Now I know we all love Jeeps, but a good buddy of mine with a 2014 Infiniti wanted some help with installing a subwoofer. I've installed a few headunits, door speakers, and subwoofers in my experience, but this install has just been going awful in terms of electrical issues. This is the stuff that's making me look forward to getting another TJ.
We ordered a subwoofer, LOC(Line Output Converter-To be able to use RCA output to the subwoofer with stock headunit), and a bass audio wiring kit. We already have the tools to cut, trim, splice, and crimp wires.
*Note: his model Infiniti Q60 does NOT have Bose stock amplifier in the trunk to be able to run wires from.
Subwoofer-Rockford Fossgate P300-10
LOC- PAC SNI-35
Piggy Back Fuse Adaptor for bass remote turn on
Gauge Cluster Illuminates when car is either in acc or on(running), BUT no rpm info, no fuel info(full tank), no information is appearing, it's all at 0, and empty.
Shifter is also stuck in park
*****************What we had done step by step:*****************
1. Disconnect Negative battery terminal.
2. Run power wire(with fuse) from positive battery terminal through firewall(See IMGUR photo 1), and underneath door trim pieces of passenger side to the trunk.
3. Carefully disassemble the head unit pieces detaching wires from the screen, AC controls, etc.
4. Locate the Rear Left +/-, and Rear Right +/- wires in the head unit to cut and splice with the LOC(Line Output Converter) so that signal will still be sent to to stock rear speakers, but also to sub woofer for bass notes. I found a wiring diagram that stated there was a wire harness with light blue, pink, green, and blue(normal) to be the source for the Rear left +/- and right +/- (I put a copy of it in the IMGUR photo 2 with a better description)
5. Run RCA cables from the LOC in the head unit through the driver side(opposite side from power cable)
6. Went into foot well of driver side to find a fuse to run a remote wire to the subwoofer. Reconnected the battery and turned on the car to use tester on certain fuses to see which one to use as the remote wire.
7. Problems* - Gauge cluster not showing data, shifter is locked in park.
8. Disconnected battery, pressed the brake to hope to reset any problems, reconnected battery and turned on again(Can be in acc, or running) - same problems exist.
9. Disconnected battery again to go back into head unit wire harnesses, reverted all the work by only having the original connected wires go back to itself, no splicing.
10. Reconnected battery, started car (acc, and then running) same problems still exist regardless acc or running.
I've been researching to find that it may be because some fuses may have blown, I checked a few and they were fine. Should I replace all the fuses just in case or run them with a tester? Or Am I wasting my time and money doing that and I may have messed up something else completely? Is it something with a brake light fuse?
I would gratefully appreciate any help on this as he can't even drive the car right now and I dropped him off at work today