont want to do a plug change every 20-30K miles. My primary vehicle is my motorcycle now, so I expect 10K miles in the Jeep a year now, so maybe the best bet is to stay NGK Copper.

Here is a question, if the 3.7 is based on the 4.7, and the 3.7 has NGK's it would stand to reason the NGK and corresponding upgraded plugs listed and approved for the 3.7 would apply to the 4.7?

I do know that the Bosch Platinums I put in initially threw a check engine code, and after resetting the computer, though the code dissapeared, I really diddnt like the way the engine felt or ran. Just seemed weak and weezy. So I put in the NGK's and ran great. I've always been an ACDelco guy for my GM products and NGK for all else, either Euro or my motorcycles.

Still looking for feedback from the guys who made the switch to the Iridium plugs a year or so ago. Wonder how they held up, etc.

EDIT: Found this site, I like the look of the Champion Iridium plug over the NGK, will go with these, and call it done........ http://championiridium.com/Default.asp

soooo....is there a recommended upgrade or stick with stock?

Regarding the 3.7/4.7 plug interchange question, there is no sure answer unless one could speak to engineering.
Likely the heat range characteristics are different.
Even though the 3.7 is based off the 4.7 architecture, that only means the design theme was the same.
I'm trying not to fill anyones head with useless gobly gook here, so the simple answer remains....
The upgraded plug built by the original plug supplier is the most likely to meet your performance criteria.

Example: 4.7 07 and older, single plug head
OE Supplier: Champion part# RC12MCC4
UPGRADE 1: Champion part# 3318......Platinum firing tip/steel ground strap.
UPGRADE 2: Champion part# 7318......Platinum firing tip/Platinum tipped ground strap.
UPGRADE 3: Champion part# 9202......Iridium firing tip/Platinum tipped ground strap.

Each upgrade exists only for longer and longer plug life.
Any other performance improvements are just luck.

Each major plug manufacturer makes better versions of their basic plug, so the choice is up to you.
If you choose a different BRAND plug, the possibility of the heat range (operating temp) not being compatable with your particular engine presents itself.
Thats all I was trying to point out.

Rob

If you have a 3.7, then you should stick with NGK since they are the OE brand. Those of you who have the 4.7 then they shoud stick with Champion.

It is interesting that Bulldog experienced problems when he switched to Bosch.

That's the catch when you watch these commercials or read the ads for these upgraded plugs. They only push how much more power you get or how much more fuel is burned by the plug and how that increases your MPG. They never say that the only reason to buy these is to get 2,3,or 4 times the average life of a standard plug. That is another reason they don't want to put in the upgraded plugs is becuase you won't be back every 10,000-15,000 miles to have them replaced. I Apologize to robby and bob if I seamed argumentative, I just want to expand on what robby said about the engineering aspect of the subject based on my layman's understanding of it.:thumbsup:

That's the catch when you watch these commercials or read the ads for these upgraded plugs. They only push how much more power you get or how much more fuel is burned by the plug and how that increases your MPG. They never say that the only reason to buy these is to get 2,3,or 4 times the average life of a standard plug. That is another reason they don't want to put in the upgraded plugs is becuase you won't be back every 10,000-15,000 miles to have them replaced. I Apologize to robby and bob if I seamed argumentative, I just want to expand on what robby said about the engineering aspect of the subject based on my layman's understanding of it.:thumbsup:
If you weren't argumentative then I wouldn't have found out what I needed to know so thanks for asking!

Sometimes I get passionate about a subject. What robby posted here has taught me much about this subject and I greatly appreciate it. :bowdown: Especially because I am the farthest thing from an engineer.

Well, thanks for the input, and at no time did I interpet any part of the discussion argumentative.
Actually, I really enjoy being involved with this type of question.

Rob

Thanks robby!!:thumbsup: Little spirited conversation is good for you once in a while.

Good morning!

The 08 4.7 is the first of the dual plug per cyl engines. Some research required on your part to verify my info but it appears the top plugs are to be replaced at 30k intervals and the side plugs are at 100k intervals.
If your owners manual agrees with my findings, you have Autolite single platinum installed on top and Autolite double platinum on the sides.

The info I have indicates the upgrade for the upper plug is the same# that is installed stock on the sides.

So, it appears you will be removing Autolite #AP-5426 's and installing Autolite # APP-5426.

Obviously the single P and double P correspond to single and double platinum.

So, if you can verify the info this should be the way to go.

Hope I didn't muddy the water too much,

Rob

I'm at the 30,000 mile mark on my '08 4.7 and want to replace my plugs with the E3's. Should i just do the top row like the manual recommends or would it be best to change them all?

I'm at the 30,000 mile mark on my '08 4.7 and want to replace my plugs with the E3's. Should i just do the top row like the manual recommends or would it be best to change them all?


I can't imagine any harm by going to the E-3s on the top.

Rob

your 4.7 has 2 plugs per cyl? i thought it was the Hemis that has 16 plugs total!???? btw the correct E3 part is E3.48 for 4.7 and 3.7; E3.66 for the 5.7.

your 4.7 has 2 plugs per cyl? i thought it was the Hemis that has 16 plugs total!???? btw the correct E3 part is E3.48 for 4.7 and 3.7; E3.66 for the 5.7.

2008+ 4.7L has 16 plugs ,, and that gives 305 horse power

Recently installed Pulstars in my 06 4.7l. Initial impressions are good-where my Jeep would flatten out (around 3500 rpm) before, it continues to pull strong until I get out of it. Definitely feels stronger. Took a short road trip this morning (90 miles round trip) averaged 19 mpg. This was with the cruise set at 70. I'm running my first full tank of gas-reg unleaded-through it with the plugs installed, we'll see how she does.

someone on the forum said that anything but copper in the 4.7 WILL cause preignition. i wonder how many XK owners have experienced this. The NGK Iridium seems to be ok in my 4.7. You didn't mention whether or not we should disconnect the battery or not.

they said on the 4.7 you do not need to run platinum or irridium. its just a waste on that motor. i would imagine it would be the same with the 3.7L.

since the 5.7 is a higher compression motor i would imagine the more expensive plugs would be better.

Nate: Do you like your new NGK plugs? How do they compare to stock? Any problems?

Since I took the whole OEM intake out, I wanted to put in the E3 plugs. I already have 20K on the NGKs and I might as well change them. They work good but I couldn't really compare them to the stock ones because I had them swapped when I first bought the car. That is why I was questioning the use of copper plugs only to prevent preignition which I never had. Back then the E3s were double the price and now $6 a piece! My combined MPG is 15.4/15.6. I rarely use the freeway. Hopefully with the Brute Force it may improve.

sorry I missed that. i also found this article which made me wonder what plugs are compatible with an 07 4.7...

Originally Posted by curleycommander
Hey everyone, the 4.7 is different from the Hemi, you need 16 plugs on the Hemi plus it is torque specific (13 ftlbs). So you need wrench. I put in th champion iridiums (9043) and love 'em! I wold recommend signing up fo alldatadiy.com it is the best site for everything you need to know about your vehicle ad how to maintain it. Here is the info from all data:
Notes
Spark Plug

Gap
Spark Plug Gap 1.14 mm (0.045 in.)

Torque
Spark Plug Torque 18 Nm (+/- 3) 13 lb. ft (+/- 2)

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u277/wncurley214/128563306.gif


Removal and Installation

SPARK PLUG

REMOVAL
Each individual spark plug is located under each ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be removed to gain access to each spark plug.


Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle body.
Prior to removing ignition coil, spray compressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber.
Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also check condition of ignition coil O-ring and replace as necessary.
Inspect spark plug condition.
INSTALLATION

NOTE: The 4.7L is equipped with copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, pre-ignition will result.

Thanks for all the write-ups and how tos. I just put in a set of Champion double-platinums and my MPG also went from 16.5 to almost 19.5. It was so much cheaper doing it myself too.

Thanks for all the write-ups and how tos. I just put in a set of Champion double-platinums and my MPG also went from 16.5 to almost 19.5. It was so much cheaper doing it myself too.

Which engine do you have?

I just put some Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion plugs in my XK. Wow, I noticed smoother idle and more go in the pedal. I liked them so more I put them in my wife’s new jeep too.

So I have been following this thread http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5892 but now im having difficulty getting any good information on what spark plugs to use. It seems that the only 2 brands that make plugs for it are Pulstar and Bosch. The dealer gave me a part # but its something that they don't even carry. I checked with the part number and unless I wrote it down wrong, I can't seem to find out who makes the plug. After hearing bad things about Bosch and the pulstars being $25 each I don't want to use them. Was this a problem when the commander first came out? I guess maybe my best option is to go with the dealers plugs. Anybody have information on this or changed the plugs in the '08 XK yet?

here you go http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_sparkplugs.htm


WK and XK share the same engine and stuff so don't worry about those parts not working on a XK. Looks like bosch makes the plugs.

First I want to know how SGT830 gets 19mpg running 70mph. I am lucky to get 15mpg running 70mph downhill with a tailwind, and I have an intake. I am due for new plugs, but their seem to be a lot of recommendations on here. UberCommander, what is the part number for the Bosch IR plugs for the 4.7l. Thanks for all of the great advice.

I'm running the Pulstars. At 70, you're only pulling about 2000 rpm. I've since added the K&N CAI and noticed about 2mpg improvement around town. Haven't been on the road with it yet, though.

Mitch,

It is probably is a glitch in all of our cars since everyone gets different readings even with all stock components. I'm running 13.1 combined...I know, whatever that means...70% city and 30% freeway maybe. I have read on this thread that people get better gas mileages with certain gasoline brands containing 10% ethanol. Then again they could be dreaming. All in all, who cares, the XK is a nice car.
First I want to know how SGT830 gets 19mpg running 70mph. I am lucky to get 15mpg running 70mph downhill with a tailwind, and I have an intake. I am due for new plugs, but their seem to be a lot of recommendations on here. UberCommander, what is the part number for the Bosch IR plugs for the 4.7l. Thanks for all of the great advice.

OK...A few weeks back I stopped by the local auto parts store and picked up 8 of the E3 spark plugs I've been reading about here (E3.58).

Over the weekend, I finally got the chance to swap them out. I removed the air intake system, disconnected, unbolted and removed the coil. Attached my standard 5/8 plug socket, placed it down to the plug for removal....and everything ground to a halt.

Where do you get a plug socket THIN enough to fit down in the chamber to get the plug out? I've never seen so much nonsense in my life....a standard plug socket is too thick to fit down there!

Do I have to get this from MOPAR?

:icon_confused:

Here are some plugs for the 4.7l

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Copper Core; Part Number: 5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Platinum Part Number: AP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Double Platinum; Part Number: APP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance Part Number: XP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance Part No.41806

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5F-11 Part No.2262

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5FIX-11 Part No.2477

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. PZFR5F-11 Part No.4363

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR6F-11G Part No.6987

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5FGP Part No.7098

NGK Laser Platinum Spark Plug : Flex Fuel Part No.PZFR5F11

NGK V-Power Spark Plug: Flex Fuel Part No.ZFR5F11

NGK G-Power Single Platinum Plug: Flex Fuel Part No.ZFR5FGP

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug Part No.ZFR5FIX11

NGK V-Power Spark Plug Part No.ZFR6F11G

E3 Spark Plug Diamond Fire Spark Plug: Part No. E356

Champion Spark Plug: Platinum Power;Part No.3318

Stock.....Champion Spark Plug: RC12MCC4 Copper Part No.439 Stock.....

Champion Spark Plug: Double Platinum; Part No.7318

Champion Iridium Spark Plug Part No.9202

Motorcraft Spark Plug Part No.SP445

Pulstar Pulse Spark Plug Part No.BE1

Got more? add to the list.

I just noticed that this chart lists a specific plug just for the flex fuel engine. I changed my plugs a while back but dont think I got the ones for the flex fuel. Does anyone know if it really matters? Im looking to put the E3's in this week and just want to make sure im running the correct plug.

OK...A few weeks back I stopped by the local auto parts store and picked up 8 of the E3 spark plugs I've been reading about here (E3.58).

Over the weekend, I finally got the chance to swap them out. I removed the air intake system, disconnected, unbolted and removed the coil. Attached my standard 5/8 plug socket, placed it down to the plug for removal....and everything ground to a halt.

Where do you get a plug socket THIN enough to fit down in the chamber to get the plug out? I've never seen so much nonsense in my life....a standard plug socket is too thick to fit down there!

Do I have to get this from MOPAR?

:icon_confused:


I just notice that you have a 2008 Jeep Commander. As far as I know the 2008 and newer 4.7 liter engines have 16 spark plugs, not 8. I just recently read that it uses two different spark plugs. This is directly off the website:

CAUTION: This engine uses TWO DIFFERENT types of spark plugs. A total of 16 plugs is used. The plugs are mounted in two rows (banks). The upper row is used on the intake valve side of the cylinder head. The lower row is used on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder head. The upper row uses Bosch Nickel Yttrium plugs. The lower row uses Bosch Iridium plugs. DO NOT INTERCHANGE THESE PLUGS.

Also as far as I know its just a standard 5/8 spark plug socket to get the plugs out. How knows though since you have the newer engine with 16 plugs.

Merged 4.7 spark plug threads.

Geez! I'm trying to find some Champion Platinum Power 3318's locally and am having no luck! I can find them on the internet no problem but no one local has them.

Autozone has an Autolite plug that's comparable but I'm pretty set on the Champions. Guess I'll keep looking, hopefully someone has them.

Found 'em @ NAPA! Same price as I found online without the S & H.

Just changed the plugs. This was a very easy job. I think the only easier one I have done was on my '88 Chevy pickup.

I definitely needed to do it. Some of the old plugs were quite worn. I replaced them with Champion Single Platinum's #3318. I couldn't justify the price for the double platinum's or iridium's. I went for a mile drive and everything seems fine.

Thanks for the write up! If we could get the pic links fixed it may help some others who are apprehensive about tackling this.

I didn't see anything about dielectric grease. Is that not needed?

I made a quick video on how to change the oil in my 4.7L Grand Cherokee and thought I would share here since they have the same drive train. Hope this helps someone out if they have never done their own maintenance before!

Part One:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqP87FFsffA

Part Two:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eh3GDaHAyM

:alf:
Jack



Warning: I am not a professional and not held liable for any damages to any vehicle that you work on or have someone work on. This is only for demonstration purposes on how I have done work on my own vehicle and may have left out some critical information. Please refer to your dealer before performing any maintenance or work on your own.

Finally got around to throwing in new plugs...i was doing the plugs in my Chevy so i picked up the snowmanders plugs aswell

i chose the Bosch Platinum plus plugs simple reason being i have good luck with bosch and they were a great mid grade plug at $8.99 a pair....

I included a picture of the factory plugs...they look nasty...my 4.7L has 55,345 kms on it as of time of plug replacement

I have 7 out of eight plugs changed, but I cannot figure how to get the rear plug which is tight under the transmission dipstick. Do I have to remove the skid plates and loosen the tube somewhere? I have not removed the wires from the coils as I could pull them up out of the way together. How do you seperate them? I have a big trip to the sand a week from tomorrow and do not want to screw up anything. Need to finish this first thing in the morning so all resonse are appreciated. By the by the electrodes were very worn on the orginial plugs at 62K.

I have 7 out of eight plugs changed, but I cannot figure how to get the rear plug which is tight under the transmission dipstick. Do I have to remove the skid plates and loosen the tube somewhere? I have not removed the wires from the coils as I could pull them up out of the way together. How do you seperate them? I have a big trip to the sand a week from tomorrow and do not want to screw up anything. Need to finish this first thing in the morning so all resonse are appreciated. By the by the electrodes were very worn on the orginial plugs at 62K.

You dont have to remove the skids or loosen the transmission dipstick. Swap it out the same way you did the other 7 plugs. You might have to use a different arangement of extensions since the dip stick is in the way. I have different length extensions so its rather easy to get to.

Like 07 I used a different set or extensions and swivels to get at it and get it out. Though you can loosen the dipstick and push it out of the way. I thought I remember others mentioning doing that.

The tube for the trnamission dip stick is sitting right over the coil so I cannot remove the coil. If the wire can be removed from the coil I might be able to horse it out. If I could get the coil out I could remove the pulg. There is a mount to loosen that allows you to move the oil dip stick out of the way but I see nothing for the transmission. My XK has had extensive reconstruction work to the front end to the point that the engine was removed, if the tranny dip stick is bent I may have to take it back to the body shop to have them fix it. I will just have to find an Coursety(Auto Nation)dealership that does body work since the one that worked on mine(Jeep Dealer) was closed.

Here are some pictures which show the transmission tube over the coil

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/DEBBOB/Post/DSCN0549.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o298/DEBBOB/Post/DSCN0548-1.jpg

bend it out of the way. that's all i did. no problems in 50K miles since i did it.

Here are some pictures which show the transmission tube over the coil

Hmmmm, mine doesnt look like that. Now I see why you were having trouble. What year is your Commander?

Hmmmm, mine doesnt look like that. Now I see why you were having trouble. What year is your Commander?

It is an 06 4.7

It is an 06 4.7 Same as mine. I wonder why I didn't have any trouble? I must of bent the tube out of the way. Don't push it real hard. Just enough to remove the coil.

Just re-read your original post. Yes you can disconnect the coil. Then wiggle it out.

I disconnected the plug at the coil and with the help of a persuader bar was able to remove the coil. The tube now sits about 1 1/2 inches above the coil and will have to be moved some on the next change. Job complete. Now it is time to start getting my fishing gear ready for a week at the beach. Thanks for the input.

Bump...

Here are some plugs for the 4.7l

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Copper Core; Part Number: 5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Platinum Part Number: AP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Double Platinum; Part Number: APP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance Part Number: XP5224

Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance Part No.41806

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5F-11 Part No.2262

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5FIX-11 Part No.2477

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. PZFR5F-11 Part No.4363

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR6F-11G Part No.6987

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5FGP Part No.7098

NGK Laser Platinum Spark Plug : Flex Fuel Part No.PZFR5F11

NGK V-Power Spark Plug: Flex Fuel Part No.ZFR5F11

NGK G-Power Single Platinum Plug: Flex Fuel Part No.ZFR5FGP

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug Part No.ZFR5FIX11

NGK V-Power Spark Plug Part No.ZFR6F11G

E3 Spark Plug Diamond Fire Spark Plug: Part No. E356

Champion Spark Plug: Platinum Power;Part No.3318

Stock.....Champion Spark Plug: RC12MCC4 Copper Part No.439 Stock.....

Champion Spark Plug: Double Platinum; Part No.7318

Champion Iridium Spark Plug Part No.9202

Motorcraft Spark Plug Part No.SP445

Pulstar Pulse Spark Plug Part No.BE1

Got more? add to the list.

Please provide feedback to help other members. I'm leaning towards the Champion Double Platinum's.

Wow this thread was great for the last hour I read it... I am about to take my 07/4.7 in to get the 30k service... since its still under warranty I think its best to let them handle it. However I really do want to start to upgrade parts. Filters and plugs included... I am still torn on wether or not to get a better plug... yes even after an hour of reading... for those who have upgraded the 4.7 w flex fuel... how is it working for you?

thanks for the right up, this is great

Wow, great stuffs here but I'm on the fence on what plug. Any advice on which one? I have a 3.7 Liter and decided to go platinum. At Oreilly, I have narrowed down to Champion (3344), Bosch (4030) and autolite (AP5224) OR none of these? All are just standard platinum. After reading all of this thread, still can't decide which one. Thanks

Wow, great stuffs here but I'm on the fence on what plug. Any advice on which one? I have a 3.7 Liter and decided to go platinum. At Oreilly, I have narrowed down to Champion (3344), Bosch (4030) and autolite (AP5224) OR none of these? All are just standard platinum. After reading all of this thread, still can't decide which one. Thanks

The best direct upgrade would be the double platinum version of your stock NGK's.

Rob

Just put in some Bosch 4030's Platinum + in my 4.7 work great so far(about 150miles), much smoother and it will pull a hill in 5th now LOL although the old plugs were burned up and had a gap of .060+

This is the first time that i have ever attempted to change the spark plugs on anything. I watched the video and have read through this thread but cannot find where you are supposed to put the dielectric grease. the guy at NAPA said to put it on the threads and the boot but what is the boot?
EOD OUT!!!

The boot is the rubber cap over the spark plug.

This is the first time that i have ever attempted to change the spark plugs on anything. I watched the video and have read through this thread but cannot find where you are supposed to put the dielectric grease. the guy at NAPA said to put it on the threads and the boot but what is the boot?
EOD OUT!!!

Di-electric grease on the coil boots.....the part that connects to the plug.
Lube the boot by putting some on your finger tip and coating the inner lip area.
This preserves the rubber seal and keeps it from welding itself to the plug porcelan over time, so at the next plug change the coils will come off without tearing the boot.
Do not put di-electric grease on the plug threads.

Some will recommend anti seize but all plug makers stopped recommending it some years ago.
They say a dry, anti corrosive was part of the assembly process.
I don't see anything, but I haven't run across a frozen plug in years so one must think they know what they made.

Rob

thanks for the info. going to try to get them changed this week. had a guy quit on me and things have been crazy at work.
EOD OUT!!!

Is it necessary to put dielectric grease on the boot and anti-seize on the threads? Kinda got an answer on the anti-seize from Robby's post above...but do some of you do it anyway? Just bought some NGK V-Powers and wanted to double check before I attempted the swap. Thanks!

The boot does not stick to the plug like the old short boots did so the grease is not a necessity on the boot

Thanks. I installed the V-Powers tonight in about an hour and ten minutes. Not bad for never doing it before, I thought. I'll post a pic later, but my old Champions were in pretty bad shape. I bought my XK with 40,000 miles, not sure if they were changed prior, so as far as I know, they were the original plugs...and I'm now at 78,000 miles. Most of the gaps were at .058 and they were really scorched. Thanks again for this thread and the "Maintenance 101" videos for guiding me through it.

The boot does not stick to the plug like the old short boots did so the grease is not a necessity on the boot

I had issues with sticky boots on plugs when I changed the plugs on my hemi. In fact, 2 boots were left in the cylinder head when I pulled out 2 separate coil packs (one boot on each coil pack). What a PITA to get out!!!

Needless to say, I used dielectric grease when putting everything back. No problems in 27,000 miles since. (I also used anti-seize.)

ok...so...maybe i am bad, but i am at almost 60k on my XK with the original plugs...its getting into camping season and towing my 4000lb camper. I am looking at changing plugs in it and in my wifes JK, i assume the plug info for the XK and JK v6 would be the same, since both running the same moter. My XK has the 4.7, is 2006 model. I am leaning towards the NGK's, but I have noticed that several parts websites have said that DENSO was the oem part for these. Anybody have any good suggestions as to the best plug for towing (constant 3-3500 rpm) and overall mileage?

Thanks for the help!

reading threw a lot of threads guys seem to like and report good results with the NGK iridium plugs. You can search the change plugs for the 3.7 as well were plug types are discussed in detail. Don't use the E3 plugs that I can tell you. Just using plan platinum plugs my idle smoothed out a lot no change in MPG like with the Iridiums guys reporting 1-2 mpg gains on those if its true its worth the money.

NGK was OE on the 3.7. There have been some instances of Denso usage as OE.

Champion was the OE on the 4.7

Rob

ok. so basically i would be pretty safe using the NGK platinums on the the XK and JK?

I would suggest NGK Platinum on the 3.7 V-6.

I would go with the Champion double platinum on the 4.7 V-8.

This assures you the heat ranges are correct for each application.

Rob

This is information I keep in my phone. If I am out and need something,
I have the data handy.

Champion Spark Plug: Double Platinum; Part No.7318
SAE 5W-20 6Q
Oil Filter (P/N 05281090)
Engine Coolant/Antifreeze 14.5Q
87 Octane
ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid
NV 247/245 Transfer Case Lubricant
DOT 3 Brake Fluid, SAE J1703

[QUOTE=cico7;163682]This is information I keep in my phone. If I am out and need something,
I have the data handy.

Good data to have, made a copy to keep with my XK. Thanks cico

So... What plugs do I get? I read all 22 pages and I don't know what to think. Do I need to stay with champion on my 06 4.7L? Can I get iridium? What to get: NGK, Champion, e3, other?

So... What plugs do I get? I read all 22 pages and I don't know what to think. Do I need to stay with champion on my 06 4.7L? Can I get iridium? What to get: NGK, Champion, e3, other?
Best bet is to stay with the stock Champions.

Best bet is to stay with the stock Champions.

Hard to do when I hear I can get an extra 2+ mpg and throttle response by an easy installation.

Hard to do when I hear I can get an extra 2+ mpg and throttle response by an easy installation.
I meant replace the stock Champions with the exact same plug. I didn't mean for you to not change the plugs at all.

Well,
For whatever it's worth I did change my plugs on my 07 4.7 this last weekend.
I did install the Champion 9202 Iridiums.
I have 34000 on the Commander and the fuel mileage and driveability have been as new for the duration.
The original copper core Champs I removed were worn as expected, the firing tips were rounded.
The plug exchange was absolute cake.....so nice to not deal with plug wires anymore and having the plugs straight up was a new experience for an old dog.
Took maybe 45 minutes to an hour, I wasn't timing myself.
I was working in the hangar Sunday and around four p.m. I figured the block would be at ambient (I'd been there since 8:30 a.m.) and it was.
So, since I'd been driving around with these plugs in the back of the Commander for the last three months, decided to get er done.

So, what changes did I notice?
Sorry, none......runs as nice as always, got the same mileage on the highway going home I always get......same mileage around town I always get, and the same good driveability it always has displayed.
What I gained was, I won't be thinking about plugs again till around 100k.....works for me.

Rob