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LED Turn Signals?

12K views 27 replies 6 participants last post by  luckyse7ens 
#1 ·
I'm really interested in seeing if this is possible. Another member tried long ago with no results apparently. He said that they would not work properly when the headlights were on. Anyone know anything about that, or if there have been lights made that correct this problem?

(reference: http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3804)
 
#3 ·
Bumping this to see if anyone has any input. I am referring to the front turn signals, and side markers near the reflector as well if possible. A thread from awhile back showed someone trying it and failing, and a more recent thread someone stated all exterior bulbs could be fitted with LEDs.

Anyone know the story or done this themselves yet?
 
#4 · (Edited)
I have all LED exterior lights. I installed them prior to me leaving for Argentina. From what little i tested, all worked great. It will be a couple weeks before I get home, but will give you a full review of operation.
 
#5 ·
Do you know what type of bulb was used? The ones I purchased were all lumen except for my license plate were by putco.
 
#6 ·
#8 · (Edited)
Yes the 3157 were the ones I ordered. I ordered amber for the front and red for the back. I ordered the Rear Side Marker Replacement LED Bulb - 194, Red (194CR) by Lumen®. If you are looking at your rear tail lights, it's the small bulb that is in the lower outboard portion of your lens.
Your front does not use those type of bulbs though.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Will the side markers install without taking the tail light cover off? That hole is very small. Also, did you replace the side marker for the front turn signal? Lastly, do you replace the front turn signal light through the engine bay or the wheel well with the small access door?

Edit: Ordered the Lumen front turn signal bulbs and side markers. Couldn't really see how to access the lights from just a quick look into the engine bay. And I figured the rear side markers aren't necessary as they don't illuminate with turn signal use and only light up when the vehicle's lights are on.

Edit 2: Just saw on another Jeep forum that the access is through the wheel well door. Will give it a look tomorrow.
 
#10 ·
Turn signals will be here tomorrow. Side markers later this month.

Any ideas on how to flex or prop the vehicle up a little to get easier access to the wheel well panel? Could probably feel around and do it but would prefer to see. Don't have a jack unfortunately.
 
#11 ·
In reference to this thread: http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3804

My LED turn signals are also not working properly. They hyperflash with no lights on (unless in hazard mode), won't flash at all in parking light or headlight mode. CarID recommended resistors, however I do not have the patience or desire to try to wire that in. It is way too cramped in that space, but I haven't done anything like that before. Will be returning them sadly.
 
#12 ·
I was in the SAME exact boat as you my friend...

I would encourage you to take a day, and take the front apart and get better access to the vehicles. There is a thread on here about removing the Front Bumper/Face. This is allow you better access to place the new LED bulbs, and better access to the needed wires in order to place the resistors.

With the right LED bulbs, it REALLY can make a difference and show your vehicle off when using the signals or marker lights. I would encourage you to spend a little more and purchase the bulbs with the most LED surfaces possible. Since the LED Bulbs are shorter and don't throw light in all directions like incandescent bulbs, by adding more LED surface you allow the reflective housing to do the work for you.

In my opinion, it really is worth the effort. And once they and the resistors are in, it is highly unlikely would will need to change them out during the life of the vehicle or while you own it.

Good luck!
 
#13 ·
Only issue is, it's winter right now. Could wait till Spring, but that also leaves the issue that getting my push bar on in the front was an absolute pain. So I'd have to take that off, then get the bumper off, then figure out how to wire the resistors on. The LEDs I have are 27 per bulb, so it's quite a bit. It did look fantastic, but I guess I'll just have to live with having rear LEDs only.

That is, unless you can tell me what resistors need to go where, and how to do that. I'd have to cut wires, re-solder, and shrink wrap, right?
 
#14 ·
I apologize on taking so long in getting back. I just got home from Argentina. I was wrong. Prior to me leaving, I installed the LED lights and was under the impression they were working. Mine worked fine with out the headlights on. So I thought everything was working fine. But, tonight I turned on the headlights, and yeah they did not work right. I will be contacting carid tomorrow and getting a solution to it or getting my money back.. I will keep you informed.
 
#15 ·
Do they work with the parking lights? Do they hyperflash as well?

I just sent my order back the other day without a problem. Just explain exactly what is happening.
 
#16 ·
Man, I'm really sorry about everything. When I put them in, I had everything changed over to LED's. everything worked during the day light, ie headlights not on. Well last night, I went out and tried it with the headlights on, and everything went crazy. It did the hyper flash. But when the headlights are off, they worked fine. Probably because I had LEDs in the front and rear. Well I did call them, the one tech rep started off saying I could install a resistor to trick the system into working. I was on board with doing that, but then he stated talking to one of the electrical guys that works there that had a jeep. Ends up that our jeeps have the "CAN Bus II", and the resistor will not work. Now I'm sending them back.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Can you specify what must be done and where to get those resistors in to make the LEDs work?

I'm looking at purchasing this system: http://www.vleds.com/bulb-number/3157-3156-led/amber-led/v3-a.html

and adding the option for 20W resistors. Do you think that would work? Obviously it's very pricey, but worth it so I don't have to do the work, and the system is high quality.
 
#19 ·
You got it!

First:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/load_resistor_info.pdf

Second:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/car-install-supplies/tail-light-load-resistor-kit/190/831/

The can bus/computer of the vehicle doesn't matter because once the resistors are attached (as described in the instructions) the LED's act JUST like a typical filament-incandescent bulb (because they draw relatively the same power as a standard bulb) and thus the truck doesn't know the difference. My read LED's work perfectly ALL the time.

My front ones are on the bench with the whole assembly right now pending angel eye insertions. But worked FINE. Lights on or off.

I hope this helps!
 
#20 ·
Ah, well I just did the unthinkable and paid for the v3 Tritons along with their CLS module for load resistance. Hopefully these lights are beautiful and work flawlessly for $150!
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the info.. They refunded me all my shipping and cost of the LEDs, but yet they said just to keep the LEDs. How big are the load resistors in size? I think i am going to try this.
 
#22 ·
50ohm should work just fine for the tails/turns (that is what I am using, with no problems), and 25ohm for the side marker light (*if it even blinks... I didnt replace that one yet. I'm going to need some more time to get all the way in there and do everything I want to do all at once...The turn signals were my priority anyways).

The links I posted earlier in this thread should help out! Good luck to all!
 
#23 · (Edited)
Would you imagine a 20 watt resistor to work as well?

But I doubt the side marker would need one unless it would glow due to power constantly going to it. It should flash just fine as I can't imagine that bulb being monitored by the system. As you know mine isn't wiring due to the cut wire, but the turn signal still works fine.

Edit: Their 20 watt CLS (circuit load system) is actually just a box that houses two small filament bulbs to create additional load. They are also replaceable to 35W, but the 20W worked fine for me. Also, side marker needed no resistor from what I could tell, however it did start to glow momentarily when there was no bulb present in the turn signal after I tried the hazards. It turned off about a minute later.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Got my Tritons and flank LEDs today. They left out my 4 pairs of 12" extension cables so it's a bit of an unfinished job at the moment, but I'll be fixing that soon. They work and look great, and let me tell you, they are BRIGHT! The build quality is quite good, though the wiring could be beefier and a bit more secure feeling for a $100 system. Install was a little tricky, but actually quite easy once I had an idea of how it all was put together. Just pay attention to all the instructions and use your brain a little!

 
#26 · (Edited)
The left side was harder for me than the right. I used small pliers for both sides to grip the tabs. Reach through the wheel well door and look through the top of the engine bay. You'll barely be able to see the tabs which you can grip on to but its enough to work with. Both unlock with a quarter turn to the left and lock with a quarter turn to the right, just like the turn signals. It can especially be a pain if your wires are short like mine were.
 
#27 ·
A few pictures of the final install.



(parking light only, not at full brightness)


(flanked side marker)


The setup is relatively simple. A socket adapter plugs into the original turn signal plug, which then runs into the CLS box for additional load to prevent hyper flash. From there, power goes to the LED. For some reason, one of the lights wasn't working with parking lights again, and from what I discovered, one of the extension cables I have is to blame. I removed two from one side for simplicity sake and it's working great again. The connections all have dielectric grease and heat shrink or electrical tape on them, so hopefully they will last. The CLS boxes are adhered to a frame piece in the engine bay using 3M auto adhesive tape.
 
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