Break pads need replacement, any recommendations?

I checked the front break pads today, and found that they need to be changed soon. the current millage is 20K miles only, but I think they wear out quickly due to the excessive engagement of Traction control on sand dunes driving.

Any suggestions/recommendation of the new break pads? or shall I go for the OME ones.

I would suggest going back with OEM, I had dealer replace mine He did not use OEM pads with in 5000 mile they started squeaking and had brake dust all over wheels. I took XK back they installed OEM pads at their cost.

Any ceramic brake pad, if not you will get squeaking!

Any particular brand of ceramic pads you recommend?

Is it ok to put on with the old rotors? or I have to replace them with ceramic ones

make sure you or the person installing pads turns rotors.

make sure you or the person installing pads turns rotors.

Do you mean machining the rotors?

Yes, that is what I mean

Although it sounds unacceptable, machining of rotors is nowadays considered optional and only necessary if rotors are not parrellel [S.P.?], or they are scored from metal to metal contact. The reasoning is, why remove rotor material unless necessary to return to specification? Jeep says [all automakers say] the pads will conform to the minor rotor grooving during pad break in. Although it makes me a little nuts to do this, [Tech,46years], especially the first time years ago,it works just fine. The concept is an offshoot of motorcycle brake service. Their rotors are stainless steel and have very little material to give to machining. They would have to milled as opposed to turned and that would be expensive. Anyways, they always replace pads with no rotor service and it takes a 100 miles or so for them to bed in. Works fine.
Relative to pad material, you generally are trying to balance [compromise] between good wear, minimum rotor tearing, quiet operation, good and consistent pedal feel.
Everyone has their favorite.
With very few exceptions I still have the best results with the original equipment.
Now, if you are going to start track racing your Commander, then start using carbon ceramic or carbon metallic. Plan on rotor replacement due to hard spotting at every brake job. LOL.

I apologize in advance for the hub bub that will ensue due to the machining of rotor response, but, thats out of the common service manual.
I would however, machine the rotors if I was not using the o.e. pads, regardless of their condition.
More than $.02............Rob

I've had nothing but good experiences with Raybestos QS (Quiet Stop) pads. They are a ceramic pad that are engineered to produce very little brake dust (the little dust they produce isn't black like OEM pads, but more of a light grey that doesn't make your wheels look dirty) and no noise.

If you don't want to go ceramic, they also make PG Plus pads which are also low dust and don't make noise. I have used nothing but these pads on all my vehicles in the past and I've been very happy with them. When my OEM pads wear out on my 4Runner, I'm definitely going with the QS pads.

Although it sounds unacceptable, machining of rotors is nowadays considered optional and only necessary if rotors are not parrellel [S.P.?], or they are scored from metal to metal contact. The reasoning is, why remove rotor material unless necessary to return to specification? Jeep says [all automakers say] the pads will conform to the minor rotor grooving during pad break in. Although it makes me a little nuts to do this, [Tech,46years], especially the first time years ago,it works just fine.

I think the never ending quest for higher fuel economy forced auto manufacturers to look for ways to save weight on their vehicles. Once easy way to do this is to use lighter weight rotors, which means that they are close to the minimum thickness specification even when new. Of course this means that they are basically throw-away rotors that are not able to be machined like the heavy rotors that came on older vehicles.

In a way, SUV and light truck drivers are lucky that our rotors are able to be machined and still be within minimum thickness tolerances. But it is still important to realize that any time you machine a rotor, there's less material remaining to disappate heat, therefore your rotors are more likely to warp and cause pulsation in the brake pedal. Personally, I'd rather just install new rotors instead of machining them, even on an SUV or light truck.

Although it sounds unacceptable, machining of rotors is nowadays considered optional and only necessary if rotors are not parrellel [S.P.?], or they are scored from metal to metal contact. The reasoning is, why remove rotor material unless necessary to return to specification? Jeep says [all automakers say] the pads will conform to the minor rotor grooving during pad break in. Although it makes me a little nuts to do this, [Tech,46years], especially the first time years ago,it works just fine. The concept is an offshoot of motorcycle brake service. Their rotors are stainless steel and have very little material to give to machining. They would have to milled as opposed to turned and that would be expensive. Anyways, they always replace pads with no rotor service and it takes a 100 miles or so for them to bed in. Works fine.
Relative to pad material, you generally are trying to balance [compromise] between good wear, minimum rotor tearing, quiet operation, good and consistent pedal feel.
Everyone has their favorite.
With very few exceptions I still have the best results with the original equipment.
Now, if you are going to start track racing your Commander, then start using carbon ceramic or carbon metallic. Plan on rotor replacement due to hard spotting at every brake job. LOL.

I apologize in advance for the hub bub that will ensue due to the machining of rotor response, but, thats out of the common service manual.
I would however, machine the rotors if I was not using the o.e. pads, regardless of their condition.
More than $.02............Rob

Thanks for your advise :) ,, I really appreciate it.

as a conclusion, I shouldn't machine the rotors and you prefer to keep using the OME pads.

I will take the first advice, but I'd rather go for the ceramic pads to at least get the benefit that it does not produce noticeable dust, and its not so expensive. cheaper than the OME ones.


I've had nothing but good experiences with Raybestos QS (Quiet Stop) pads. They are a ceramic pad that are engineered to produce very little brake dust (the little dust they produce isn't black like OEM pads, but more of a light grey that doesn't make your wheels look dirty) and no noise.

If you don't want to go ceramic, they also make PG Plus pads which are also low dust and don't make noise. I have used nothing but these pads on all my vehicles in the past and I've been very happy with them. When my OEM pads wear out on my 4Runner, I'm definitely going with the QS pads.
Thanks,

Is it like this one ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360031001258&_trksid=p2759.l1259

It's hard to tell in that auction, but just look for the QS (quiet stop) designation or PG Plus if you decide that you don't want to go with ceramic. Some guys will use nothing but OEM pads, but in my opinion there are better pads out there that are also less expensive.

The ironic thing is that OEM brake pads are all made by the big name companies like Raybestos, Wagner, Bendix, etc... But most people don't know that and pay dealership prices for their brake pads.

I found this about Raybestos Quiet Stop pads !!! ,,, any thing to worry about? or just bad luck happened to him !

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f10/attention-raybestos-quiet-stop-ceramic-brake-pads-danger-439002/

Wow, I don't know what to say. I've never seen anything like that... I wonder if they could have been improperly installed? One of the posters mentioned that the company was sold and the quality suffered. I don't know if there's any truth to that, but there might be...

Then again, I'm sure if you look hard enough, you could find a similar story for just about any pads out there, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. If Raybesto pads were unsafe or bad quality, there would be posts all over the Internet like the one you linked.

The common brands I found in the net are Akebono and EBC

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=jeep+grand+cherokee+brake+pad+set&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=4294966839

Thats a interesting example of pad separation.
Usually caused by moisture migrating between pad and backing plate and then freezing and expanding.
I've seen it before on bonded [those are bonded] and riveted alike. On the riveted type the pad will tear over the rivet heads.
The car is located in Connecticit [S.P.?], a rather damp part of the country, and they were installed 4 years ago.
Thats kind of a down side to pad longetivity. You start seeing time related failures rather than wear failures.
Same pads in desert use would not show any of that separation.
I would be hard pressed to shoot down the manufacturer on that one.

............Rob

The common brands I found in the net are Akebono and EBC

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=jeep+grand+cherokee+brake+pad+set&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=4294966839
Also check out the Bosch ceramic pads :http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/BrakeParts/Ceramic+Brake+Pads.htm (http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/BrakeParts/Ceramic+Brake+Pads.htm)

Wow, I don't know what to say. I've never seen anything like that... I wonder if they could have been improperly installed? One of the posters mentioned that the company was sold and the quality suffered. I don't know if there's any truth to that, but there might be...

Then again, I'm sure if you look hard enough, you could find a similar story for just about any pads out there, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. If Raybesto pads were unsafe or bad quality, there would be posts all over the Internet like the one you linked.


I have heard/seen examples of this with those pads, but it's from people that really drive hard. The quality had gone down hill after the change in-house. I hear that regular use isn't of much issue, but after seeing this several times, I will pass on Raybesto brand myself.

I would just stick with OEM stuff, unless you go for a real performance upgrade. Ahmed, you will see lots of wear due to enviroment issues, sand and such...

Also check out the Bosch ceramic pads :http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/BrakeParts/Ceramic+Brake+Pads.htm (http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/BrakeParts/Ceramic+Brake+Pads.htm)


Thanks :) , Unfortunately, they don't make break pads for Commander! ,, only Spark plugs, Oil filters and Wiper blades


I have heard/seen examples of this with those pads, but it's from people that really drive hard. The quality had gone down hill after the change in-house. I hear that regular use isn't of much issue, but after seeing this several times, I will pass on Raybesto brand myself.

I would just stick with OEM stuff, unless you go for a real performance upgrade. Ahmed, you will see lots of wear due to enviroment issues, sand and such...

!! I start to get confused :confused:

I'm saying use the OEM pads. That is a good bet. You will see regular wear with any pads due to all of the off road driving that you do.

While looking for breaks I found this sheet about 2007 Mopar Application Guide for Breaks , I thought it would be useful for you.

http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/brakes/brakes.pdf


and this is the WK and XK part of it.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg135/ahmed255/Jeepbreaks.jpg


and here is the categories description:

O.E. BRAKES
• Original equipment on Chrysler, Jeep® and Dodge vehicles
• Premium materials provide optimum performance
• Meet or exceed all Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards
• Nationwide 12-month/12,000-mile warranty

VALUE LINE CERAMIC BRAKES
• Virtually eliminates noise and reduces dusting
• 100% insulated and asbestos free
• National Lifetime Limited Warranty

VALUE LINE BRAKES
• Traditional Mopar quality at a competitive price
• Designed specifically for Chrysler, Jeep and Dodge vehicles
• Factory tested to meet stringent performance standards
• Nationwide lifetime limited warranty

BRAKE KIT FEATURES
• Includes pads, rotors and all hardware for a complete quality job
• All-new materials provide optimum performance
• Lower brake service labor time
• Eliminates the need to machine worn rotors

Well I used to just hear my brakes squeek once in the morning, but now its happening constantly. At 40,000 miles I guess this is normal.

What kind of price should I expect to pay? I called around and for ceramic pads the dealer is saying around $200, express oil change @ $159, and a local ma and pa shop is saying $180. Thoughts?

don't buy the Stillen brake pads. i have them and they suck so bad. im almost thinking about buying some different ones. even tho they are almost new.

I go through quite a few sets of brakes on my track cars. It's not uncommon for me to go through a brand new set of front pads in just a couple of track days. I probably put three sets of pads a year on the Mini. I've tried quite a few brands over the years.

I've not personally used Akebonos as they don't make a track suitable fitment for the Mini but I know the European performance/repair shop that has done some work on my Mini uses them as replacements on Audis, BMWs, etc. The owner indicated that customers are invariably happy with them for street use.

I'll need brakes soon on the 06 Commander I just purchased and am planning on ordering the Akebono ceramics from TireRack at $82/$72, Front/Rear sets. Ceramics don't grab as well as a good metallic pad but I'm not exactly driving the Jeep into the corners like I do the Mini. Now, the question is... Do I put the ATE high-temp fluid in just because I have a few cans on the shelf?

Does anyone have any ceramic pad brand recommendations? Im tired of the squealing!!!
Should I just go for the AutoZone special or go high end, any suggestions?

I don't know, but after reading Ahmed's posts, I might have to look at other brands besides Raybestos. If the company sold out under new ownership, maybe it had an impact on quality or materials used.

Other good brands that I've used in the past are Wagner and Bendix.

I'm probably going to go with Wagner or EBC

After searching in the local market I managed to find only two types, the MOPAR OEM pads and MOPAR V-Line pads. both were available at Jeep dealer in Saudi and the price difference was so big between them (OME for $170 and the MOPAR V-line for $50!) so I went for the V-line one for the price and all spare parts shops recommended it and said its good and all customers are buying it instead of the OEM ones.

Here how the old and new look like!

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg135/ahmed255/IMG_0621.jpg

I have changed only the front pads, the rare ones can serve little more.

Is it ok to change only the front one? or should I go for both ends at the same time?


Is there any break-in procedure for the new pads?

Brake pad break in process has become not much more than long gentle brake application unless you're about to hit something of course.
It can be assumed full break in has occured at about 200 miles of around town driving.

No, it is not necessary to replace all pad sets at the same time.
One axle at a time is satisfactory.

........Rob

I just bought the Wagner front brake pads for $53 at O'reilly Auto Parts, i'll let everyone know how they work out.

I just bought the Wagner front brake pads for $53 at O'reilly Auto Parts, i'll let everyone know how they work out.

Good luck, is it ceramic?

How many miles did you have on your pads before you replaced them? I'm at 36k miles and just put on suspension and tires, kind of warry about how much long they're gunna safely hold out and winters comin pretty quick

How many miles did you have on your pads before you replaced them? I'm at 36k miles and just put on suspension and tires, kind of warry about how much long they're gunna safely hold out and winters comin pretty quick

For me I'm at 21K miles, but I drove alot off road on sand dunes where Traction control kicks in alot.

For me I'm at 21K miles, but I drove alot off road on sand dunes where Traction control kicks in alot.
That sand probably eats them up too.

Well I just replaced mine @ 40k, The guy at the shop did an inspection first and said that >50% of the pads were still left. I was so annoyed with the original parts squeeking all the time that I told him to go ahead and chunk them and set the front up with ceramics.


Also, just noticed the new emoticons....when the heck will alf ever come in handy?:alf:?

Yes they are ceramic, I have 42K on the Commander.

That sand probably eats them up too.

That is true, soft sand affects the break bads

Does anyone have any reviews on their new pads? Mine has around 45,000 miles and I noticed my rotors are getting warped. I might just buy the OE rotors and pads from www.justforjeeps.com since they have low prices on Mopar parts.

How hard was it to remove the front rotors? I hope mine are not rusted on there even though the Commander is 3 years old.

I know this is a little off topic, but why do ceramic pads have bits of copper in them?

I took a couple of pictures for example.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk187/JeepC/Commander%20pictures/P1010227.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk187/JeepC/Commander%20pictures/P1010226.jpg

I know this is a little off topic, but why do ceramic pads have bits of copper in them?

Moved your question to this thread.

Soft metals are mixed into the material to act as a binder and assist with heat transfer.

Rob

I have always used a good ceramic pad in the past but I was looking at the EBC greenstuff brake pads. Does anyone have any opinions about these or know someone who has used them?

I have always used a good ceramic pad in the past but I was looking at the EBC greenstuff brake pads. Does anyone have any opinions about these or know someone who has used them?

Welcome, Moved your question to this thread. Please use the search feature before starting new threads, most basic questions have an answer here already.

Fixin ta change my rear pads. Any recommendations as to ceramic vs semi metallic?

Thanks

I prefer ceramic - less (to no) brake dust and longer lasting. I got the Duralast Gold pads from Auto Zone and have been happy.

I have to get some rear pads too. I heard the squealers start to make noise the other day. I have been putting it off a little too long so I checked it out today and it turns out that the rear is gone. Still about 1/2 to 3/4 remaining on the front. I have never had a vehicle that has gone through rears before fronts.

Fixin ta change my rear pads. Any recommendations as to ceramic vs semi metallic?

Thanks

Moved your question to this thread. Please search before asking off topic questions on other threads.

I just installed the new rear pads. I was probably a week away from trashing the rear rotors.

How many miles do you have on yours? I am at 55,000 and my rears look 10% worn and the fronts look 25% worn.

I just installed the new rear pads. I was probably a week away from trashing the rear rotors.

1. Which brand did you buy?
2. Where did you buy them?
3. How much did they cost?
4. What is the milage on your Jeep?

:orangehat:

1. Which brand did you buy?
2. Where did you buy them?
3. How much did they cost?
4. What is the milage on your Jeep?

:orangehat:

1. NAPA Safety stop Ceramic
2. NAPA (Carver's Auto Parts) Flemington
3. $40
4. 40,*** miles (almost to 41K)

Did the job myself so there was not added cost and it took about 20 mins.