30,000 mile maintenance - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Regular Service / Maintenance This section contains discussion about regular service and maintenance (upkeep) of your Jeep Commander

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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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30,000 mile maintenance

I took my 2007 jeep commander, which I bought new in 2008 as a left over, in for 30,000 mile regular maintenance. I was told I needed rear brakes, new sparks, tire rotation, transfer flluid change and oil/filter change to the tune of $1595. They offered me a 10% discount and 3 free oil changes in the future. Does this price sound reasonable? I am aware that in order to keep my power train warranty I need to keep up with the maintenance of the vehicle through the dealership. Just curious on price. Anybody have similiar situation? Thanks
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007JEEP View Post
I took my 2007 jeep commander, which I bought new in 2008 as a left over, in for 30,000 mile regular maintenance. I was told I needed rear brakes, new sparks, tire rotation, transfer flluid change and oil/filter change to the tune of $1595. They offered me a 10% discount and 3 free oil changes in the future. Does this price sound reasonable? I am aware that in order to keep my power train warranty I need to keep up with the maintenance of the vehicle through the dealership. Just curious on price. Anybody have similiar situation? Thanks
My dealer quoted me around 600.00, which included: spark plugs, transmission, transfer case, and both differentials, as well as checking all the small stuff. I do not use my dealer for oil changes - it takes too long! I just received a coupon from my dealer to get an oil change and receive the next 3 free, so this part of your quote is nothing special! This quote is way too high. It would seem to me that your front brakes would go before the rears. I have 45K on mine, and I have never done the brakes! Tire rotation? Do it your self, or take it to a tire store.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 09:09 AM
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I have an 2007 as well which I bought in 2008 as left over. I had my 30.000 miles service about three months ago. I'm not sure about the exact amount but I paid less than $500. Tire rotation was excluded , can do that for free at Tire discount.
I'll see if I can find the receipt tonight and give you an overview of the cost per service item on the bill.
$1595 IS DEFINITLY WAY TOO MUCH!!!!!

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007JEEP View Post
I took my 2007 jeep commander, which I bought new in 2008 as a left over, in for 30,000 mile regular maintenance. I was told I needed rear brakes, new sparks, tire rotation, transfer flluid change and oil/filter change to the tune of $1595. They offered me a 10% discount and 3 free oil changes in the future. Does this price sound reasonable? I am aware that in order to keep my power train warranty I need to keep up with the maintenance of the vehicle through the dealership. Just curious on price. Anybody have similiar situation? Thanks
That price is outrageous, its just sad how many horror stories we hear on this forum about Dealerships gouging people.

1st-You do NOT have to have the vehicle serviced by the Dealership to maintain the warranty. BUT, be prepared to defend your own or independent shop servicing if you have a warranty claim. So make sure you keep good records, including receipts, and use the specified fluids and parts in servicing (identify the fluid in the servicing records, either by specific long name, part#, etc), you can find the info in your owners manual for the specified fluids.

I hate when people are vague, you need new rear brakes? If your rear brakes failed and need replaced in less than 30k miles, that should be covered under warranty. Completely replacing the rear brakes would justify the $1600 quote; but they should be doing the rear brakes under warranty.

I suspect, your rear brake "PADS" have worn out, which would be normal wear and would NOT be covered under the warranty. Replacing rear brake "PADS", plus the other servicing you stated should NOT add up close to the price they are quoting you.

You can inspect the pads and rotors yourself and can tell how close they are to wearing out, it takes a whole 2 minutes, I would check and see if they are BS'ing you. Its rare the rear brake pads would wear out faster then the front pads, they usually last twice as long as the front pads, have you had your front brake pads replaced earlier? If NOT, that makes me even more suspicious.

NOTE, there is a difference, if the dealer is telling you need new rear brakes, other than normal wear, it should be done under warranty, unless they can prove it was the result of neglect or abuse, needing new brake pads and having rotors turned is normal wear and NOT covered under warranty, but is NOT that expensive of servicing. The dealer service writer should have made it clear to you what is wrong with the rear brakes and how much it would cost to correct it within in that $1600 quote, and also made it clear why it was NOT covered under the warranty.

__________________________________________________ ____________

I do all this stuff myself, so I don't pay for labor, and Dealerships will always round up on labor to next highest hour and charge you for the full hour.
  • rear brakes pads ($75-$110 parts/supplies, 1 hour labor)
  • new spark plugs ($24 parts/supplies, 1 hour labor)
  • tire rotation ($0 parts/supplies, 1/2 hour labor)
  • transfer flluid change ($5 parts/supplies, 1/2 hour labor)
  • oil/filter change ($20 parts/supplies, 1/2 hour labor)
  • Total = $124-$159 parts/supplies, 3.5 hours labor
Even at the outrageous rate of $120/hour labor, thats a grand total of: $579.

If you're going to use synthetic oil, add $10-$15 to the price.

Rear brakes, you can get top quality pads for $75, if they turn the rotors which they should be able to do themselves with their own machinery for a lot less, but most shops will charge you $10-$20 a rotor to turn them.

Bring it over to my house, I'll do all that for $579 and be done in one Saturday afternoon, even without all the equipment and tools the dealership has to get the job done faster. Whoops, I forgot I live in the Peoples Republic of Marland, they would zealously throw me in Jail for doing something like this.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________

We need a bad dealership directory, heck just a place scans of their service/repair qoutes online, they will speak for themselves. I've got a feeling if you posted the document, that also identified this dealership, we would tear it apart in its overcharges and that dealership would rightfully lose business.

Of course, there may be something the original poster is NOT telling us, and that could change the story, but if everything stated is correct, I smell a bad dealership trying to gouge customers.

Last edited by Mongo; 12-02-2010 at 10:07 AM.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:31 AM
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I've seen this $1500 price before. I'm assuming this commander is the hemi. There are 16 plugs in the hemi i believe.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mjh2157 View Post
I've seen this $1500 price before. I'm assuming this commander is the hemi. There are 16 plugs in the hemi i believe.
Are they SOLID GOLD Spark Plugs?

But, that is a good point, in my own write up above, I assumed a V6 for the price of parts/supplies for spark plugs. A hemi I would imagine, the cost of platinum plugs (if they are called for) could easily be as high as $96 for all 16, even more I would NOT find unreasonable.

BUT, $5 short of $1600, it just doesn't jive, I'd like to see the itemized list of costs and labor for each item. As well, a 2nd opinion on the rear brakes.

It might just be my pet peeve, but why do people refer to normal brake service as getting "NEW" Brakes? You need oil & filter changed on the trans or engine, you wouldn't say, I need a "NEW" trans or engine. Someone needs new shocks, you wouldn't say, I need a "NEW" suspension. And that leads to people paying $500 for a new set of pads installed, because they are getting "NEW" brakes, or people coming away with a quote for repairing a major brake failures, needing very epensive components replaced, stating it must be a rip-off, because "NEW" brakes only cost $100, the last time I got "NEW" brakes.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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MONGO...

Thanks for the reply post. If you don't mind i am going to get back to you this afternoon when I get my receipt. I think there was more work beibng done than I know about, but I want to see if you think I got gauged when you see what was done. Do you mind taking a look?
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007JEEP View Post
...I think there was more work beibng done than I know about...
Thats NOT good, do you mean, there is more work being performed that you listed in your original post, you couldn't remember everything that was on the list, when you went over it with the service writer? They should NOT, and in most states, CAN NOT, perform work you did NOT authorize? Which means you discussed it and agreed to it.

Why NOT scan and post it on the forum as a picture? The problem is, since auto repair is my hobby and I do all my work myself, I'm probably less familiar with the going rate for a certain repair than most people.

I certainly am good to tell you how much I would pay for the parts/supplies for the job, dealerships often mark up parts/supplies costs a lot higher, and how long it would usually take me to do the job, which a dealership with better tools/equipment/training and pro's rehearsed in performing the jobs, should be able to do it faster than I can; but dealerships use a guidebook for the time it takes to complete a job, and charge labor according to the guidebook, regardless of how long it takes to complete the job.

So it will help to have some other opinions with people that have paid dealerships and independent mechanics to do these jobs and have a better idea what is the typical "fair" charge. From me, you'll get a drastically lower estimate, from a DIY'er that buys the parts/supplies without the big mark-up and doesn't pay anything for labor.

Beware of double charging on labor, out of one side of their mouth, the shop will tell you if you need a big job done that requires a lot of labor to tear apart a big component, that you would be wise to also do a several other jobs early in the middle of this, because each of the jobs require doing the same high amount of labor. Which makes sense, why tear apart a big component, and NOT repalce the other things that are likely to fail soon, if you don't, you'll just have to come back and pay to have it torn all apart again to replace another part that you could have had done earlier while it was already apart. BUT, out of the other side of their mouth, they will then proceed to add up the full labor to do each part seperately, knowing full well, they are NOT doing that much labor, they are just tearing the component apart once to repalce 3 parts, NOT tearing it apart and putting it back together 3 times to replace 3 parts, but they charge you like they are doing that.

Keep in mind, when a dealership or independent mechanic charges you for labor, is NOT what the actual mechanic gets paid, the shop owner has a lot of expenses to keep a roof over the shop and to pay for the tools and equipment to do the repairs, that is built into the labor rate and often costs more than what the mechanic gets paid.

As well, most bad dealerships treat their mechanics as badly as the customers, poor pay, rewarding them for poor behaviour, like cutting corners and producing quantity over quality, the best mechanics get stuck with the time consuming tough jobs that pay them less, and the bad mechanics get the quick easy jobs that pay out more per the day. Yes, they often pay the mechanics by the job, NOT a salary or hourly by when they clock into work. They'll commend a mechanic for having a zero return rate, i.e. he does the job right the first time, but fire him the next week, because he doesn't turn over enough jobs per week like the other mechanics. Then they'll offer a minor scolding to mechanics that every other job is returned to be repaired again, because they cut huge corners and do a horribly sloppy job, but keep them on the pay roll forever because they turn over so much more jobs per week than the others.

And its the Dealership owner that makes all the money, NOT the mechanics, so don't blame the mechanics, blame the management.

There are good dealerships out there that don't treat their people or customers this way, sadly, since there are so many ignorant consumers out there, just waiting to get suckered, the bad dealerships can get away with it, and there is little incentive in getting ahead with good honest business practices.

Last edited by Mongo; 12-02-2010 at 01:35 PM.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 01:19 PM
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That price is outrageous!!! That's more than what the 60,000 service should cost.


BTW, 2 things:

1. Yes, the rear brake pads tend to wear faster on the XK, especially if your driving style is generally light braking.

2. The Hemi does not require any fancy plugs. Copper comes standard. Some of us have put in platinum or iridium for performance and/or to extend the service intervals.




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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 01:37 PM
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Yea, 2007Jeep said they were performing more work that he did NOT know about, I'm hoping he meant, more work then he remembered to list in the original post.

BUT, $1600 for 30k mile servicing, I'm suspicious, unless the vehicle has some real problems they are repairing the same time as the servicing, and 2007Jeep forgot to mention the problems that are being repaired, there is something wrong.
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