Key Issues - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Electronics / NAV Discussion This section contains discussion about the electronics system and NAV system in the Jeep Commander.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Key Issues

Hi!

I have a 2008 JComm. with approximately 22k miles on that baby. Since last week whenever I place it on Park (sometimes place the hand brake on) and turn it off they key will not turn all the way and come out. Jst couple min. i got to work and I had to turn it on and off three times before the key could be released. I get frustated and have wanted to force the key to turn and come out. I'm not using the metal key, I'm not using the steel key but rather the key that i receive from my dealer at time of purchase. If any of you guys know what the issue is and approximately how much it would be to fix and its cover by warranty that would be great. I would really appreaciate any additional info you can share. Thank You all and hope you have a great day!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toland View Post
I'm not using the metal key, I'm not using the steel key but rather the key that i receive from my dealer at time of purchase.
What kind of key did you receive? if it is NOT the OEM key then that is most likely your problem.



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 10:18 AM
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I think that 2008 is when they started having a key that does not look like a key. It looks like just a key fob. I rented a Commander in Denver and I thought someone had taken the key because there was no metal showing. You just plug in this key fob instead. I know that this does not help with the original question, but it explains his comment about no metal.

2007 Jeep Green Limited 4.7 Flex Fuel, RR 2.5" 4 inch Superlift coils on rear, 1.5" Spacers, Bridgestone 265/70/17, K&N CAI, Flowmaster, Diamond Plate Locking Trunk, Blue Ox Baseplate w/D-rings, "Get Lost 4X4" Front Bumper, T-Max 9000 winch, "Get Lost rear tire carrier, 30 gal second gas tank.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 01:22 PM
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Sounds like the lock cylinder (for lack of a better term, I don't know what Jeep calls that thing) is not getting a signal that the vehicle is fully in park.
As a result, it wont let you turn it off past the accessory position.
You should be under the 3 year 36k warranty period so make your problem their problem, heh heh.

Rob


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 02:36 PM
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A lot of vehicles have a control cable leading to the key lock. The cable is supposed to block the key from turning fully off or allowing the key to come out unless the transmission is in park.

Not sure what the Commander does, if it's a cable or solenoid. It needs to be checked at any rate.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 02:52 PM
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not a fix, but a step towards trouble shooting... try wiggling the shifter. if that doesn't work shift it to another gear and back into park. if that doesn't work shift to another gear and shift it a little more firmly into park.

i see a similar issue, but backwards all the time... it won't start until you wiggle the shifter or push it a little harder into park because it's not hitting the contact point firmly.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2014, 10:24 AM
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Update?

Curious to if there is any more knowledge on this at this point?

I am having a similar issue in my 2009 Jeep Commander. Sometimes it is okay, but other times, it sounds like there is a relay between the lighter power supplies that take a few seconds up to a minute before it clicks and I can remove the key. I am wondering if that relay is going bad or is there cable that is binding.

Any help with this is appreciated!

Also, another clue is that you do not have to shift out of park for this to occur, so I know it has nothing to do with a cable. It is definitely a relay or something similar that makes the click that releases the key fobik to turn to the off position.

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Last edited by MrMustang; 06-15-2014 at 11:22 AM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 01:39 PM
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Did you check for codes?

For the Key Fob system (no metal key blade) It could be the Lock Module, the SKIIM?, I forgot what they call it. It just fails to let release the key itself.

It could be the Shift Module, there is a cable from the shifter to the trans, but that cable only engages the park claw, the rest is all down digitally by sensors to what position the stick is in. So, the shifter module failing to tell the vehicle electronics that it is in the park position would cause your problem.

It could even be the Front Control Module / Central Gateway, the hub for all the digital signals failing to relay along the digital signal to let the key hub release the key.

I would try to read the codes and see if it tells you what communication problems you have or if there are problems with modules.


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 04:48 PM
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No codes.

What does that mean?

2009 Jeep Commander Sport 3.7L V6

Upgrades: K&N Filter, DRL's, Rear Handles, Curt Hitch, Steel Suspension Skid Plate, Fogs, Secure Console Cover, Bilstein 4600 Shocks (F/R), Moog Front/Rear Swaybar Links, Moog Front Swaybar Bushings, Moog Front Lower Control Arms, EBC Greenstuff Pads, Ignition Mod
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMustang View Post
No codes.

What does that mean?
What does what mean?

If you're talking codes, you can do a little procedure called the key dance that will cause the vehicle to read out stored fault codes in the EVIC on the instrument panel.

The key system you're describing is called the FOBIK system. The FOBIK key has a remote inside it and a RFID chip, these two things are seperate, the battery only controls the remote to unlock doors and other remote functions. The RFID chip is the actual "key" or anti-theft feature, the ignition switch module that you put the FOBIK key in is nothing more than a RFID reader (which is all down by radio waves) and some switches and solenoids controlled by/locking the the plastic reciever that is turned with the fobik. There are no cables to it, it is just a simple electric connector and that is it.

So, if you have no stored fault codes indicating a communication problem on the CAN bus, then likely your problem is either ignition module itself or the shifter.

I have seen posts where people cleaned the shifter with electrical cleaner, to include its connectors and it solved the problems they were having related to the shifter.

I have seen posts where people had the ignition module go bad and just replacing it simply fixed the problems. (I'm NOT sure, but I think the actual programming for the keys is stored in another module, the ignition switch itself is just a R/T unit and switch, so simple remove and replace and it will work with the existing keys.)


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