How to set up Harman Kardon's Drive and Play - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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How to set up Harman Kardon's Drive and Play

So I still have my Drive and Play that was installed in my last car. Now I want to install it into the Commander. I cannot believe for the life of me that over the past 4 years this site has been around that not a single Drive and Play thread has been posted. SO, I'm starting this one hoping other people have installed it already.

There are 3 wires, Ignition, Ground, and Battery, that I need hardwired somehow. The ignition turns it off when the car is turned off, but I also want the battery wire to turn off when the car turns off. I don't want the battery charging my ipod 24 hours a day (I think that's what happens with this thing)

Any ideas for the wiring or has anyone installed one before? Where'd you put the control box, display, and control knob.

Silver 06 Commander Limited w/ HEMI and QDII, 245/70/17 Firestone Destination A/T, 2" Rough Country lift
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Bump! Still trying to figure out which wires to hook up to this unit. I was hoping to install it Sunday but might not be able to if I don't get any info before then. Thanks!

Silver 06 Commander Limited w/ HEMI and QDII, 245/70/17 Firestone Destination A/T, 2" Rough Country lift
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Past Cars Recent to Past: 06 Prius, 02 Camaro SS, 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 01 Plymouth Prowler, 02 Dodge Dakota, 98 Toyota MR2, 96 Cavalier
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 04:39 PM
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Not sure anyone here has used this product on their Commander.





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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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I'd be really surprised if that was the case but I guess all I would need then are those 3 wires. When I had it in my car I had the power coming off a cigarette lighter but that would charge the iPod 24 hours. Ignition and ground are a little easier but I'd like to get any specific recommendations before ripping things apart. Guess the easiest spot would be to shove everything behind the dash or navigation somewhere and then have the ipod in the glove box.

Silver 06 Commander Limited w/ HEMI and QDII, 245/70/17 Firestone Destination A/T, 2" Rough Country lift
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tawoody View Post
I'd be really surprised if that was the case but I guess all I would need then are those 3 wires. When I had it in my car I had the power coming off a cigarette lighter but that would charge the iPod 24 hours. Ignition and ground are a little easier but I'd like to get any specific recommendations before ripping things apart. Guess the easiest spot would be to shove everything behind the dash or navigation somewhere and then have the ipod in the glove box.
Left cig lighter outlet is only powered when the key is on.
Is that going to help you at all?

Rob


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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robby View Post
Left cig lighter outlet is only powered when the key is on.
Is that going to help you at all?

Rob
Until you posted this I didn't even think to go out and test this out to begin with. Since there's 2 outlets I don't mind sacrificing the wires from one of them for the ipod. That will provide battery and ground, now I wonder about the Ignition wire. I would think that if the battery turns on and off with the key I wouldn't even need an ignition wire. I'm gonna have to find and read the Drive and Play install manual to see if I even need it.

Thanks Rob

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 09:16 PM
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Your welcome.
Let us know how it all pans out.

Rob


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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, not working. I thought I could hook up the battery and ground and leave the ignition wire not connected. The drive and play turns on for a few seconds then turns off. I remember this happened in my last car and I do need to use the ignition wire. It's supposed to be hooked up to a 10a power source that signals the unit that it is on. It's supposed to be connected to the Ignition Switch's ACC terminal. I THOUGHT I could connect it to the purple/brown wire that's in the ignition switch but that leads to the same problem of it powering off after a few seconds. So I still need this ignition wire hooked up somewhere. Should be the same "signal" wire that hooks up to amplifiers to tell the amp that the car is turned on.

Silver 06 Commander Limited w/ HEMI and QDII, 245/70/17 Firestone Destination A/T, 2" Rough Country lift
09 Buell 1125CR
Past Cars Recent to Past: 06 Prius, 02 Camaro SS, 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 01 Plymouth Prowler, 02 Dodge Dakota, 98 Toyota MR2, 96 Cavalier
Past Bikes: 05 Harley Deluxe, 03 Harley Sportster, 06 Suzuki SV650, 04 Suzuki TL1000
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 09:09 AM
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Get out a multimeter and test the ignition wires. Sounds to me like your just looking for a switched 12v.

Here is the wiring layout I used to install my auto start.

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - JEEP / COMMANDER / 2006 / Security


[PRINT THIS PAGE]


12volts lt. blue/red (20A) + ignition harness
Starter pink/orange + ignition harness
Ignition pink/lt. green + ignition harness
Power Lock purple/dk. green - driver door module in door
Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 100 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use the trigger wires for the door lock relays found at the instrument cluster, conn. 2. Lock is lt. green/dk. green in pin 5. Driver door unlock is tan/lt. green in pin 6. Passenger door unlock is purple/lt. green in pin 7.
Power Unlock same as power lock wire
Lock Motor lt. green/lt. blue 5wi plug above fuses, pin 36
Unlock Motor lt. green/dk. green 5wi plug above fuses, pin 35
Disarm Defeat lt. green/tan 5wi plug above fuses, pin 34
Parking Lights+ do not use, relay rests at gnd
Parking Lights- (CAN data bus)
Hazards white/dk. blue to white/tan - SCM, 16 pin plug, pin 16
Notes: The SCM (Steering Column Module) is in the steering column.
Turn Signal(L) use hazards wire
Turn Signal(R) use hazards wire
Door Trigger see notes - each kick or cluster, conn. 3
Notes: The LF door is purple in pin 6. The RF door is purple/white in pin 7. The LR door is purple/gray in pin 4. The RR door is purple/yellow in pin 5. Use all four wires and diode isolate each wire from each other and the control module. Refer to DirectFax 1076 for wiring information.


Dome Supervision yellow/orange - any light or cluster, conn 2, pin 12
Trunk/Hatch Pin pur/org and pur/brn (glass) - DKP or cluster, conn. 3, pins 3, 2
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release orange/purple - DKP or cluster, conn. 3, pin 8
Notes: Meter this wire while opening the rear glass from the switch on the rear hatch.

The hatch release motor wire is orange/gray (5wi) at the plug above the fuses, pin 25.
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm factory remote only
Factory Alarm Disarm factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock with ignition and Sentry Key
Tachometer NOT red/tan or dk. grn/lt. grn ac any ignition coil or fuel injector
Horn Trigger dk. green/orange + horn or IPM, conn. 2, pin 35
Notes: The IPM (Integrated Power Module) is on the driver fender, behind the battery.
Memory Seat 1 lt. green/orange - driver door module in door
Notes: The memory seats are negative trigger thru resistors. The resistor values are not known at this time. Cut the wire and meter it while pressing the memory seat buttons.
Memory Seat 2 same as memory seat 1 wire -
Memory Seat 3 N/A -
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
Sentry Key
Part #: 556CW
Alternate Part1 #: 556UW
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models.
Interface Module: Category:
Door Lock Interface Required:
Yes Type:
Multiplex
Part #: 456LW
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Availab


Being this is a Chrysler product, they use the multiplex system so your most likely going to have to look elsewhere for your switched 12v then at the ignition. Get that multimeter out and test away.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher.Rice View Post
Get out a multimeter and test the ignition wires. Sounds to me like your just looking for a switched 12v.

Here is the wiring layout I used to install my auto start.

12volts lt. blue/red (20A) + ignition harness
Starter pink/orange + ignition harness
Ignition pink/lt. green + ignition harness
Power Lock purple/dk. green - driver door module in door


Being this is a Chrysler product, they use the multiplex system so your most likely going to have to look elsewhere for your switched 12v then at the ignition. Get that multimeter out and test away.
Oh boy. Looks like the purple/dr green is the one I thought was the ignition wire. I'll try using the pink/lt green for ignition and seeing what happens. I think a switched 12v is not working. I hooked up this Ignition wire to the switched outlet's 12v wire and that didn't work to keep the unit powered on. Man this garbage is a nightmare. Especially when they do not have vehicle specific instructions.

Thanks for the wiring info though!

Silver 06 Commander Limited w/ HEMI and QDII, 245/70/17 Firestone Destination A/T, 2" Rough Country lift
09 Buell 1125CR
Past Cars Recent to Past: 06 Prius, 02 Camaro SS, 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 01 Plymouth Prowler, 02 Dodge Dakota, 98 Toyota MR2, 96 Cavalier
Past Bikes: 05 Harley Deluxe, 03 Harley Sportster, 06 Suzuki SV650, 04 Suzuki TL1000
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