Help: key fob immobilizer chip location - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Electronics / NAV Discussion This section contains discussion about the electronics system and NAV system in the Jeep Commander.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Help: key fob immobilizer chip location

My buttons dont work on my key fob and I tried changing out the battery. Is the "chip" that keeps allows the ignition to work part of the green chip with the battery or is it something else? I want to cut off all of the fob except for where the lift gate button is and use that hole for the key ring. Is the immobilizer chip close to the metal part of the key?

'06 4.7L V8 65th Green Commander;; Performance: K&N 57; Flowmaster SUV 50; 4" Superlift; 1.5" Spidertax Spacer; 285/70R17 BF Goods MT KM2 x5; 50x60 Surco rack;; Electronics: Kenwood Excelon deck, bluetooth unit, amp, and 12in over-sized sub; MB Quart amp and 6x9 speakers; Garmin GPS; Python Remote Start;; Other: Black WeatherTech floor mats; Clinometer; Glock mount; Replaced rear seat with toolbox.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 11:42 AM
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I don't know if anyone else understands what you're asking but I don't.

You have the all-in-one unit with the ignition key and the lock/unlock/panic?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 11:55 AM
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I thought the Commander had two different key systems, depending on M/Y. You need to indetify which one?

The later Commanders 2008-2010 (I think) uses the RKE Fobik and earlier use the transponder key, again, someone please correct me on this I'm sure I have some of this wrong.

The RKE Fobik at least on the later Commanders is actually 2 parts, there is an RFID chip in the RKE Fobik, and that chip is used to start the car. The RFID chip does NOT use any power, the WIN module (the ignition key hole) uses RF energy powered by the vehicle battery to energize the chip so the vehicle can identify the RKE Fobik as authorized or unauthorized and let the vehicle start.

The rest of the electronics in the RKE Fobik are for the Remote Keyless Entry and other options on the Fobik. That uses the battery to power those. When the RKE Fobik is programmed to the car, it automatically pairs the remote functions to the vehicle as well.

NOT, sure, but if your battery in the Fobik went dead and a new battery doesn't let the Fobik work with the vehicle anymore, I think it would after used the key to start the vehicle, if NOT, try to do the key programming again.

If you're trying to cut keys up and make them smaller, don't be surprised the moment you cut into the circuit board, the circuit board will NO longer work and that would kill all the remote features, but maybe NOT the RFID since that doesn't mount on the circuit board and is in a whole different position on the key.

Finally, NOT all Chrysler RKE Fobiks and Transponder Keys work with all vehicles, there are certain part numbers that work and others that don't. As well, once a key is programmed to a vehicle it can never be programmed for another. So if you bought a key on ebay and are trying to make it work for the first time, it may never work because its a used key or the wrong key.


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Since my remote features don't work, because the green circuit board on the inside of the key is white crusted (I bought it used with only one key), I want to cut the bulk of the key off. I took out the circuit board and it only started for 2 seconds and cut off. I think I'm going to just mount the circuit board near the ignition and cut the key like I said. I tried using the key and waving the circuit board by the ignition and it worked, you can take it away after a few seconds and it will stay running.

'06 4.7L V8 65th Green Commander;; Performance: K&N 57; Flowmaster SUV 50; 4" Superlift; 1.5" Spidertax Spacer; 285/70R17 BF Goods MT KM2 x5; 50x60 Surco rack;; Electronics: Kenwood Excelon deck, bluetooth unit, amp, and 12in over-sized sub; MB Quart amp and 6x9 speakers; Garmin GPS; Python Remote Start;; Other: Black WeatherTech floor mats; Clinometer; Glock mount; Replaced rear seat with toolbox.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BauerJackBauer View Post
Since my remote features don't work, because the green circuit board on the inside of the key is white crusted (I bought it used with only one key), I want to cut the bulk of the key off. I took out the circuit board and it only started for 2 seconds and cut off. I think I'm going to just mount the circuit board near the ignition and cut the key like I said. I tried using the key and waving the circuit board by the ignition and it worked, you can take it away after a few seconds and it will stay running.
Does your key have a metal key "blade" with the bumps and ridges to use in a mechanical lock?

-OR-

Does your key have a just a blunt black plastic plug that is put in the ignition?

The former is a Transponder Key, the Laters is a RFID key.

From what your saying it sounds like the transponder chip or RFID chip is on the circuit board. Starting the vehicle with an unauthorized key, non-transponder/RFID or wrong transponder/RFID will do exactly what you describe. Moving the circuit board in close proximity to the ignition module makes it appear to be the transponder in the key.

If you have a locking ignition with Key Blade type ignition, you can tape the one transponder you have to the ignition and be OK because you still need a key with the right profile cut in the blade to start the car. If you have the later RKE fobik, this is NOT a good idea, because if the RFID chip is taped to the ignition, any plastic block the right shape will start and drive the car.

You could tape the transponder/RFID chip unto the ignition module under the dash, so its out of sight, likely it will work just as well.

If you only have one working key, the dealer can make a 2nd working key for you, you'll have to pay them for service to do it. Then you can make all the additional keys you want yourself, using a procedure that has the car program the keys itself, I think there is a limit of 8 keys total, including the keys the prevous owner lost, as long as you have two valid keys to start the procedure.

In 2010 they killed that feature, and in 2009 for a lot of other Chrysler Cars, if you have a 2010 Commander, like me, the only way to get key copies made is to go the dealer and pay them to do it. The Dealer will charge hundreds of bucks for blank keys, you can find them on ebay for $30. Just make sure you get the right part number and the key is NOT used, it has to be new, used keys can NOT be programmed again for another vehicle.

Dealer employees got caught making key copy's for criminals to steal the cars, using the self-programming feature. So Chrysler punished the dealer by removing that feature, so the dealers make a lot of extra money that the customer loses by having to pay the dealer for what they used to be able to do themselves. Some punishment, huh?


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 12:29 PM
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It's your Jeep but I wouldn't do something so half-assed. The white crust crap is probably from a leaking battery. Try cleaning it off with alcohol and a tooth brush, then try a new battery.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah it is from the battery and i think it had water damage too because there is a crack in the key fob. Yes it is a blade key. I am going to hide the transponder and probably protect it with something. I really hate the bulkiness of the fob, worst part of the commander. I think I will get a remote car starter so I have all of the buttons back plus a remote start, and a smaller fob. I'll let you know how it all goes. Plus I can play tricks by moving the transponder and then "lend" the car to a friend.

'06 4.7L V8 65th Green Commander;; Performance: K&N 57; Flowmaster SUV 50; 4" Superlift; 1.5" Spidertax Spacer; 285/70R17 BF Goods MT KM2 x5; 50x60 Surco rack;; Electronics: Kenwood Excelon deck, bluetooth unit, amp, and 12in over-sized sub; MB Quart amp and 6x9 speakers; Garmin GPS; Python Remote Start;; Other: Black WeatherTech floor mats; Clinometer; Glock mount; Replaced rear seat with toolbox.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 12:53 PM
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Just keep in mind, the only way to start your vehicle is with a single transponder chip on a hacked and damaged circuit board. You loose it, break it or it fails, the vehicle isn't going anywhere.

You'll have to have it towed to the dealer and pay the dealer through the nose to program you a new key. And if you need the key any sooner than in a couple of days, like you'll have to wait to get one off e-bay, you'll have to pay the dealer as much as $350 a key, plus as much as $100 to program it, and through in the tow on top of that, ouch, thats a lot of money.

I might be wrong, that is true for the RFID chip RKE Fobik keys. Some of the transponder keys you can have copied at hardware stores and some locksmiths at reasonable prices, might want to check out if your commander has that kind of transponder key.


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 01:04 PM
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The smart thing to do here is order a new one from eBay and get it programmed. It's really not that big at all because it incorporates the key and fob in one unit.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 07:29 PM
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Yea, that FOB is a big one.
I can't stand it in my pocket either so....

I had a valet key made and trimmed it shorter......this is what I carry.
I just lock the Commander with the big key/fob hidden in it.

This accomplishes two things.....obviously, it doesn't feel like a golf ball is in my pocket and, by using the door lock cylinder, I don't have to worry about it freezing up due to lack of use.

Rob


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