Stalling - IAC valve - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Stalling - IAC valve

Hello all - new to the forum. Just bought my wife an 06 commander with 5.7 Hemi. About a mile down the road, after she first starts it in the morning, it will stall out at the red light. I know it's still somewhat cold but this doesn't seem normal at all to me. I called the dealer and he suggested looking at the IAC valve. I tried searching this forum for previous threads but couldn't find any (probably user error). Found one on the wrangler forum is all. I just need to know where the IAC is located on the commander Hemi and how to take it off and clean it. Pretty sure that's what's causing the stalling based on what dealer said plus other forums. Thanks
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 06:52 AM
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I've had a similar problem with rough idling, and attempted stalls til I pulled the IAC valve. I sprayed/cleaned it with carburater cleaner. I have the 3.7l, and the aic is located under the air intake plenum, front right side of mass air flow, attached with one torx screw and a small wiring harness. Also sprayed down inside of mass air flow and housing of aic. Wipe clean excessive cleaner on/inside unit. When spraying the inside of iac, careful not to saturate the black plastic body of the iac, this is the motor and you could damage it. Also, careful not to damage the two o-rings on the outside of the iac.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks I'll check it out again.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 01:27 PM
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Drive-by-Wire Throttle Bodies do NOT have an IAC, the PCM has total control of the Butterfly and justs opens/closes it as necessary to control idle.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but does NOT ever Commander Hemi have Drive-by-Wire?

If that is the case, cleaning the whole TB may help.

First thing I would do is check for any stored fault codes and correct those. There is a sticky on how to do the key dance to get the Odometer/EVIC to read out stored fault codes. Correct any problem you find and the will likely solve the problem.

Using higher then recommended/needed Octane makes for hard cold starting and more likely to stall when the motor is cold. Using higher then recommended/necessary octane rarely gets you any kind of improvement in anything, best to use the recommended octane.

Ignition is a big one for cold stalling, if your due for new spark plugs and/or ignition wire, I'd change them and see if that improves things.

Dirty Fuel Injectors can do it also, I'd add Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner (I've heard that is the best f.i. cleaner).


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 10:49 AM
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I'm not sure what a drive-by wire throttle body is, but I did remove a carbon filled sensor on the inlet side of the throttle body, clean it, reinstall and it now idles much smoother AND does not try to stall on cold starts. I'm pretty sure this sensor is the IAC. Right next to this is I believe the throttle positioning sensor, which looks like it controls the butterfly? not sure. If I had more time, would love to have removed the entire throttle body and polish it.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhobll View Post
I'm not sure what a drive-by wire throttle body is, but I did remove a carbon filled sensor on the inlet side of the throttle body, clean it, reinstall and it now idles much smoother AND does not try to stall on cold starts. I'm pretty sure this sensor is the IAC. Right next to this is I believe the throttle positioning sensor, which looks like it controls the butterfly? not sure. If I had more time, would love to have removed the entire throttle body and polish it.
DBW means that there is no throttle cable. With DBW the throttle is computer controlled in relation to the position of the gas pedal.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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All...thanks. Here's more info. First, we use 89 octane gas as recommended for the hemi. Second, the PCM was replaced not too long ago. There are no lights coming on, and it did it stalled again today while my wife was simply slowing down to a stop. The engine had been warmed up already fer a bit.

I will try cleaning the TB and do the fuel injector cleaner. I will advise (so there is a TB right?)
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Updates - the hemi does NOT have an IAC, and you can't clean the TB, because it is electronic (contained) drive by wire. My wife will warm up the jeep, for instance this morning, after she started it, she gave it a little extra gas before pulling out, and no stalling up the road. I did speak to one of the local jeep mechanics and he suggested that the coolant temperature sensor may be a cause of the intermittent stalling. I looked up what this sensor does, in relation to the PCM, and holy crap! This little sensor controls/monitors a BUNCH of stuff. So I may end up draining some coolant and putting in a new one. I also ran the key trick and found no fault codes (DTC - done), so I'm going to have to go with that. Don't know what else to do other than the fuel injector cleaner. The ignition coil pack and plugs were replaced at 62k miles.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 10:55 AM
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Sounds like a cheap and simple hopeful solution to me. I'd do it. Sometimes using the process of elimination, starting with the cheapest and easiest repairs is the way to go. By the way, cleaning the IAC and throttle body on my 3.7l did some good, although the hesitation, or attempts to stall are still happening. I'll look into the coolant sensor as well and post later.
Good luck.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 11:44 PM
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My 3.7L had a rough idle after it has warmed up. I took it to the dealer to have the throttle body cleaned and reflash either the TCM or PCM. So far, the idle has been very smooth. I Hope my two cents help.

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