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Modifying Pinch Weld for oversized tires

36K views 35 replies 17 participants last post by  backdoc94 
#1 ·
OK so to get ready for the bigger tires I took tonight to work on the pinch weld.

Most important tool is your BFH, that's my 1/2" drive ratchet next to it for scale purposes. A close second is the pry bar made for removing the plastic rivets. Don't do what I did. I looked at it and thought I can do it without that. I did get the job done but that tool is definitely money well spent.



Jacked up, wheel removed



Wheel well liner removed



Close up of pinch weld and coolant lines



Pinch weld bashed over



After all that I used a can of bedliner I got at Harbor Freight. Gave it three coats and put the liner back in. Since I do not have a rivet gun for the plastic rivets I was only able to put the two on the back and the one that holds the liner to the running board back in. I will be visiting Harbor Freight tomorrow to fix that issue.

I didn't do anything with the coolant lines yet. I am going to wait and see how bad things rub.
 
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#3 ·
You will not have any problem with the A/C lines, I didn't.
 
#4 ·
grinding pinch welds

has any one grinded there pinch welds in the front flush with the body have you had any problems with the body separating. if anyone has pics or any tips that would be great
 
#5 ·
I think it is safe to hammer them but grinding them completely off may not be a good idea. If you grind them down they may not split right away but road vibration may make the whole thing fall apart.
 
#6 ·
so how about grinding them down and then weld the body seams together
 
#8 ·
You may need to add a piece of plate to the ground down area and make a sort of lap weld. I don't think a butt weld will hold up driving down the road if you hit a big bump.
 
#9 · (Edited)
As you can see i neet to cut them off. at full lock and you hit a good size bump you can feel it my wife hates it and wants it fixed LOL:rofl:. I forsee it will still rub when i waste 2-3 hours or more to pound them down

welding a plate after i cut thim flush sounds like a good idea

check out the pics and tell me what you think
they have been cut a bit to help but I just want to hack them the rest of the way off








 
#10 ·
i cut them off haha

so i ground the pinch welds down today beause im tired of it rubbing here are the pics


now to do something about those hoses im thinking about re-running them



insted of a 1/4 inch of clearance i now hace about a 1 inch
 
#11 ·
600 miles later no sign of the body seperating still in good shape will keep everyone posted
 
#12 ·
After installing my spacers and my 265/70/17's, I'm having some rubbing on my front driver's side tire, at the rear where the tire meets the fender flare, near the door hing area. When I turn sharp, the back of the tire hits. I pulled the inner fender back with some wire. It helped but it still rubs, mainly on a square piece that seems molded out.

I'm curious about modifying the pinch weld. First question is the pinch weld in both the front and the back? Most pictures show the coolent lines, which I guess means that is the back. Also, if the pinch weld is behind the inner fender, and the inner fender attaches to the bumper,body,etc. How would changing something behind the inner fender affect what happens on the outside of the inner fender?
 
#13 ·
I'm curious about modifying the pinch weld. First question is the pinch weld in both the front and the back? Most pictures show the coolent lines, which I guess means that is the back. Also, if the pinch weld is behind the inner fender, and the inner fender attaches to the bumper,body,etc. How would changing something behind the inner fender affect what happens on the outside of the inner fender?
You may not need to modify the pinch weld, that will depend on how large of a tire you went with.

The quick fix for the inner fender well is to use a heat gun and reshape the fender well. If this works then you are done, if not then you will need to work on the pinch welds.
 
#14 ·
what can I do about the AC lines?

After removing the plastic rivets what will I need to put it all back together? Will the same plastic rivets go back in? (obviousy if I dont break them or something or will I need new ones or some special tools?)
 
#16 ·
You cant just put them back in? Like removing the grill? I have done that before. I am not sure if you have so you might not know what I mean.
 
#17 ·
I just completed modifying the pinch weld- I think if you were able to get the existing rivets out intact they would not do the job of anchoring the liner up good and tight. When they are used the first time the rivet tool grips and pulls the center pin back towards you, crimping up the rivet against the inner side of the mounting point and then cuts the extra length of the center pin off flush with the rivet. I bought a 20 pack at NAPA for $6.50.(I needed 22- 11 for each side). I borrowed the plastic rivet tool and now the liners are as tight as they were before the mods.
 
#21 ·
This may sound stupid but, is there a place to rent the heat gun or the rivet gun. This will probably be the only time I will ever use either. Also, on molding the inner fender ander smashing the pinch weld, do i need to remove it while using the heat gun, or can i do it while attached?
 
#23 ·
Try your local auto parts store, home depot or maybe even a rental store. I am betting someone would have once to rent for a few hours (auto parts stores have free loaner programs.
 
#22 ·
I got my heat gun from Big Lots for about $15. I have never seen the rivet gun outside of Harbor Freight. Also, I've used both on the same project a couple of times already. it might be nice to have them on hand later too.

I heated the liners on the ground for the basic shape and did touch ups on the car. Use a piece of wood or heavy glove to push on the plastic while heating, then hold it until it cools.
 
#25 ·
Ok, I have a question...sorry if it has been addressed previously. After the smashing of the pinch weld and the reinstall of the liner, wouldn't the liner itself, after being put back on, BE in the exact same place it was prior to the weld being smashed over, resulting in the same rub/noise as before?
Also, I am running the 265/70's, and if I LEAN the truck really quick, without really turning the wheel much (like if you swirved really quickly to avoid a pothole, etc, but didnt come anywhere near making a full turn as to cause the pinchweld to be rubbed) OR if I'm taking an interstate exit loop a little too fast, but barely have the wheel turned---I get this God-awful grinding sound. Any ideas what that may be?
Thanks
 
#26 ·
Ok, I have a question...sorry if it has been addressed previously. After the smashing of the pinch weld and the reinstall of the liner, wouldn't the liner itself, after being put back on, BE in the exact same place it was prior to the weld being smashed over, resulting in the same rub/noise as before?
Yes, that is why we recommend that you use a heat gun and reshape the liner.
 
#27 ·
Perfect, thank you. The Commander is far more involved to lift than my old blazer. I agree that it looks best to just own them both, hopefully i can get pics of the completed project up in the next week or two
 
#28 ·
Holaday it isnt too bad. For a cheap lift like the Rough Country and then just pounding pinch weld and reshaping wheel well liner with heat gun it is awesome. It is just a little weekend project. Just overwhelming at first. It is wierd looking at my posts from a year ago on this project
 
#29 ·
Reshaping fender wells

Can anyone post pics of their fender wells reshaped and maybe a step by step? I have an '06 limited with a rocky road 2.5" lift and 265/70/17 BFG AT's on Rubicon take off wheels. I also have the spidertrax spacers. Everything I read here and elsewhere said spacers, lift, modify the pinch weld and you won't rub. My tires rubbed so bad that I took a sawsall and cut a 5"x5" square out of the back side of both fender liners. I would like to see if I could buy more and mold them and replace my hacked up ones with these. Also, I am the one with the crazy squeak on the right front that nobody can seem to identify. Did any of you have to switch to longer control arms with your lifts bc of problems with the front struts being kind of forced to a bad angle? This is all I can think at this point. Thanks.
 
#30 ·
No other modifications are needed then what you mentioned. No rubbing is not guaranteed depending on width and backspacing or offset of the wheel and the size of the spacer.

If you do get new liners just heat up that portion that sticks out on the lower back and make it all smoothed out. Sorry I do not have pics
 
#31 ·
NOLAJPR,

You will rub at full lock with that set up (slightly).

First off, you have not pounded your pinch welds... is that correct? If so, it's an absolute must and about a 10 minute job.

Two important things about shaping the plastic with a heat gun. 1) use a stick of some kind to push the plastic into shape while heating it with the gun. 2) hold it to that shape while it cools.
 
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