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strut replacement

9K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  jasmat 
#1 ·
I just noticed my passenger strut is leaking oil , Which sucks because I just put a lift on a few weeks ago and now I have to take the strut out again, I ordered a OE replacement Part Number: REPJ280104
and only plan on changing the leaky one. Its pretty cold and I think it may be a few weeks before I get to it , Should I replace it ASAP or should I be ok to hold off a lil while? . also the struts aren't labeled left or right so I assume they are interchangable.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Do the shock test, rock the vehicle back and forth, as much as physical can, then release it, you should see one overshoot at most and then the suspension levels. More than one overshoot the shock fails.

BTW, passing this test means the shock/strut is NOT dangerous, it does NOT mean the shock/strut is good, and many worn out shock/strut can pass this test, but worn enough that replacing the shock/strut would produce a signficantly better ride and handling.

There is an argument that you need to balance left/right of the suspension, if you replace something on one side, you have to replace it on the other. Unless you are confident that the good strut is still darn close to like new performance, I'd replace both. If you have a 2" lift, that is going to exaggerate any bad handling, I'd think it would be even more important to balance left/right handling when replacing components that effect it.

Its a tough call, I'm sure people have replaced a single shock and couldn't tell any difference. Shocks can effect brake distance as well, so you want to be a little more cautious with a bad shock, and if you elect to go with replacing only one shock, at least approach any handling more cautiously until you've checked it out bit by bit.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips , I haven't done the shock test yet but I can say I really don't feel anything wrong as far as handling , except for after I put the lift on and had larger tires put on it was spooky on the highway above 60 if I hit a bump the vehicle would wander . The tire place said they had done an alignment but I took it to a different shop and they told me the alignment was set to the stock xk's specs , So they gave it a little more postive camber and told me it was now on the edge of being within specs, It is now very solid on the highway, perfect . Not sure if the shock had much to do with the initial wandering but its possible .

I'll replace the leaky one and keep a close eye on any handling issues , If I have any issued I'll replace the other as well with the same strut . Thanks again.
 
#5 ·
It is commercially acceptable to replace one strut as long as it is the same manufacturer as the one being removed.

It took me a long time to embrace that, but it is done all the time during warranty with no ill effects or handling problems.

Rob

P.S.
This applies to a strut design cartridge damper only.......not shock absorbers.
 
#6 ·
this company which sells the oe replacement has the product labeled as strut assembly /shock absorber / front . I just spoke with a customer rep and they dont even know if it is the same as factory , I may end up returning this order .

Alot of struts are labeled as shock absorbers though . Im not too familiar with them so I have to wait and see what I get in the mail in two days.
 
#7 ·
Yeah,
The strut/shock thing gets confusing.
Generally, Strut is short for a type of suspension called 'Mcphearson Strut'
A Mcphearson design has no upper control arm and the strut body rotates as the wheels turn left and right.
The strut acts as the locater/pivot point and has a rather large piston shaft to handle the forces from the tires.

This system, found on the Commander and other IFS Jeeps as well as most German cars and a few domestics is called a 'Modified Mcphearson Strut' inasmuch as the strut is not asked to rotate or locate the wheels because a upper control arm is used with a specific steering knuckle.
The resemblance then, to the Mcphearson design, is strictly the fact that modified or traditinal, the strut comprises the spring mounting points.
As such, it requires a rather stout shaft to tolerate a spring that would like to be anywhere but where it is....so it still has to put up with a fair amount of side loading as the spring compresses and extends.

So, some like to call them shocks, not taking into account their function of spring placement.

A shock is nothing but a damper.....no springs, no side loads, just jounce control.

Just a little fodder for discussion.

Rob
 
#8 ·
Got the strut in the mail and it was the right size , installed yesterday and went for a ride over some speedbumps because I wanted to make sure I tightened that nut on the strut shaft good enough , I think I may have not tightened it enough with my impact because I think I had a faint clunk on rebound but im not certain yet .

Today I go to work and the new strut is squeaking pretty much as long as im moving , sounds like the coil on rubber . Would a loose strut shaft nut cause this ? Im guessing yes .

What im really interested in knowing is if anyone tightened there center nut (shaft nut) through the engine bay with a 2" rc lift. Is it accessible ?? I will check this weekend when I actually have some time . any info appreciated . thanks
 
#10 ·
That would be great , I have the tools but im short on time until this weekend . I did a search and someone on here had a RR lift and said they could not access the strut nut because the angle . I have never seen a RR spacer so Im hoping its different then the RC's .
 
#11 ·
Finally tightened that nut up , The hole on the passenger side engine bay over the strut nut was too small for a socket so I used a hammer and the correct size socket to make it wider and then I touched it up with some paint .

I actually had to draw that nut down about a half an inch before it reached home. all better now no squeaks or clunks .
 
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