Then the kickers showed up along with the 6x9 to 6.5 adapter..
Installed the subs using the existing wiring for the 6x9's.
Tested and tweaked and the sound wasn't near what I expected. I know these subs can be used free-air in doors but I don't recommend it. It's much worse than the stock subs.
So before I decided to remove the subs, I ordered and installed an amp.
These speakers really do need min 150 RMS watts to perform.
I found the Kenwood KAC-7205 amp with 4 awg wiring kit combo from SonicElectronix for $135 shipped. That's a screaming deal!
It's a class AB amp
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 170 watts x 2 chan.
2 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
I stole the mounting location idea from forum member, cqbennett
Thx for the tip! worked out real well!!
Got the amp installed and ran 10 awg speaker wires to the subs in the doors.
After tweaking for about a day or so, the sound was definitely better than using the stock BA amp for power. But the stock 6x9's still sounded MUCH better in the doors. These subs really do need a sealed box to perform.
So I put the stock speakers back and decided to build a temporary box for the 6.5's to see how they sound.
WOW, what a difference... These things hit pretty hard for a 6.5. The box I built was way to small and the sound I'm getting is a very tight and punchy bass. I tried 2 ohm stereo and bridging to 500x1 and it really didn't sound any different.
As you can see in the pic, i removed one of the 3rd row seats. My plan now is to build a larger box for these subs to fill that area so I can see use it for cargo. I have a 68 lb english bulldog I put in the back and don't want his shoe-string drool or claws tearing up the new subs. I may even sell the 6.5's and go with a single 10 inch.
Another thing I can share is the mounting location for the subs in the cargo area. I tested firing up, back, down and forward and the best position is up or even angled up towards the tailgate glass.