My LED turn signals are also not working properly. They hyperflash with no lights on (unless in hazard mode), won't flash at all in parking light or headlight mode. CarID recommended resistors, however I do not have the patience or desire to try to wire that in. It is way too cramped in that space, but I haven't done anything like that before. Will be returning them sadly.
I would encourage you to take a day, and take the front apart and get better access to the vehicles. There is a thread on here about removing the Front Bumper/Face. This is allow you better access to place the new LED bulbs, and better access to the needed wires in order to place the resistors.
With the right LED bulbs, it REALLY can make a difference and show your vehicle off when using the signals or marker lights. I would encourage you to spend a little more and purchase the bulbs with the most LED surfaces possible. Since the LED Bulbs are shorter and don't throw light in all directions like incandescent bulbs, by adding more LED surface you allow the reflective housing to do the work for you.
In my opinion, it really is worth the effort. And once they and the resistors are in, it is highly unlikely would will need to change them out during the life of the vehicle or while you own it.
Only issue is, it's winter right now. Could wait till Spring, but that also leaves the issue that getting my push bar on in the front was an absolute pain. So I'd have to take that off, then get the bumper off, then figure out how to wire the resistors on. The LEDs I have are 27 per bulb, so it's quite a bit. It did look fantastic, but I guess I'll just have to live with having rear LEDs only.
That is, unless you can tell me what resistors need to go where, and how to do that. I'd have to cut wires, re-solder, and shrink wrap, right?
I apologize on taking so long in getting back. I just got home from Argentina. I was wrong. Prior to me leaving, I installed the LED lights and was under the impression they were working. Mine worked fine with out the headlights on. So I thought everything was working fine. But, tonight I turned on the headlights, and yeah they did not work right. I will be contacting carid tomorrow and getting a solution to it or getting my money back.. I will keep you informed.
__________________ 2006 Jeep Commander Limited 4.7L QD II.....[I]4in Super lift Supension lift, AEM Brute Force CAI, Defender Roof Rack, 285 70R17 ProComp Xtreme Mud Terrain tires, Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels, Rear grab handles, superchips flashpaq tuned for 91 octane, polished throttle body, RCV performance CV Axles, 4X Guard belly guard, 2" receiver and front guard, Rear bilstein 7100 shocks, rocky road upper control arms with moog 3/4 ton ball joints and borla cat back exhaust.
Man, I'm really sorry about everything. When I put them in, I had everything changed over to LED's. everything worked during the day light, ie headlights not on. Well last night, I went out and tried it with the headlights on, and everything went crazy. It did the hyper flash. But when the headlights are off, they worked fine. Probably because I had LEDs in the front and rear. Well I did call them, the one tech rep started off saying I could install a resistor to trick the system into working. I was on board with doing that, but then he stated talking to one of the electrical guys that works there that had a jeep. Ends up that our jeeps have the "CAN Bus II", and the resistor will not work. Now I'm sending them back.
__________________ 2006 Jeep Commander Limited 4.7L QD II.....[I]4in Super lift Supension lift, AEM Brute Force CAI, Defender Roof Rack, 285 70R17 ProComp Xtreme Mud Terrain tires, Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels, Rear grab handles, superchips flashpaq tuned for 91 octane, polished throttle body, RCV performance CV Axles, 4X Guard belly guard, 2" receiver and front guard, Rear bilstein 7100 shocks, rocky road upper control arms with moog 3/4 ton ball joints and borla cat back exhaust.
and adding the option for 20W resistors. Do you think that would work? Obviously it's very pricey, but worth it so I don't have to do the work, and the system is high quality.
Last edited by Nitemare3219; 01-14-2013 at 02:41 PM.
The can bus/computer of the vehicle doesn't matter because once the resistors are attached (as described in the instructions) the LED's act JUST like a typical filament-incandescent bulb (because they draw relatively the same power as a standard bulb) and thus the truck doesn't know the difference. My read LED's work perfectly ALL the time.
My front ones are on the bench with the whole assembly right now pending angel eye insertions. But worked FINE. Lights on or off.
Ah, well I just did the unthinkable and paid for the v3 Tritons along with their CLS module for load resistance. Hopefully these lights are beautiful and work flawlessly for $150!
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