3.7 L: 4.7 L (5.0 qts.)
4.7 L: 5.6 L (6.0 qts.)
5.7 L: 6.6 L (7.0 qts.)
3.0 L Diesel: 9.5 L (10.0 qts.)
COOLING SYSTEM (Includes 0.9L (1.0 qts.) for coolant reservoir)
3.7 L: 10.0 L (9 qts.)
4.7 L: 13.7 L (14.5 qts.)
5.7 L: 13.7 L (14.5 qts.)
3.0 L Diesel: 13.2 L (14.0 qts.)
A/C REFRIGERANT SYSTEM
Single Unit: 0.68 kg (1.50 lbs.)
Dual Unit: 0.963 kg (2.125 lbs.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Service Fill - 545RFE: 2WD - 5.2 L (11 pts.), 4WD - 6.2 L (13 pts.)
Service Fill - NAG1: 5.0 L (10.6 pts.)
Overhaul Fill - 545RFE: 13.33 L (28.0 pts.)†
Overhaul Fill - NAG1: 7.7 L (16.3 pts)
the fluid was brown. and there was quite a bit of silver particles in it. it might just be the first time it has ever been changed. it only took about 10 minutes to change and refill. i changed mine at 40K miles.
my transmission was shifting really hard. when i would put it in reverse, it would clunk in . it would take a few seconds between shifts.
now everything is very smooth. almost like new. the tranny took me a few hours because i let every drop of fluid out. and the filter seal was a pain to get out.
the fluid was brown. and there was quite a bit of silver particles in it. it might just be the first time it has ever been changed. it only took about 10 minutes to change and refill. i changed mine at 40K miles.
my transmission was shifting really hard. when i would put it in reverse, it would clunk in . it would take a few seconds between shifts.
now everything is very smooth. almost like new. the tranny took me a few hours because i let every drop of fluid out. and the filter seal was a pain to get out.
How did you fill the transfer case? I was thinking of doing this eventually but not sure how to get up in there. Was going to have the stealer do it. I'm assuming you did this similarly to engine oil? let it get warm/hot and get all the crap in suspension?
The Way I have always tried (not always possible) to change my Transmission fluid is to disconnect one of the trans cooler lines, and using 2 5 gallon buckets, pour all the fresh fluid in one and put the suction side of the line into the fluid (with little filter) and then have the output just pump into the empty bucket. Start the car and let it idle, and it will pump and flush the system. If you watch the color of the fluid you will see when you have fully flushed the whole system torque converter and all. It uses a bit more fluid, but you get the whole system.
The Way I have always tried (not always possible) to change my Transmission fluid is to disconnect one of the trans cooler lines, and using 2 5 gallon buckets, pour all the fresh fluid in one and put the suction side of the line into the fluid (with little filter) and then have the output just pump into the empty bucket. Start the car and let it idle, and it will pump and flush the system. If you watch the color of the fluid you will see when you have fully flushed the whole system torque converter and all. It uses a bit more fluid, but you get the whole system.
So the transmission and transfer case use the exact same fluid? I thought you could use any tranny fluid (i.e.) synth. mobil1, RP, etc., but the tranfer case used a Mopar ONLY fluid you HAD to get at the stealer???
I think that information that was posted was wrong. The Transfer Case doesnt take Full Synthetic ATF. It uses the Mopar ONLY fluid you were refering to. As for the Transmission im not sure as I have not messed with mine yet. I swapped out the T-Case fluid at 30,000 miles and it still looked brand new.
This was posted by ROMEO in a thread I found and definately states that the Mopar gear oil is synthetic.
It looks like they did use friction additive in your rear differential. Towards the bottom it says 1 4318060AB Lubricant. I cross referenced that part number on www.makeitjeepparts.com and it says it comes back to an additive for the rear end. So im assuming thats the friction additive.
I was told by the dealer that we need to use friction modifer additive due to the viscous coupler in the rear differential.
This was posted by ROMEO in a thread I found and definately states that the Mopar gear oil is synthetic.
It looks like they did use friction additive in your rear differential. Towards the bottom it says 1 4318060AB Lubricant. I cross referenced that part number on www.makeitjeepparts.com and it says it comes back to an additive for the rear end. So im assuming thats the friction additive.
I was told by the dealer that we need to use friction modifer additive due to the viscous coupler in the rear differential.
Good info! Thank you. Now I DO hae QT II right lol??? Also they used their (Mopar) trans fluid for the flush/drain. I suppose there is no sense in changing out 3500 mile-old "reg" trans fluid for synthetic right? I guess I can just wait another 12K (45K total) to change to synthetic. It is HOT where I live (112 degrees today)and I was conerned b/c it will only get hotter over the net couple months.
A guy at the local dealership by me told me that it takes the ATF +4 when I went to pick up some fluid for it. I hope that he's not full of crap because thats what I've got in there now. I used Valvoline ATF+4 because the dealership wanted 30 flippin dollars a quart for the mopar stuff.
The fluid I got from the dealer for the transfer case definately wasnt ATF +4. This is right out of the PDF File.... 3.7 liter uses ATF+4, 4.7 and 5.7 uses Mopar Transfer Case Fluid.
Transfer case drain plug torque: 15-25 ft. lbs/20-34 N·m
30,000 mi.
NV245
Quadra-Trac II and
Quadra-Drive II
3.8 pts. (60.8 oz./1.9 qts.) Transfer Case Fluid
Mopar NV245/247/249 (p/n 05016796AB MSRP $11.95)
(Usage of other fluids/lubricants is not recommended)
Transfer case drain plug torque: 15-25 ft. lbs/20-34 N·m
I have a question. I was going to change my front diff. fluid today until I looked in the owners manual and read that BOTH the front and reat take an additive as well as the 75-140 synthetic gear oil. Did I read that right? I have QTII, btw. I thought I only needed the additive/friction modifier in the rear???? Do I need it in the front as well, or just a good synthetic 75-140??? I left the oil right there in the store b/c EVERY single friction modifier additive I picked up at Autozone or Pep Boys OR Checkers said "not for use in Jeeps with QTII or QD II" I wanted to change this out tonight dammit, lol. Anyone on line now that can help out b4 they all close?
Well, thanks. I went out and bought two quarts of the M1 75-140 (it says it already has the additive in it) and was going to do it tonight with a couple big lights. Like I said, I am only doing the front, as the rear got done about 3500 miles ago at the stealership. Do you think I'll be allrght just switching out the fluid to the M1?
Yeah, lol, I got this little 7 dollar pump thing made by Pennzoil for fluid exchange, etc. I saw another thread tonight where a guy from here used M1 AND went to get two bottles of the additive from the dealer and added it to both front AND rear. :ugh2:You say you added NO additive to EITHER diff.? On another note, since I JUST had my reardone by the dealer with the Mopar stuff plus the additive-----HOW much better do uthink the M1 is?? SHould I just wait another 13kto chngethe rear out to M1 then? THey just did mytranny too with NON synthetic ATF----changed the filter and the whole 9. Was wondering if I should get that fluid replaced with M1 now or just do EVERYTHING inluding the transfer case (which) WASN'T done @ 30 k btw) all at 45 k miles?? I am at 33500 now.
Oh and what's up with the manual???? The way it is worded it doesn't say ANYTHING about ONLY needing the additive in the rear. THAT plus the dealers are telling people to put it i(additive) in the front TOO when they sell the Mopar stuff!
For QDiII Dodge spicifys the friction modifier ... so like everyone else i will just put it in.
BUT I find it interesting that the manufactuerer of the diferentials (The Eaton Corporation) ... states in all it's literature that ...
"The The EGerodisc hydraulically-operated electronically controlled limited slip differential that provides variable torque up to full axle lock .... uses standard gear oil and is virtualy maintanence free."
It's probablly because they are trying to make as much money off of us as they can. Last time I checked, an electronic limited slip differential shouldn't need friction additive. They are hydraulically-operated limited slip differentials. Usually limited slips that use clutch packs take the friction additive.
Well, I changed the front diff oil this weekend using M1. I did NOT add any additive to the front, though. I mean, as stated above, the company that makes them says it only needs regular oil, plus, the M1 states it is for LS and has the additive in it already. When I change the rear (it was just done 3500 miles ago at the dealer with Mopar product) over to M1, I will add the dealer additive just to be sure, but I am not taking it all down, since the dealer just did that and cleaned it out, sealed it, etc. I'm just going to drain and refill with the M1 and the dealer additive.
I think you got yourself confused with a different discussion a few posts back in this thread. We were talking about the Eaton EGerodisc Electronic Limited Slip Differential found in the QDII. Yeggster had mentioned that according to Eaton there is no special oil or additive needed for the differential, however Jeep states you need friction additive for both differentials.
For our application (QT II) friction additive is not required for the front differential. However the dealer supposedly states that we need additive for the rear differential due to the Viscous Coupler in the rear diff. Who knows if thats true or not. I dont know much about "Viscous Couplers".
the transfer case is what the front end of the driveshaft is connected to, right? It has two recessed hex screw-plugs for drain and fill like the front diff, correct? And you would drain/fill just like the front diff, right?
So I would follow these directions to the letter? What about the driving in 4-low afterwards like the guy mentioned?
the transfer case is what the front end of the driveshaft is connected to, right? It has two recessed hex screw-plugs for drain and fill like the front diff, correct? And you would drain/fill just like the front diff, right?
So I would follow these directions to the letter? What about the driving in 4-low afterwards like the guy mentioned?
Yes the transfer case is connected to the other end of the front drive shaft, opposite the front differential. All you simply do is drain the fluid using the drain plug and the refill the t-case using the fill plug. Its very simple. I dont think the whole 4 low thing is necessary. Id hate to put to much fluid in it.
I was at the dealer a couple minutes ago and found this sitting on the self. Mopar ATF +4 is fully synthetic! I took a pic of the bottle with my cell phone. Also the T-Case fluid is Fully Synthetic too!
How do they not know what they did? They do the same thing to every commander when they come in for a differential service. That guy needs to be fired.
Just a thought. Concerning the discussion on the additive for the rear end, maybe since Jeep/Chrysler went to the lifetime powertrain warranty, they're just adding it for extra protection, because they're warrantying it so long. Just a thought. I mean our vehicles don't require synthetic oil, but most of us run it, becuase we want the extra protection. So the maker of the diff might say it's not neccessary, but Jeep might want it there, as they're the ones covering the warranty on it and maybe it will help in the long run. I might be way off on this one, just playing the devils advocate and trying to think of a positive reason they might be asking us to do something that is not required by the manufacturer. ???????????
Just a thought. Concerning the discussion on the additive for the rear end, maybe since Jeep/Chrysler went to the lifetime powertrain warranty, they're just adding it for extra protection, because they're warrantying it so long. Just a thought. I mean our vehicles don't require synthetic oil, but most of us run it, becuase we want the extra protection. So the maker of the diff might say it's not neccessary, but Jeep might want it there, as they're the ones covering the warranty on it and maybe it will help in the long run. I might be way off on this one, just playing the devils advocate and trying to think of a positive reason they might be asking us to do something that is not required by the manufacturer. ???????????
Maybe they were checking wear in the 06's before going with the Lifetime, or maybe they planned on doing both and it just took them an extra year to get the Lifetime Warranty approved upstairs. Once again, just playing the other side, and no, not like that.
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