3M Metal Polish - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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3M Metal Polish

So a buddy of mine told me today that he used some 3M Metal Polish on his wheels over the weekend and said they came out looking like mirrors...ANyone ever use this product before, I was thinking of using some on my polished lip on the rim, but I am not sure if it will do damage to the Gunmetal alloy good or bad and thought maybe a review from someone else whose used it would be helpful.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetNby View Post
So a buddy of mine told me today that he used some 3M Metal Polish on his wheels over the weekend and said they came out looking like mirrors...ANyone ever use this product before, I was thinking of using some on my polished lip on the rim, but I am not sure if it will do damage to the Gunmetal alloy good or bad and thought maybe a review from someone else whose used it would be helpful.
DON'T!!!!!!!!!
Metal polish is just that, metal polish.
These wheels are clear coated, just like the paint on the body.
Metal polish will grind the clear coat off.
Use wax and nothing more on coated wheels.
The metal polish is great for raw, polished aluminum wheels or any metal that is uncoated.

Rob


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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ok cool glad I asked...I didnt even look at the package the guy was just telling me about it good thing i didnt get it I guess

2006 Jeep Commander 4.7L 4wd Loaded, 2" Daystar spacer lift, rear hitch tow hook, Custom 4" ram air intake, Optima yellowtop battery, semi-custom rock sliders, 245-75-R17 Goodyear Silent Armors, Hidden emergency lights all around (undercover cop look), bug deflector, stick-ons, and MUD occasionally.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 09:22 PM
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Oh, trust me on this one,
You'd be hating life about a week after you did it......the now raw aluminum will begin to turn white.
Once road salted, it will corrode like you cannot imagine.

Rob


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 07:58 AM
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Use a chrome polish found any auto parts store or hardware store. Works great on the chrome grill, chrome side moldings and wheels, even though they aren't real chrome. It works just like wax- let haze up and wipe off. You will be amazed at the results. I have cleaned the chrome before and thought I had it shiny, after using chrome polish it adds a lot of depth and really reflects the light. I have used mothers and turtle wax chrome polish with the same results.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yanser View Post
Use a chrome polish found any auto parts store or hardware store. Works great on the chrome grill, chrome side moldings and wheels, even though they aren't real chrome. It works just like wax- let haze up and wipe off. You will be amazed at the results. I have cleaned the chrome before and thought I had it shiny, after using chrome polish it adds a lot of depth and really reflects the light. I have used mothers and turtle wax chrome polish with the same results.
Although you may see more depth on the wheel, again, a polish is designed to remove material, specifically corrosion.
Continued use will wear away the clear coat paint on the rim.
Back in the day when bumpers were chrome, over time and many applications of polish, you would wear through the chrome and nickel coatings and begin to expose the brass base coating.
The bumpers would start looking gold in certain light.
So, if polish can wear through chrome and nickel, it can wear through clear coat paint in no time at all.
I might add, the owners manual also suggests maintaining the wheel finish the same as the body......frequent washing, waxing, no harsh chemicals.

Rob


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 10:49 AM
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What methods do you all use in cleaning inbetween the 'Jeep' emblems (front/back)? I have tried toothbrush and q-tips, but it seems like the dirt is gonna be there forever.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 11:08 AM
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What methods do you all use in cleaning inbetween the 'Jeep' emblems (front/back)? I have tried toothbrush and q-tips, but it seems like the dirt is gonna be there forever.
Try a little cleaner wax (any brand) on your q'tips and gently clean, letting the wax do the work.
Once the wax dries, use a tightly single fold line micro fiber towel, like those little ones for cleaning eyeglasses to remove the residue.

The dirt you see is really calcium from the water drying in the letters.

Rob


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 11:57 AM
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I have a friend in the metals business. He now works at a place that processes scrap titanium into 30,000 lb. ingots. Before that, he worked at a chrome plant. They took in various car parts, (a LOT of hotrod and restoration people used the place) and other things to get chromed. Eventually, the environmentalists shut the place down. (The chemicals are NASTY)

Contrary to popular belief, chromium is NOT shiny. It’s actually a transparent hard coat layer that’s the final layer to get added. The shiny surface you see is actually the nickel underneath it. The nickel is bonded to the copper that’s laid on before that. The underlying metal has to be perfect before the choming is done too, or it won’t have a mirror finish. Parts have to be buffed to a mirror finish before any chemical process is started or the completed chromed part is NOT mirror like.

The chromed plastic is actually like anything else chromed, other than they figured out how to make that ‘’magic’’ black layer that binds the first copper layer to the plastic. It will fracture if the plastic is bent, and the chromed finish starts to peel away. Or, a rock or something gets kicked up, bends the plastic leaving a dent underneath the chroming, and the chrome layers start breaking away from that point on.

Both metal and plastic chrome parts suffer the same problem with repeated polishing. The hard cap chromium layer wears away, then you’re shining up the nickel layer instead, and much more often since the chromium’s gone. As mentioned above, you then quickly wear away the nickel, and you see the ‘’gold’’ of the copper layer. Think of the chrome like the enamel on your teeth. People who over-whiten their teeth, (especially in the late 1800’s with acids and the like) wore away the enamel, and their now softened teeth quickly disappeared down to stumps.

Therefore, AVOID using metal polish unless you’re preparing the part to actually get rechromed. You just want to CLEAN the chrome parts. Metal polish contains fine abrasive particles, and that’s why it polishes as it does. It may take a while, but that abrasive is removing your chrome hard cap.

As for aluminum. A lot of wheels are mirror buffed, then hard coated, usually with lacquer. (synthetic versions of it anyway) You use polish, and that layer wears off. Then, you’re in for repolishing the wheels every other month. If the wheels have a ‘’gun metal’’ finish, that’s usually a glass beading finish. (Like sand blasting) That’s also clear coated. If you mess up the coating on those, you’re really in for it later since you can’t clean up the micro-pitted surface very easy.

Some aluminum wheels like the Alcoa’s on my motorcoach are non-coated. (Alcoa does make a coated version) Those need maintenance about four times a year. [removed] A good buffing compound (red rouge) will put on a somewhat protective layer that keeps them looking like a mirror longer, but they need constant repolishing. The coach’s 22.5 inch wheels are mostly smooth with only the vent holes to add more polishing work. (Think your basic Kenworth or Peterbilt truck wheel) The shiny lug nuts are just chromed covers.

The Commander’s wheels would be a major Pain [edited] to repolish every three months, so I’d be careful to NOT polish away that clear coat finish.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-06-2009, 01:21 PM
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i use the fake credit cards from the mail and fold a towel over them. you can also cut them as needed.

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