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P0520 code / oil pressure switch.

31K views 25 replies 6 participants last post by  davebbq 
#1 ·
hey guys! just changed my oil last week for the first time on my 06 5.7 with 69980km on it.donno what oil was in it but i presumed it was dealers since it had a mopar filter and i bought it at a dealer.so i put in mobil1 5w20 in it and a jobber filter witch is very common and use them on some of my customers cars with no problem! so same night i was preparing for a fishing trip i went for some last minute shopping and some gas.i was more on the gas then usual since i was in a hurry so when i left the gas station my check engine light came on code P0520 witch is oil pressure switch.
unpluged battery and made a couple stops on a 250km trip didnt came back on.an hour after arriving at the chalet had to go to the store came on as soon as the truck started.same thing on the way back 5 days later.then when back home went for gas it came on(stays on,i have to unplug the battery to make it go away)and at the gas station the oil light blinked twice inside of a minute.so today i changed the oil filter again in case i got a defect but still the same and the oil light comes on almost everytime i stop for more than 5 seconds.could it be that the oil pressure switch didnt like the oil change??
any ideas?
 
#2 ·
I suspect this is just a coincidence.
Many members have had pressure switch failures......just started acting up one day.
I doubt if your oil change or filter had/has anything to do with it IMO.

Replace the switch....the odds are on your side.

Rob
 
#3 ·
thanks robby! i was getting a little nervous here!! still am but a little less lol
so i hope i can get it tomorrow morning from one of the parts store around here and get this thing in the shop again :D
 
#4 ·
should i wait till monday and try the dealer for the warranty can i void it with a jobber switch?
 
#5 ·
We'll be looking forward to your report back.......In all honesty though, I don't EVER recall a 5.7 having oil pressure/pump issues.....they have a very old design (read virtually bullitproof) oiling system using a rather high volume pump for accurate MDS activation.

Rob
 
#6 ·
You got ahead of me......I doubt there would be a warranty issue using a aftermarket switch.
You likely will end up with a better switch anyways......just my thoughts.

If it is still in full, no charges to you warranty, well, your call.
If you are in a extended warranty situation, Aftermarket is probably less expensive than your deductable.

It could be argued that the switch was exchanged to be certain there was no problem prior to a planned trip over the weekend......doubt if it would ever go that far though.

Rob
 
#7 ·
thanks again robby! i will try the aftermarket switch and if it still the same well ill put the old one back without a trace and up to the dealer since the problem would be somewhere else! so tomorrow morning ill have to find a switch :D
 
#8 ·
well its seems that here in valleyfield auto part stores donno **** about this truck!!
no one can find it!!
can anyone tell me the name of a aftermarket company that makes it and the part number??
thanks
 
#9 ·
hey guys! just changed my oil last week for the first time on my 06 5.7 with 69980km on it.
A little overdue for the first oil change? I'm assuming you mean the first time you changed the oil "YOURSELF" was at 69,980km? You've had the dealer or a shop change it at least every 7k miles or 11k km?

If you've really waited to 70k km to change the oil for the first time in your motor, it might NOT be the oil pressure switch, that may be the actual oil pressure in your motor.

I agree with Robby, likely a coincidence, if this is your first switch to synthetic, maybe that was a change that tipped a sensor going bad over to malfunction. Regardless, its because the sensor is bad NOT the oil.

Whats this "jobber" filter you speak? I don't see how an oil filter would ruin a sensor, BUT, some of the crappy orange frams can create low oil pressure on engine starts.
 
#10 ·
no no its MY first oil change on it .bought it last october.only did about 2000km with it since then. the jobber filter was a auto xtra sold at uni select around here but now its a ac delco on it
 
#11 ·
ive found on ebay a standard ps-404 but it only says fits jeep commander
no years no models and no engine infos.
can anyone confirm that this is what i need?
 
#13 ·
well theres a lot of false information with the aftermarket side. a lot of company says its dhe same on the 4.7 and 5.7 and sells the ps-404 for exemple (this is the smpcorp standard company) but it has only 1 pin in it but on the 06 hemi theres 3 pins so i dug a little found the mopar part number on here and did a cross refference on the smpcorp standard site and came up with a PS-418 witch is exactly like mine with 3 pins but according to the vehicule list its not for the commander but for chargers or some 300c or a ram lol
so i ordered one at my usual supplier i should have monday morning well see!!
btw the one on the truck right now is in brass with standard bolt like sides and has a white plastic.is it the original??
thanks
 
#14 ·
Well, in most cases the sensors on the engine are the same for the same engine, regardless what vehicle you put the motor in. Sure, there are exceptions, but most likely its the same for the 5.7L in a Charger and 300 as in a Commander.

Go to the rockauto.com website and look up the sensor for both vehicles see if they are the same aftermarket part number, that would confirm it.
 
#15 ·
from rockauto.com thx!

AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S7937 {#5149062AA, 56044777AA, PS598}
w/Light
W/Gauge; w/Gauge
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS418 {#56044777AA} 3 Pin Connector
WITH LIGHT

this is for the 2006 DODGE CHARGER R/T 5.7L 345cid V8 FI (H) OHV
and for the 2006 JEEP COMMANDER LIMITED 5.7L 345cid V8 FI (2) OHV

AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6872 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers05149097AA, 4868672AA, 5149059AA, 5149097AA, PS535}
w/Light
this one (above) for me is false since i dont have a gauge only the light but this one only has a 1 pin connector and i have 3


AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S7937 {#5149062AA, 56044777AA, PS598}
W/Gauge; w/Gauge

so my conclusion is the one above or the standard PS-418
 
#17 ·
ok so far so good with the standard PS-418 no more check engine and oil pressure light! didnt drive it a lot but changed it yesterday afternoon and drove it a couple of times ! took the time to restore the skid plate and bolts too! dawm winters!! it was getting a little too rusty for me so in the sandblast cabinet , primed and painted semi gloss black!! now its nice!

and in an unrelated problem, my A/C wasnt working and i dont play in them not equipped for it but did check if there was something in it and it was empty .only the little pressure the system builds so for sure there was a leak! near the rad theres a little alluminum tube with a black cap on it. its an a/c valve .i was sure by the greassy mess around it that it was leaking from there so went to my freinds shop who specialize in a/c so we sprayed some liquid soap on it after putting pressure in the system and bam! bubbles were coming out.so we replaced this valve with a new one fill her up and another problem solved. 75$ for some cool air not too bad!
 
#18 ·
Well, like I said at the start, these switch's seem to have a high failure rate and these engines seem to never have oiling issues so the odds were with you on that one.

I see a large number of leaking schraeder valves, regardless of brand......just about never saw that on the old R-12 systems......seems like 134-A is kind of tough on em though.

Congrats, two birds with one stone,

Rob
 
#20 · (Edited)
Its NOT only the Commander, oil pressure switches seem fairly common to a lot of vehicles. I'm guessing they either gum up and stick or oil invades into the electrical part of the switch and shorts them out.

With a guage its so much easier to tell if its a bad sensor or really oil pressure itself. The gauge has a much bigger range of reaction then just a light that is off 99.9% of the time. It's a lot more obvious to see that the gauge's reaction is so crazy or changed so drastically it has to be the sensor. The light, you have to scratch you head and worry, maybe the oil pressure is actually that low?
I see a large number of leaking schraeder valves, regardless of brand......just about never saw that on the old R-12 systems......seems like 134-A is kind of tough on em though.
I've never had to top off R-12 systems, R-134a its NOT uncommon to have to top them off. And, I have had surprisingly good results of going around and just tightening up all the fittings on a R-134a system, they didn't need topping off for years after just doing that.

The molecue of R-134a is smaller then R-12, meaning it squeeze out easier, as well, the oil used is different and doesn't circulate as well, so I'm guessing that might be behind it also, seals failing more often, they dry out faster with R-134a? R-134a also coincided with switching to aluminum for a lot of the AC parts, steel thread into aluminum that heat cycles a lot, seems to loosen up a bit over time and needs to be retigthened, that might be behind it also, including the scheader valves.
 
#19 · (Edited)
This is a useful thread.. thanks H311B0Y and robby .. I just had the same symptoms and just replaced the oil pressure switch and its simply gone.
 
#21 ·
I am glad I found a little info on this. My check engine light came on yesterday, did the key dance, and same code.

P 0520

So should I be in the market for one of these switches as well to fix this? Where is the switch at and how do I fix this?

Much appreciated
 
#22 ·
under truck right side of engine(passenger side)easy fix with the right tool.carefull oil will spill so put a pan and wait for the engine to cool so you dont burn yourself.
if you find and image of the part online then you will locate it quick or if you order it first thats quicker lol
 
#23 ·
ohh and without a scan tool the best way is to unplug the negative cable (black) from the battery (this is simply to erase codes stored not mandatory if key is off)go under truck unplug sensor put pan under and unscrew then screw new one (sorry no torque spec not at garage hehe)recheck oil level plug back negative cable and start engine inspect for leaks if none ur done!!

so yeah u need a new switch im almost 100% sure of that!
 
#24 ·
Thanks a lot I aprreciate it. Out of stock at the local auto parts store so I went with rockauto.com and the most expensive one from rock auto is still $10 LESS
 
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