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Fluid Capacities / Discussion Thread

144K views 118 replies 31 participants last post by  jeep5253 
#1 ·
just for Quick Reference. since the owners manual sucks.

i just changed my transmission and transfer case 2 days ago.

Transmission and Transfer Case:

5.7L V8 and 4.7L V8- QT2 and QD2

Transmission- 6.5 QTS fully synthetic ATF+4

Transfer Case- 3.5 QTS fully synthetic ATF+4

3.7L V6 Transmission and Transfer Case QT1


Engines- (oil capacity)

3.7L V6 5qts Engine Oil

4.7L V8 6qts Engine Oil

5.7L V8 7qts Engine Oil

Differentials oil Capacity

Front 1.5qts 75W140 (GL5)

Rear 2.5qts 75W140 (GL5)
 
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#72 ·
I changed out my rear differential fluid today (to fix the leaky cover, courtesy of Rausch Creek bolders). When re-filling, it only took two quarts of oil (plus 8oz of friction modifier) before overflowing. Elsewhere on this thread it states that the rear diff on the Hemi with QDII and ELSD should take 2.5 qts, plus the friction modifier.

Should I run it with only two quarts? Or should I back up a ramp to tilt the axle forward and get the extra half quart into the fill hole? Any experience with this (since this is a capacity thread, after all!) please chime in...
 
#73 ·
According to the info I have you should have only used 4 oz. of friction additive per axle. Since you used 8 oz that other 4 oz would account for some of the gear oil that would have been used. Also im not sure how your QD II differs from my QT II axle, but according to the owners manual for my XK it says your not supposed to fill the rear end with fluid until it pours out. Its supposed to be like 1/2 from the fill hole or something like that. Id have to check out the owners manual to get the exact spec. So if I were you i'd look into that. But I definately wouldnt recomend putting it up on a ramp and adding more fluid. You will over fill it.




200mm (front)

200mm (front, ELSD*)

213mm (rear)

213mm (rear, ELSD*)


226mm (rear, SRT8)


C200F
57.5 oz (± 2 oz.)

C200FE
57.5 oz (± 2 oz.)

C213R
70.0 oz. (± 2 oz.)
C213RE
75.5 oz. (± 2 oz.)

226RBI (Dana 44)
76.0 oz. (± 2 oz.)
All models, all axles:
Mopar® SAE 75W-140 Synthetic (API-GL5)
Mopar p/n 04874469 (MSRP $30.00)

*NOTE: Electronic (ELSD) axles require 118 ml (4 ounces) of Limited Slip Additive be added to the lubricant. ELSD axles are standard with Quadra-Drive II.

SRT8 models DO NOT require Limited Slip Additive.

Front and rear axle drain plug torque: 44 ft. lbs/60 N·m
Front axle cover bolts: 41 ft. lbs/56 N·m
Rear axle cover bolts: 30 ft. lbs/41 N·m
 
#74 ·
Oops. I suppose a little extra modifier won't hurt anything - I hope.

Even with the extra 4 oz it is still well under 2.5 qts added. Maybe there is a slight slope on my garage floor that caused it to reach the fill hole sooner - I'll turn it the jeep around and see if any comes out when I open the fill cover again.

Will any warning lights come on to indicate if I have too much or too little in there?
 
#75 ·
Extra friction additive wont hurt anything.

There isnt any warning lights that come on to indicate wether you have to much or to little fluid in the diffs.

If I recall correctly my rear axle didnt require exactly what the owners manual stated that it would take.
 
#76 ·
If he used a half a quart less of oil (16oz's), but then added an extra 4oz's of additive, he should still be 12oz's shy if my math is right. 2 1/2 qts = 80oz's + 4oz's = 84oz's,
He put in 2 quarts = 64oz + 8oz's = 72oz's, 84 - 72 = 12oz's
 
#79 ·
I realize that the extra 4 oz. didnt totally account for the other 1/2 quart that he wasnt able to get in. Thats why I said when I did my rear differential I dont remember using exactly the amount they stated you would need either.

Ok. Our Commanders sit stock with the nose end down and the tail end up in the air. Our lifts pretty much level them out, effectively causing the rear diff oil fill hole to begin leaking out when we fill it, QUICKER right---because the rear end end dipped downward because of the leveling out??? It seems like we'd wind up using less oil due to this right? Just a thought.
I dont think its due to this theory because my commander still sits nose down just like when it was stock. I believe that the rear axle is supposed to take 2.5 qts. when the axle is bone dry and the reason why we can't get all 2.5 qts. in is because there is still old fluid in the axle tubes that didnt totally drain out. Just my .02
 
#77 ·
Ok. Our Commanders sit stock with the nose end down and the tail end up in the air. Our lifts pretty much level them out, effectively causing the rear diff oil fill hole to begin leaking out when we fill it, QUICKER right---because the rear end end dipped downward because of the leveling out??? It seems like we'd wind up using less oil due to this right? Just a thought.
 
#78 ·
Good point. Along with a slightly sloped garage floor that might do it.

If my diff explodes on the highway I'll let you know!

By the way Danny, thanks for your post of the diff takedown earlier this month. It was invaluable for me!
 
#81 ·
Regarding fluid capacity 07, I believe you are correct.
Most published capacities are for initial fill of a new or rebuilt assembly.

The manufacturer usually also has a published full point.
For example, the 1/4 inch below fill/check hole is considered the full point.
Final drive units though generally don't seem affected if slightly overfilled and the discussion/concern rarely comes up.

Rob
 
#83 ·
Reference the transfer case capacity of the QT2. One poster says
Transfer Case- 3.5 QTS fully synthetic ATF+4. And another poster says TRANSFER CASE

NV140 (QT-I) : 0.65L (1.4 pts.)
NV245 (QT-II & QD-II): 1.8L (3.8 pts.)

So who is correct? I did mine today and it took lest than 2 quarts. I stopped when it began to overfill. If you pump to fast it will began to overfill on the first quart and make you think it's full. Someone said 10 minutes...HA..it took me longer than that to get all my stuff together, find the plugs and proceed to stain my concrete...Gawd I hate that. Oh well, it's done..tomorrow the differentials..then I'm good to go for a couple of years not counting oil changes..Damn, I love this beast.
HT
 
#84 ·
I filled up both my diffs and the T case until fluid started dripping from the fill hole ... I just could not bear to have less fluid in them than that.

That was a few months ago and no troubles
 
#85 ·
Ok, about to do my 50k service soon. Went to Meijer and picked up 12qts of Valvoline ATF +4, from what I've read, this is the best to use. Then went to advance auto and picked up M1 75-140 gear oil at $20 a quart. I plan on changing both diffs and the transmission oil.

I know its not possible to get all the trans fluid out, but is there a way to get out more than whats in the pan.

Also does the what fluid does the transfer case use???
 
#88 ·
the only was to get all the fluid out of the transmission is to do a flush or drop the tranny. The easiest way to do that is let some one else do it. Or get creative you will need to disconnect the cooling lines put the inlet one in fresh fluid and the out let into a bucket and idle the engine until the fluid coming out looks like the fluid going in. I would just pay the money they have a machine that does this for you in like 6 minuets. Oh if you do try this your going to have to put your new fluid in a big bucket!! to be sucked out of please rig a filter of some kind to your inlet hose.
 
#86 ·
I have a concern regarding the tranny fill spec. It was stated that normal tranny service (QD2) would require 6.5 quarts, both here and in my manual. I put in 6 and warmed it up, showed low, so I added half a quart, still showed low.. I have now put in all 7 quarts on the refill and it's still showing about half way between the cold and hot marks on the stick. And this was after 100 mile drive so it *should* have been plenty warm.

I am checking the level with the engine idling and tranny in neutral. As far as I recall, this is the proper method for checking tranny level; it even states this procedure on the dipstick.
 
#87 ·
I have a concern regarding the tranny fill spec. It was stated that normal tranny service (QD2) would require 6.5 quarts, both here and in my manual. I put in 6 and warmed it up, showed low, so I added half a quart, still showed low.. I have now put in all 7 quarts on the refill and it's still showing about half way between the cold and hot marks on the stick. And this was after 100 mile drive so it *should* have been plenty warm.

I am checking the level with the engine idling and tranny in neutral. As far as I recall, this is the proper method for checking tranny level; it even states this procedure on the dipstick.
That's a tough one ... peronaly I'd 'go by' the dipstick
 
#90 ·
Also I changed my transfer case fluid today, it only took just shy of a quart to refill. I didn't realize the transfer case was so small.

That would be the 140J New Process transfer case, and the 3.7 liter V6.
 
#91 ·
I've read in numerous places that ATF+4 is Synthetic ATF, you would think that they would advertise that on the bottle.

Shop different dealerships, like service and parts, some have outrageous mark-ups on products, some have reasonable mark-ups. OR Just get ATF+4 at the local auto store, its the same thing.

From what I understand, Friction Modifier reduces the "Slipperiness" of the Oil so that the clutches and friction surfaces can engage faster and smoother. It only reduces it slightly and NOT enough to really compromise the oil.

*So, if you added Friction Modifier and didn't need it, do NOT worry, it does NOT reduce "slipperness" to a level that should worry you at all.

*If you don't need Friction Modifier, don't use it, as well as a waste of money, it can only help to have slippery oil for differentials that do NOT have frictions surfaces or clutches.

*If you do need Friction Modifier, DO USE IT, the ELSD has clutches in it and without the friction modifier they will NOT engage properly and NOT only will the ELSD NOT work properly, likely the clutches will wear out much quicker.
 
#92 · (Edited)
What I learned draining and flushing my Power Steering.

Power Steering:
Service Fill: <1 Quart (guessing 24 ounces) MS-10383 (only available from the Dealer)

This was in a 2010 w/ 3.7L and QTI system. It does have a PS Cooler and do believe all Commanders have the same system, BUT I'm NOT positive on that.

I used several ounces to flush with fresh fluid and spill some too. The point was, I bought 2 quarts of fluid and only needed 1 quart total, even with a flush and spilling it. Considering it costs $15-$30 a quart only from the dealer, NOT having to buy a 2nd quart, if you can avoid it, is worth while.

[EDIT] I have since learned the HEMI Commanders have a Hydraulically Driven Radiator Fan, the Hydraulic power comes from the Power Steering system. As I understand it, its just an additional hydrualic circuit off the PS system. Logically, this would increase the volume of the PS system and you likely will need more than 1 quart of PS fluid to flush and replace all the fluid, I'm guessing and do NOT know the actual amounts.

Also, logically, this extra hydrualic driven fan would add to the stress on the PS fluid, so I would give even more weight to the consideration of changing PS fluid eventually on your Commander if you have the Hydrualic fan.

Also, and I'm really go out on a limb here, since the Commander specifies a new PS fluid, NOT avialable aftermarket yet, I "wonder" if it is because of the hydrualic fan and just for simplicity sake they fill all commanders with the same fluid, i.e. if you don't have the hydrualic fan you could use the older spec, more common PS Fluid. I could be very wrong on that, and considering the cost of replacing a PS system on a Commander, I would play it safe and just get the specified fluid, i.e. pay more for it at the dealer.
 
#94 ·
What I learned draining and flushing my Power Steering.

Power Steering:
Service Fill: <1 Quart (guessing 24 ounces) MS-10383 (only available from the Dealer)

This was in a 2010 w/ 3.7L and QTI system. It does have a PS Cooler and do believe all Commanders have the same system, BUT I'm NOT positive on that.

I used several ounces to flush with fresh fluid and spill some too. The point was, I bought 2 quarts of fluid and only needed 1 quart total, even with a flush and spilling it. Considering it costs $15-$30 a quart only from the dealer, NOT having to buy a 2nd quart, if you can avoid it, is worth while.
Just curious why you flushed the Power Steering fluid on a new 2010 XK?
 
#93 ·
What I learned bleeding and flushing my Brakes.

Brake System:
Flush the System by Bleeding: 1.5 Quart DOT3 (NOT including ABS Pump)

Does NOT include ABS, you'll need a dealer tool to operate the ABS pump to bleed it, new fluid will circulate into the pump when the ABS operates, so its reasonable to flush the system and NOT take it to the dealer to flush the ABS pump, eventually fresh fluid will work its way through. I can't imagine the ABS pump trapping more than a few ounces of fluid.

Remember, DOT4 has a higher dry boiling point, but a lower wet boiling point than DOT3, DOT4 absorbs moisture faster than DOT3. If the vehicle specs call for DOT3, its better to use DOT3 than DOT4.

I use Castrol GTLMA, its a different formulation, they call it synthetic, but its synthetic like a lot of oils sold over the counter are synthetic, it is easier on the seals and parts, performs better than DOT4 and absorbs moisture slower than DOT3, its the best of all worlds for just a couple bucks more.

This was in a 2010 w/ 3.7L and QTI system. I believe all Commanders have the same brake system, BUT I'm NOT positive on that.

I installed Speed Bleeders, Bleeder Screw Size:
*M10-1.0, 31.35mm length (Front and Rear)
*Speed Bleeder part num SB1010S
*Russell part num RUS-639630

My preferance for bleeding the brakes, makes it much quicker and easier, never got air in the system using these and it only takes one person to do the whole job. There are other ways to bleed brakes and different people have different preferences.

Unlike the Power Steering, I bought only 1 Quart of Brake Fluid and had to go back and get a 2nd Quart. You'll need to purchase 2 quarts to do this job, you'll have some left over to keep on the shelf.
 
#95 ·
I bought only 1 Quart of Brake Fluid and had to go back and get a 2nd Quart. You'll need to purchase 2 quarts to do this job, you'll have some left over to keep on the shelf.
I keep half container of break fluid myself all the time ... but the manufactures don't recommend it .. they all say to open a FRESH container.

What about you guys? Do you use Break Fluid from a partial container?
 
#96 ·
I've used an open bottle of brake fluid before without any problems. My father and brother are both mechanics and do it all the time.
 
#98 ·
As far as amounts are concerned I followed the SM and put pretty much right down to the ounce what the manual called for and all the fluid in the diffs and TC are sitting right below the refill hole. I also used teflon tape on the drain plugs. Another thing I did do to lack of service records with my XK was I removed the fill plug first just to make sure I could get it out my oil plug when I first got it was almost stuck on just a precaution.

This is the Transfer case oil I used
Wynn’s Synthetic
Transfer Case/Manual Transmission Fluid
Part Number 66303 - (6 x 64 oz case)


Formulated for use in all transfer case and manual transmission applications specifying ATF or GL-1 thru GL-4 gear oils. In addition, this fluid is recommended for use in the following OEM specific applications:

GM P/N 12345349
Ford P/N D80Z19C547A and ESRY 19C547
Chrysler P/N 4773167
Mercedes-Benz P/N 900260315
This is what the local shop had so I picked it up it was almost $40 bucks so I'm assuming by the price its a pretty good product:ugh2:
 
#99 ·
I am definitely going to sound pretty new by asking ..again, but here goes.

We have a 2006 Commander 5.7L 4wd and want to change the fluids and keep finding different capacities for some of the fluids. Here is what I am looking for:

Front diff - 1.5 qts
Rear diff - 2.5 qts

T Case - MOPAR Only as I have read - 3.5qts

Transmission - ATF +4 only 6.5 qts

Are my amounts correct?

What are thoughts on types of fluids to use for the above items? I see some using full synthetic, some using it with an additive, some using the MOPAR versions rather than aftermarket, etc.

I am just trying to gather the thoughts into one post rather than me see several different options and capacities through multiple posts.
 
#100 ·
I am definitely going to sound pretty new by asking ..again, but here goes.

We have a 2006 Commander 5.7L 4wd and want to change the fluids and keep finding different capacities for some of the fluids. Here is what I am looking for:

Front diff - 1.5 qts
Rear diff - 2.5 qts

T Case - MOPAR Only as I have read - 3.5qts

Transmission - ATF +4 only 6.5 qts

Are my amounts correct?

What are thoughts on types of fluids to use for the above items? I see some using full synthetic, some using it with an additive, some using the MOPAR versions rather than aftermarket, etc.

I am just trying to gather the thoughts into one post rather than me see several different options and capacities through multiple posts.
Check your owners manual, it should list all the capacities for you vehicle. If you don't have one, you can download one for free from Jeep's website.

The capacity will vary from year to year and what equipment/options you have.

Front Diff is 57.5oz or 1Qt 25.5oz or 1.8Qt
Rear Diff is 76oz or 2Qt 12oz or 2.4Qt

Both combined is 127.5oz or just a half oz short of a gallon.

Transfer Case, the Commander has two different ones. The NV140 for the QT1 Commanders is just short of a whole QT and uses ATF+4. The other transfer case, go with what your O.M. says, check for a TSB, I think Chrysler switched the fluid for it, to a special Dealer fluid that helps it engage better with less noise.

Transmission, varies with what trans you have, with a 545RFE, I think the 6.5 Qt sounds right, but check your O.M., the proper way to service it to drop the pan and replace whats in the pan with the filter, NOT all the fluid. So you're just going to refill till you hit the proper level in the trans, that typically will be 6.5QT in the 545RFE, it may be a little more or less.
 
#101 ·
Need a little guidance on getting a proper ID on a transfer case and diffs.
I have an 08 w/ the 6 cyl and Quadra Trac 1.
How do I confirm the transfer case and diffs? The transfer case is an NV140 correct?
I'm getting ready to do fluid changes and santed to make sure I have everything straight before I buy fluids.
Thanks
 
#103 ·
Need a little guidance on getting a proper ID on a transfer case and diffs.
I have an 08 w/ the 6 cyl and Quadra Trac 1.
How do I confirm the transfer case and diffs? The transfer case is an NV140 correct?
I'm getting ready to do fluid changes and santed to make sure I have everything straight before I buy fluids.
Thanks
Yes, the QT I uses the NV140 transfer case.

The QT II and QD II use the NV247 (from memory, correct me if I'm wrong)

The NV140 is much smaller than the NV247, but if you don't have a lot of experience with xfr cases, the NV140 might look really big to you. Search for pictures of the two xfr cases, once you have pictures to compare the two you'll see the difference in relative size, and one look at your xfr case and you'll know if its the smaller NV140 or bigger NV247.

Another good clue, the NV140 has a damper bolted to the back of it, it looks like a 3 legged stool on its side with a big cylinder on the stool (rubber and a weight are in the cylinder). It is over the drain plug, its easiest to just unbolt the damper instead of trying to work around it, its unlikely you've got an allen wrench that will fit under the damper.

The NV247 doesn't need a damper because it is so large and heavy it dampens the vibrations itself. But it has an electric motor that is a big cylinder bolted to it, don't mistake a motor for a damper. A damper doesn't have an electrical connector and a motor isn't mounted on a three legged stool to stand it off from the body of the xfr case, as well a motor wouldn't be mounted over a drain plug.

My NV140 required less than a quart of fluid, recommended ATF+4, but I used AMSOIL Synthetic Mulit-Vehicle ATF (which specifically states it meets and exceeds all ATF+4 specs).

ATF+4 is a superior quality synthetic fluid, never use other ATF's in replacement for it unless it is one of the few high quality synthetics that specifically states it meets and exceeds all of ATF+4 specs.
 
#102 · (Edited)
This was way to hard to figure out.

So I was getting confused with all this trying to figure out what I actually need. Between mis-printed user manuals, conflicting threads and people getting bad advice I put this together for myself and thought I'd share thinking maybe it could help someone else. I based all the amounts off the factory service manual and added a bit to clarify. The sticky for this fluids leads here, hence posting in the old thread, and the sticky itself still shows the bad info that started my confusion. I'm pretty darn sure everything here's is accurate but if I screwed something up let me know so I can correct it.



Link for amsoil axle fluid
 
#107 ·
I've done with and without. I still use it whenever possible, but I got water in the rear diff one time and needed to change fluids without the additive, and had no problems.
 
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