In Need of Help! Changing Brake pads and possibly rotors - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Regular Service / Maintenance This section contains discussion about regular service and maintenance (upkeep) of your Jeep Commander

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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In Need of Help! Changing Brake pads and possibly rotors

Hello, its been quite some time...
Long enought that I need to replance at least the brake pads if not the rotors to be safe. However I am a novice at mechanical work and don't want to get in too far over my head. I have searched for a "How to" on such an installation through the site and haven't come up with anything...I have never changed brake pads before always had the mechanic do it. What is there to watch out for?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 11:27 AM
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Its pretty straight forward thing to do. Pull of the old ones and slap in the new ones. Just make sure you have the correct tool to push the caliper piston back in not sure witch one the XK takes my ford took a special tool available for loan at most parts stores as well as the lube packs to grease the slides.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GetNby View Post
Hello, its been quite some time...
Long enought that I need to replance at least the brake pads if not the rotors to be safe. However I am a novice at mechanical work and don't want to get in too far over my head. I have searched for a "How to" on such an installation through the site and haven't come up with anything...I have never changed brake pads before always had the mechanic do it. What is there to watch out for?
See this thread---> https://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12961&highlight=brakes

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 11:56 AM
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Here is what my special tool looks like. Any Good C-clamp should work. Just leave the old pad on to compress the piston then remove the pad when compressed.



like this pic. Just go slow when compressing.


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by D-niceCommander View Post
Here is what my special tool looks like. Any Good C-clamp should work. Just leave the old pad on to compress the piston then remove the pad when compressed.



like this pic. Just go slow when compressing.
Is the silverfish optional ?

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-niceCommander View Post
Here is what my special tool looks like. Any Good C-clamp should work. Just leave the old pad on to compress the piston then remove the pad when compressed.



like this pic. Just go slow when compressing.
Your special tool looks just like my special tool....... and I never found a vehicle it wouldn't work on.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 05:32 PM
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Is the silverfish optional ?

Lol! I googled C-clamp and that was one of the first pics. Not my silverfish. But it looks just like my clamp. Mine might have mice droppings on it its in my shed. So the silverfish might be a better photo.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 06:43 PM
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FYI thats what I had in my box as well. The tool I needed actually turned the piston while pushing it back in. The passenger side turned counter clock wise and the driver side turned clock wise. My C-clamp would not push the piston in at all thats how I found out about the new pistons on some vehicles needing this tool


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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 07:23 PM
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BRAVO, use one of the old pads between the "C"-Clamp and the Piston, it will protect the surface of the piston and distribute the load/force over the face of piston and help force it back STRAIGHT.

I hear/see to many people push the piston back by putting the "C"-Clamp directly on the piston, on one side, since the center is hollow, or even use big channel lock pliers to force the piston back.

Chrysler uses phenolic pistons, NOT metal, in their brakes, they have their advantages, but surface hardness is NOT one of them, its easy to chip, crack, break the piston if you use the wrong tool or force it the wrong way.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 08:42 AM
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FYI thats what I had in my box as well. The tool I needed actually turned the piston while pushing it back in. The passenger side turned counter clock wise and the driver side turned clock wise. My C-clamp would not push the piston in at all thats how I found out about the new pistons on some vehicles needing this tool
I haven't done any brake work on my Commander yet (other than fresh brake fluid).

So, the pistons need to rotate as they are forced back into the bore of caliper? This requires a special tool?

Most of the earlier Chrysler calipers, with phenolic pistons, I've pulled them apart and rebuilt them, there was nothing in them that would force the piston to rotate, the seal, cylinder and piston all smooth bore.

BUT, things change, really just looking for a comfirmation.
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