I think that the drain clog could be part of the reason. Likely not the first time water has run down the pillars, and sometimes it's a build up of corrosion. doesn't take much to disrupt the CAN. You said you have had it for 4 years? Do you know the Jeep's history? May have been one of those Hurricane Sandy flooded cars. Again corrosion build up.
My understanding, and personal experience, with the drain clog is that it happens at the bottom, not the top. The nipple at the bottom clogs, so the water comes out at the bottom where the hose goes into the nipple. Not out the top to run down the pillars. But, I could be wrong. Either way, there shouldn't be any connectors in the pillars....you'd never be able to get to them, they'll be at the top or bottom.
Regardless, I agree with the possibility of corrosion that has gotten worse over time....
On top of that, everything in the "Notes" at the end of OP's post makes me cringe a little....that is a LOT of electrical problems from areas that are all looped in to the CAN bus. Yes, these issues have been there for years without causing a parasitic draw, but the inherent "issue" with complicated multiplex circuits like the CAN bus is that it requires specific voltages and resistances all over the place. One issue of the right size can cause a cascade effect of other issues down the line. Sometimes this takes time as things stack up.....and this could be because of corrosion.
I'd already rule the ignition switch out, this draw is happening with the key off...and that's already what the switch would do on its own
I'd bet this is all something in your door switches, their circuits or the multi-function switch. Both are active all the time even key out. The multi-function switch plugs directly into the clock-spring & steering angle sensor housing which is all one big integrated unit (the SCM) that is fed by the CAN bus. Fortunately, that switch is fairly easy to replace and shouldn't be too expensive. The clock-spring unit is around $600+, however....but I really doubt there's anything wrong with that.
Since you don't have any reference material, maybe this will help a little with sorting out fuses:
IOD fuses are "Ignition Off Draw" these should make up your ideal ~30mA, things like radio memory, dome light triggers, etc.
R.O. fuses are "Run Only"....meaning, only when the Key is in the Run position.
Your Rear Wiper and Ignition holding 70mA is interesting, but the big ones are your interior fuses....#12 pointing right to Door Light triggers (Courtesy Lamp), and #16 is your OBD (on board diagnostics) gauge cluster (should be all the stuff that shows up on the gauges when you open doors with the key off), and Steering Control Module (SCM)....this could ALL be just because of that multi-function switch....but it could still be a lot of things....