How To: Rear brakes - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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How To: Rear brakes

Tools needed;
Jack
13mm deep well or extension
Flat head
c-clamp
Parts needed;
New rear brake shoes ($25)


Follow all safety steps when jacking up one rear tire at a time.


There are two rear mounted 13mm bolts that hold the brake caliper in place.




Remove bolts two long 13mm bolts.


Remove caliper and rest on top rotor. Some prying with flat head or larger may be needed.



There is a spring on the outer brake shoe that needs to be depressed in order to remove outer shoe. Outer shoe needs to be removed first. Some more prying might be needed.


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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Then pull inner shoe away from caliper then remove.



The new shoes are wider than the old and the caliper needs to be decompressed to allow for new shoes. I used a C-clamp, but if your want to give yourself a hernia, you can try decompressing by hand.



Place new shoes in the revers order.


When returning caliper the mounting bolts may be in the way preventing proper seating of caliper. Simply push or pull sliding hardware away from rotor. Set the bottom side in first and then push the top into place. You should hear/feel the caliper snap in place, being held in by spring.


Remount the two long 13mm mounting bolts, then the tire goes back on and your done.

Took 15 min each side. This can be done by most anyone who has a simple set of hand tools and a jack. Hope this helps someone save a few $$ from having a shop/dealer do it. Obviously this is for just a simple shoe change, if rotor is damaged more work needs to be done or professional help may be needed.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:25 PM
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Good write up. As an FYI, the service manual recommends using the old brake pad to compress the piston so you don't accidentally tear the piston boot.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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^ Great point! I'm just a regular guy trying save money on labor. I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thanks!

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 05:53 PM
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Good write up. Make sure you don't overtorque the caliper bolts like I did when I changed my brakes over the weekend because they will break pretty easy and you'll create more work for yourself. Apparently the $15 torque wrench from menards isn't all that accurate.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 09:24 PM
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A few observations/questions.

The removed pads appear to be, at best 25%.....maybe 35% worn.
A lot of service life remains.....at least, again, that is how it appears.
So, if I'm correct, what was your motivation.....warped rotor, better braking?
If the angle is making them appear better than they are, my apologies.

cqbennett,
Were you using a foot lb. torque wrench?
For anyone reading, once the spec drops below 10 ft.lb., use a inch pound wrench.
A ft.lb. wrench is rather inaccurate at the low side and very easy, as you found out, to overtorque.
Fortunatly, the bolt broke before the threads pulled out of the mount.

Thanks for taking the time to create a good DIY writeup, ER!

Rob


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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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^ loud metal on metal sound. I thought they look like they had more life in them, but all the metal on metal sound is gone.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER NURSE View Post
^ loud metal on metal sound. I thought they look like they had more life in them, but all the metal on metal sound is gone.
Hmm,
Might have been a cheez ball set installed before you got it.
I have run across some real ratty sounding aftermarket stuff.
Glad it worked out!

Rob


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 01:04 PM
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Just curious, but does the rotor simply slide right off the spindle there, once the brake caliper and bracket is off the axle/hub assembly?

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