removal of front a rear rotors - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Regular Service / Maintenance This section contains discussion about regular service and maintenance (upkeep) of your Jeep Commander

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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removal of front a rear rotors

Can anyone point me to where I can get step by step instructions on removing the front and rear rotors so I can get them resurfaced for my 07.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 10:23 AM
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You are going to get new pads as well, correct?

Unfortunately, no one has published a Commander maintenance manual and the Factory Service Manual is too expensive. It should be the same as the same year Grand Cherokee, NOT sure if there is even a manual for that either.

The only thing different from standard pads/rotor job is the cradle for the pads. Instead of everything mounting on the caliper, they have a cradle that wraps on the rotor, the pads ride in that cradle and caliper mounts on that cradle. You'll have to pull off the caliper, take the pads out of the cradle and then remove the cradle to get the rotor off. Its only two bolts that hold on the cradle, so its NOT really much harder than doing any other disc brakes.

Last edited by Mongo; 11-08-2010 at 10:28 AM.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 10:27 AM
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In a nutshell :
1. Jack up the Vehicle properly and in a safe manner.
2. Take off wheel (I'm assuming this is easy enough to do on your own).
3. Remove the two inner (larger) bolts holding the entire brake assembly(front), or for the rear the two brake pad bolts which hold all you need to remove rotors. Remove the brake assembly in front, in rear push down metal tab on top of brake pad assembly and pull out similar to the front.
4. Remove the O ring around the axle area with a flat head screwdriver.
5.Pull off rotors. It may be difficult due to rust and dirt. WD 40 or PB Blaster/Break free can help. FOR THE REAR be sure the EBRAKE is NOT on causing brake shoes to press against the inner drum.
6. Replace in the same fashion you took it off.

Not the most detailed but it's not too tuff a job.

Mods: 2007 Commander 4.7L, QTII, OEM Towing Option, front tow hooks, 2.25" lift, rusty's 1/4" leveling spacer, Bilstein 5150 Rear Shocks, rear swaybars disconnected, 4xguard front skid plate, mopar steel engine skid, Defender Roof Rack, 265/70/R17 BFG KM2 M/Ts 1.5" wheel spacers from rough country ($59.99) , Yaesu FTm350 70 cm, 2meter 220 50 watt mobile radio , 5db gain mag mount antenna, Hella 500FF lights.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 02:03 PM
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FRONT
NOTE: Front rotors and hub/bearings are matched mounted for minimum lateral runout. Before removing the rotor, mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain original orientation.


1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.




3. Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts (3) and remove the caliper adapter from the steering knuckle.
4. Secure caliper anchor assembly to nearby suspension part with a wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.



5. Remove and discard the o-ring (2) securing the disc brake rotor (1) on the hub.
6. Remove the disc brake rotor from hub/bearing


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 02:33 PM
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Doesn't get much better than that. Nice write up SAL. Only beef I've got with it is we might want to keep the o-ring and not discard it unless you have a new one to replace it.

Mods: 2007 Commander 4.7L, QTII, OEM Towing Option, front tow hooks, 2.25" lift, rusty's 1/4" leveling spacer, Bilstein 5150 Rear Shocks, rear swaybars disconnected, 4xguard front skid plate, mopar steel engine skid, Defender Roof Rack, 265/70/R17 BFG KM2 M/Ts 1.5" wheel spacers from rough country ($59.99) , Yaesu FTm350 70 cm, 2meter 220 50 watt mobile radio , 5db gain mag mount antenna, Hella 500FF lights.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 02:49 PM
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I'm guessing a new one is required because I pulled this right from the service manual


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 06:26 PM
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On other vehicles, on the assembly line and only for production purposes, they install a retainer ring over one of the lugs to keep the rotor snug up on the hub, as the vehicle moves down the assembly before calipers are installed. The first time you need to remove the rotors, you'd just discard the retaining ring, its NOT needed, you can do the same thing threading down a lug nut on one of the studs, if its necessary.

Could this "O-Ring" be the same thing? I don't really know, but I can't think of any purpose of putting an o-ring in that location. To seal out water? Why, it would work its way in from other directions more easily. BUT, I really don't know why its there, NOR have I seen it up close to really get an idea of what it might be, and it might be wise to re-install it just in case.

Last edited by Mongo; 11-08-2010 at 06:28 PM.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 08:44 PM
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installation


1. Install the rotor (1) on hub studs.
2. Install the caliper adapter (1) on the knuckle (2). Install adapter bolts (3) and tighten to 169 Nm (125 ft. lbs.).

NOTE: Caliper slide pins should be free from debris and lightly lubricated.


3. Install the caliper (1) to the caliper adapter (4) and tighten the bolts to 44 Nm (32 ft. lbs.).
4. Gently lift one end of the slide pin boot to equalize air pressure, then release the boot and verify that the boot is fully covering the slide pin.
5. Install wheel and tire assembly.
6. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
7. Pump brake pedal to seat caliper pistons and brake pads. Do not move vehicle until firm brake pedal is obtained.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 08:46 PM
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STANDARD PROCEDURE
NOTE: A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is highly recommended. This type of lathe trues the rotor to the vehicles hub/bearing.

The disc brake rotor can be machined if scored or worn. The on-vehicle lathe must machine both sides of the rotor simultaneously with dual cutter heads. The rotor mounting surface must be clean before placing on the on-vehicle lathe. Equipment capable of machining only one side at a time may produce a tapered rotor This type of rotor machining is not recommended.

NOTE: Proper wheel torque is also critical to help prevent any warping of the disc brake rotor.

CAUTION: Brake rotors that do not meet minimum thickness specifications before or after machining must be replaced.


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 10:16 PM
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Not the best "How to..", but it's better than nothing.

https://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/...ad.php?t=11266

Use the search tool as well to find other great threads on brakes.

2006 Black 65th Anniversary Edition
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