Maintenance 101: 4.7L Exhaust Leak Repair - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Maintenance 101: 4.7L Exhaust Leak Repair

I had a bad exhaust leak on my 4.7L WK and figured some of you might have the same issue. Not a hard repair, just a day in the driveway! Please let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYn_i...ature=youtu.be

Thanks,
Jack
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 08:16 PM
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Hey Jack,

I watched your video and finally mustered up the courage to do it to my 06' Commander. I went to the local Mopar guys and got the bolts and gaskets which wasn't too expensive. After about 5 hours I got the drivers side done and the passenger side took about 4.5 hours. Not too bad just no room to move and it can be frustrating. Thanks for the great video. I took a bunch of pictures I'll try to post them soon. I had 1 bolt on the drivers' side and 2 on the passenger side that were broken but luckily with a little PB blaster they came out with my vise-grips. I was worried that i'd have to pull a head, but thankfully I didn't have to. I loved firing it up and not hearing that darn leak. Hey, while I was at it. I took my dremel and polished the exhaust manifolds out! haha I'm sure i'll get about 2/3 of a HP out of it. Sure was worth saving $1200 bucks to have the dealership do it.

Jake


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II, Silver Ext. Grey Interior. K&N filter. 2'' RC lift, Superlift Nitro Shocks, AEM Brute Force Intake, 1.5'' RC Spacers, 265/70/17 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Superchips Flashpaq. Flowmaster Super 40.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 09:36 AM
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Great video!
I take it there are a total of 8 bolts, 4 studs and 4 bolts? ( not counting the flange bolts)
Were you able to get at all of the bolts and studs through the wheel well?
Did you have to order the bolts and studs through the dealership?
Did you use any lock tight when putting the bolts and studs back in?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 10:55 AM
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**** I haven't done exhaust manifold bolts on a Commander, I've done them on other vehicles/engines, so as general advice *****

If there are any TSB instructions or factory instructions that come with a "Kit", I would follow those instructions to the letter. Usually if you've got something that is a "fix" for a common problem, engineers have worked out a tested method for fixing the problem, follow that tested method to the letter to avoid the problem re-occurring. I.e. What exactly to use on the threads, torques, torque sequences, etc.

But, if you just bought the hardware, and there are NO specific instructions in the FSM or a TSB, then as a General Rule:

For exhaust manifold/header bolts use,
- On threads going into the head - Use Hi-Temp Red Loctite*
- On threads on studs that bolts go over - Use Anti-Sieze

If you don't have / can't find Hi-Temp Red Loctite, don't use regular red or blue loctite, it will just burn away and be useless, anti-seize would be better than the wrong loctite on the threads going into the head.

And yes, get the bolts/hardware from the Dealer, NOT just any old bolt (even heat treated bolts from the local hardware store). Those bolts are designed and treated for the exhaust manifold, most general hardware bolts, even those heat treated aren't correct and are far more likely to break or snap from the stress of the heat/expanding/contracting manifolds.

*Hi-Temp Red Loctite is not available in most stores, I had to order it off the internet. From loctite literature and advice on other forums, this is the stuff to use, its break away torque is much less than regular red loctite (i.e. you can unbolt it if you need too) and the holding strength reduces to pretty much the same as blue loctite after exposure to the heat of exhaust. Regular loctite burns away on exhaust bolts, it won't be there in a few hours. Even the Hi-Temp stuff, after a few years it will be gone to.

I would think anti-seize would be better than nothing, preventing the corrosion and seizing in the head of the bolts does help prevent them from snapping off in the future, and anti-seize would do that.

Just be aware that lots of anti-seize will lube up the thread and reduce the friction/torque to get the same clamping force. I.E. if your using a torque wrench on a bolt that has lots of anti-seize on it, the spec torque can actually overtorque the bolt, and a stud/bolt into aluminum heads? You can strip out the threads on the aluminum head, reduce the torque by 15%-25% if you use lots of anti-seize on bolts that have a dry thread Torque Spec. (unless it specifies in the torque spec its for wet/lubed threads, assume its for dry threads).


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Last edited by Mongo; 07-28-2014 at 11:01 AM.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 12:04 PM
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Thanks, I just went by the dealership and ordered the bolts and studs.
They did have some in stock but not all of them.
The studs he showed me already had some type of lock tight on them.
I am not sure he ordered the right bolts though. He said it took 8 studs total. From looking at the video there are 4 studs and 4 bolts.
I will see when I pick them up. Total price was $46.66 for the studs and I hope bolts (dealership) and $12.32 for the gaskets. (Oreillys)
The Haynes does show a torque value and torque sequence.

06 Jeep Commander, 4.7L, 2 inch OME lift, 265/70x17 tires, Rocky Road sliders
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
The studs he showed me already had some type of lock tight on them.
I bet that the new studs are new part number to fix this know problem, i.e. the coating is there to help prevent future studs seizing and snapping off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
I am not sure he ordered the right bolts though. He said it took 8 studs total. From looking at the video there are 4 studs and 4 bolts.
I have NOT done the job, nor do I have a 4.7L, but that doesn't sound wrong to me. Are you sure you're NOT thinking of just one side, and NOT doubling the numbers for both sides? 8 fastners per exhaust manifold sounds right for a V8 (2 fastners per port), only 4 fasteners per exhaust manifold sounds awful skimpy, but again I'm just guessing.

A quick google search showed this?
http://www.justforjeeps.com/macuor1.html#prettyPhoto
Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
The Haynes does show a torque value and torque sequence.
Haynes are the worst of all the repair manuals. I do a google search, hopefully someone on this forum has a FSM that can tell you the exact torque sequence and torque specs.

They don't mention that on the Youtube video?


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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 03:47 PM
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The factory manual I have gives:

Tighten all manifold bolts starting at center and working
outward to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)

Heat shield nuts 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45 degrees

front exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly to exhaust manifold bolts (2) to 26 Nm (19 in. lbs.) torque.



For part numbers I show PN 06508220AA Studs-4; PN 06507746AA Bolts-8; PN 06508219AA Studs-4. 8 fasteners per side with the bolts in the middle, longer studs on the two rear spots and shorter studs on the front.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 05:09 PM
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I guess I am getting the right bolts and studs then.
My receipt shows the same part numbers.
My Haynes also shows the same torque numbers and torque sequence.
Hopefully I will be doing this on Thursday. I will get back to you when I am done.

06 Jeep Commander, 4.7L, 2 inch OME lift, 265/70x17 tires, Rocky Road sliders
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-29-2014, 07:52 AM
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Again, I haven't done this job, nor watched the video, but judging from the pictures of the hardware and the diagrams (as well as the torque specs) it doesn't look like these "studs" are true studs when it comes to the exhaust manifold?

If looks more like exhaust manifold bolts that have a stud extending out the top for the heat shield?

Do you remove the nut off the stud (the nut that clamps down on the exhaust manifold, NOT the heat shield)? Or is the nut portion on the stud permenantly attached, you bolt the studs in using the nut (permenantly attached) like a bolt head?


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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-29-2014, 09:30 PM
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The nuts on the end of the stud holds the heat sheild. The studs hold the manifold. At least from what I can see.
Yes the nut portion is part of the stud. (perment)
Looking at my reciept again and I only show two part numbers.
4) 6508219-AA STUD DOUB 09004007
8) 6508220- AA STUD DOUB 09004007
I think they did not order the bolts. Part # 06507746 AA
I will pick them up Thursday but I have a feeling the parts are all wrong.
The guy behind the counter really did not look like he knew what he was doing.

06 Jeep Commander, 4.7L, 2 inch OME lift, 265/70x17 tires, Rocky Road sliders

Last edited by TSEJEEPERS; 07-29-2014 at 09:43 PM.
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