Parking Brake Cable Snap! - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Parking Brake Cable Snap!

So I thought I'd share my current predicament and hopefully save someone else the pain...

Last night I parked my XK like normal and pulled the parking brake lever as i always do.... this time i got a snap and a very loose lever.

So this morning i removed the center console and cleaning out the crap that has fallen in the holes and crevices over time, i found a completly snapped cable at the lead ball that holds it to the lever.

Unlike normal cars with the equalizer connection routed outside and under the car. the xk has it routed right under the middle of the second row seat inside the car.

SO this of course leads to removal of the second row since the middle does not tumble foward. Also removal of the second row plastic floor compartment.

After getting to the access hole in the carpet i was able to get to the equalizer and remove the broken cable.

I now have to order the cable which is about 3ft. long from the dealer for $40

Installation is bound to be even more of a pain rerouting the new cable.

Well you might be asking yourself how does this affect me? why should i care this is a freak accident right?

There is a TSB out that every XK should have their parking brake cables adjusted every 30K. Apparently their getting too tight and this happens.

So a warning to all XK owners, get your parking brake cables adjusted or suffer the heartache (and cable break). Especially if you get new rear rotors or notice that the lever is harder to pull at times or notice any change in the way your parking brake lever acts.

Mine would sometimes be stiff to pull or it would randomly snap back into the off position. Other times it would work normal.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 04:49 PM
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Tanx for the tip I don't really use the hand break alot but good to know might help someone else that does.

06 Jeep Commander 4.7 QT II wih RC lift, Superchips 3872 and 245/75R17 Thunderer MT Tires

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 05:26 PM
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I now have to order the cable which is about 3ft. long from the dealer for $40

If you haven't ordered it yet, I have a brand new cable sitting in my garage that you can have. When I ordered the e-brake leather covered handle, it came with the cable. I opted to change only the handle for the exact reasons you are stating.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 06:31 PM
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I never really use the parking brake. There is no need to use it if you put the vehichle in PARK. Its got an automatic transmission. It isnt going anywhere.




2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front OME MD Springs w/Superlift Preload Spacer | Rear 4" Superlift Springs | Bilstein 5125 Rear Shocks | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Black Rock 997 Wheels | Fred Goeske 1/4 Inch Wheel Spacers | 305/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R w/Kevlar | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front E-Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 06:39 PM
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Actually, it is good to apply it when parked on a steep hill.
You set the brake before putting it in park and this will prevent the trans experiencing 'torque lock'.
Thats what happens when all the weight of the vehicle is being held by the park pawl in the trans.
When you try to put it in gear the lever will be bound and a lot of arm required to get it out of park......along with a rather loud bang when you succeed.
In some cases, they bind so bad another vehicle is required to pull the vehicle with the stuck trans slightly uphill to take the pressure off the park pawl and allow it to release.
Good idea to use it every so often to keep the cables from binding internally as well, even if you are a flatlander like myself.

Rob


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raid View Post
Well you might be asking yourself how does this affect me? why should i care this is a freak accident right?

There is a TSB out that every XK should have their parking brake cables adjusted every 30K. Apparently their getting too tight and this happens.

So a warning to all XK owners, get your parking brake cables adjusted or suffer the heartache (and cable break). Especially if you get new rear rotors or notice that the lever is harder to pull at times or notice any change in the way your parking brake lever acts.

Mine would sometimes be stiff to pull or it would randomly snap back into the off position. Other times it would work normal.
How does a cable tighten all on its own?? Not saying your wrong, I'm saying it doesn't make sense to me, whats different with the XK that the parking brake cable tightens on its own?

I've had other Chrysler vehicles with self-tensioning parking brakes, that automatically tension the cable, this has never happened, they don't work that way.

The rear drums or drum in hat e-brake (if you have a 4wheel discs) have their own adjustment. You would have to be ignoring the shoe adjustment and overtighten the cable to compensate for the out of adjustment rear shoes; to create a situation where new rear discs would cause the cable to tighten.

At the same time, I noticed the procedure for adjusting e-brake says to loosen the cable before adjusting the shoes. Which I've never seen before with other vehicles, although I have found a couple of times I did have to loosen the cable when adjusting shoes, probably because I messed up and over tightened the cable in the past.

So, is there something different with the e-brake that causes this in the XK, when it doesn't happen in other vehicles?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 07:21 PM
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What??? The 30000 mile service on the brakes is to adjust them since they are not self adjusting. You didn't notice that the handle was going higher every time you set it? If you don't adjust the shoes you will reach the limit of the cable, therefore breaking it.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 07:58 PM
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It is quite common for park brake cables to 'draw up' or become shorter as they corrode.
See it often in salty Northern Illinois.
On the system found on most rear disc vehicles (small internal drum brake within the rotor) they draw up and sometimes eat the rear shoes right off the webs.
Matter of fact, a member just had this exact experience and virtually poured the remains onto the floor following a bind and break free situation.
On the rear drum systems, at shoe replacement time, you'll often find the equalizer bar holding the shoes off the top anchor stud, indicating the cables must be loosened due to 'draw up'

So, the operators in the non- salt/minimal rust areas of the country sometimes have to tighten the cables due to stretch and those of us in the snow belt have to do the inverse.
I'm always amazed at how different operating conditions can alter maintenence requirements....even after all these years.

As far as the lead ball tearing through.....it happens.....and not just to a Commander.
The OP drew the short straw regarding luck on that one......that or he may be setting it far harder than necessary.

Rob


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robby View Post
Actually, it is good to apply it when parked on a steep hill.
You set the brake before putting it in park and this will prevent the trans experiencing 'torque lock'.
Thats what happens when all the weight of the vehicle is being held by the park pawl in the trans.
When you try to put it in gear the lever will be bound and a lot of arm required to get it out of park......along with a rather loud bang when you succeed.
In some cases, they bind so bad another vehicle is required to pull the vehicle with the stuck trans slightly uphill to take the pressure off the park pawl and allow it to release.
Good idea to use it every so often to keep the cables from binding internally as well, even if you are a flatlander like myself.

Rob
I understand if you are parking on a hill but the only other time I would use the parking brake besides that would to pull it everyonce and a while like you said to keep it from binding. There is no need to pull the parking brake everytime you go somewhere and park the vehicle if it is on flat ground.




2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front OME MD Springs w/Superlift Preload Spacer | Rear 4" Superlift Springs | Bilstein 5125 Rear Shocks | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Black Rock 997 Wheels | Fred Goeske 1/4 Inch Wheel Spacers | 305/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R w/Kevlar | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front E-Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 09:51 PM
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07 owners manual on page 275 states, "The parking brake Should always be applied whenever the driver is not in the vehicle." And "WARNING always fully apply the parking brake when leaving your vehicle, or it may roll and cause damage or injury. Also be certain to leave the transmission in P (Park). Failure to do so may allow the vehicle to roll and cause damage or injury."

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07JeepXK View Post
I understand if you are parking on a hill but the only other time I would use the parking brake besides that would to pull it everyonce and a while like you said to keep it from binding. There is no need to pull the parking brake everytime you go somewhere and park the vehicle if it is on flat ground.
You could have edited post #4.
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