Anyone replaced front seal? - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone replaced front seal?

Hey guys,
I noticed my front seal is leaking somewhat bad. (half dollar size on ground after driving) Has anyone replaced the front seal on the XK, 4.7? I did some searching, but haven't come across anything.

Thanks for any input on the subject

Blue 2006 Jeep Commander Limited, 4.7L... AFE, Flow Master 50, Jeep Slush Mats, Grab Handles, 1.5" spidertrax, RC 2", and hacked AVIC-Z120BT w/ infinity refs all around + 320GB music library. Need a basket badly! Also need new rear bumper! (dam u blind spot)
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 02:44 PM
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I've never done it on a Commander, but done it on other vehicles. The pic I saw of the front seal on the commander is similar to the ones I've done before.

Anyone have advice for pulling the front engine damper? It appears to me to be like the damper on my 2.0L and 3.3L Chrysler, its a tight interference fit. Hopefully someone that has pulled a damper off a 3.7L or 4.7L will chime in and confirm that it is like the other Chrysler motors I have done this job.

A lot of DIY'er mangle the crank threads pulling the damper, because they use cheap pullers and just rest the puller bolt on the opening for the threads on the crank.

I got an extra grade 8 bolt that is longer than OEM from the hardware store, thread it down, till it bottoms out, torque it a bit, and press against the bolt to force the damper off.

Once you've got the damper off, use some masking tape to protect the crank from scratches and pry the old seal out. Find a socket that fits over the crank and on the metal collar of the new seal and tap the new seal in lightly with a hammer on the socket.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. It doesn't seem too hard. I took it to one place, but they want $400 bucks to do it. (that's my new roof rack I want)

Are the tools rented at places like auto zone good? I have never rented anything from them.

Thanks again for the help.

Blue 2006 Jeep Commander Limited, 4.7L... AFE, Flow Master 50, Jeep Slush Mats, Grab Handles, 1.5" spidertrax, RC 2", and hacked AVIC-Z120BT w/ infinity refs all around + 320GB music library. Need a basket badly! Also need new rear bumper! (dam u blind spot)
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 10:49 AM
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My front right driveshaft seal is leaking(110,000 miles) and the dodge dealer quoted me 243 bucks to change it. Doesn't seem too bad at all...
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 01:27 PM
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I have never done this on a Commander, but done it several times on other vehicles, so take this with a grain of salt and just a general guide to judge if you think you can do it yourself.

You have to pull the harmonic damper off the front of the engine, this may require you to remove the radiator to have the room to do it. Meaning you also have to buy G-05 anti-freeze to replace what you drain.

From what I can tell, the Commander has NON-indexed, NON-keyed damper on its engines, like a lot of Chrysler engines of late. This harmonic damper/pulley has a very tight interference fit and it will need a good quality, several ton puller to pull it, with an insert to protect the threads of the open bolt hole in the crank (you can improvise by getting a longer bolt of the proper threads at the hardware store, make sure its grade8 SAE or grade 10.8 Metric at least). You'll of course have to remove the accessory belt and maybe even the fan for access, before pulling the damper/pulley.

Once you pull the damper, you just have to pull the seal in the front cover. Just wrap tape around the crank snout to protect it from scratching and then use a narrow and long straight edge screw driver to pry up one edge and pop out the seal from the front cover.

Fit the new seal over the opening, make sure its even, place a proper fitting Deep Well socket that clears the crank snout over the metal portion of the seal and tap it down flush with the cover.

Re-assemble is reverse, use the longer bolt for the damper, so you get more thread bite, to force the damper on the crank snout, use washers with grease between them and even some deep well sockets as spacers as you drive on the damper on the end of the crank. An air impact wrench helps with this immensly, but you can do it with a very large screw driver or pry bar as a lever against one of the spokes of the pulley against a bose on the front of the engine to keep the crank from rotating with the bolt tightening down the damper.


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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies. I think this may be somewhat beyond my ability. I think i am going to shop around for someone else to do it. There is a new firestone at my base, maybe they will give me a good deal.

Blue 2006 Jeep Commander Limited, 4.7L... AFE, Flow Master 50, Jeep Slush Mats, Grab Handles, 1.5" spidertrax, RC 2", and hacked AVIC-Z120BT w/ infinity refs all around + 320GB music library. Need a basket badly! Also need new rear bumper! (dam u blind spot)
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