Radiator and brakes... - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator and brakes...

I have two separate issues with my '06 base model 3.7L Commander with 122K miles. First: last year I replaced the water pump because it was leaking. I used a Bosch and after a few months in continued to leak. My mechanic says most of the aftermarket stuff is all crap and recommends parts from the dealer. So I am planning to replace my water pump again, soon. During the previous job, while draining the fluid, nothing drained from the petcock at the bottom of the radiator. So is this something that can be fixed with DIY radiator flush? Do I need a new radiator?

Second: when I apply my brakes the vehicles makes a back and forth pulsing motion. Sometimes worse than others... sometimes not at all. Is this from worn rotors? Should they just be turned on a lathe?


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George
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 10:19 PM
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I would inspect the pads and if they are good then I would just have the rotors turned. Probably around $150 at the dealer for labor if you don't want to tackle the job. I have never messed with the radiator on my Jeep. I paid the delaer to do a coolant flush around 70k when the water pump started to drip and needed replaced.Good luck.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 10:48 PM
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if the rad is not leaking just do a flush on it. For the brakes I would recommended replacing the front pads and rotors. If your having a pulsing problem the main cause is warped rotors and just having them turned isn't going to fix the problem.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 08:44 AM
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Most definitely have warped rotors when you feel pulsation. If your pads are pretty worn, might as well replace w/ new rotors/pads. Don't get fooled by the coolant leak being related to your then replaced WP. Inspect from the bottom, going up. See if you see some pink/white path of residue. Typically when replacing WPs, you'll want to also replace the thermostat (TS) as well. The TS is between the block and the TS housing, which connects between the radiator hose and engine block. Over time the gasket between that housing and engine block will weaken and leak coolant. At least on my HEMI, it's starting to. I thought it was coming from the water pump as well...but it's still good. Good luck and keep us updated.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 09:02 AM
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During the previous job, while draining the fluid, nothing drained from the petcock at the bottom of the radiator. So is this something that can be fixed with DIY radiator flush? Do I need a new radiator?

Not sure why the rad wouldnt drain. I've had this happen and couldnt figure it out. Especially when the coolant isn't even dirty.


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info! The reason I suspected the water pump is leaking is because the fluid seems to be dripping onto the harmonic balancer, then getting splashed onto the oil filter. Weird thing is, my mechanic recognized what I was talking about and agreed I have a leak. But he said he could not reproduce the leak, even when pressurizing the coolant system. But there is definitely a leak, I am topping off my radiator weekly
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 02:51 PM
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Easiest thing to do if it's not too cold where you're at... go to a self-wash station... leave the truck running. Wash the engine bay down. Then get it home and look for the start of the leak... can be lots of small stuff too.

Did you check all the hoses at clamps to determine if the hose has worn through where clamped down? Sometimes, they just wear from vibration.

If not Thermostat housing, Water Pump, is there anything coming from the WP weep hole?

Did you check your oil? Is it milky? That could be bad...I'm assuming temperature of the Jeep is okay. If temp is going up and oil is milky could be head gasket.

Otherwise, like all above said flush radiator, monitor hoses, replace thermostat and gasket, then go waterpump and gasket. Chances are it's a gasket or hose that's worn.

Or of course could be the radiator leaking and you can't see it because it's covered or leaking from the side.

Good luck - keep us posted.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Wp/thermostat project

Quote:
Originally Posted by xclnce View Post
easiest thing to do if it's not too cold where you're at... Go to a self-wash station... Leave the truck running. Wash the engine bay down. Then get it home and look for the start of the leak... Can be lots of small stuff too.

Did you check all the hoses at clamps to determine if the hose has worn through where clamped down? Sometimes, they just wear from vibration.

If not thermostat housing, water pump, is there anything coming from the wp weep hole?

Did you check your oil? Is it milky? That could be bad...i'm assuming temperature of the jeep is okay. If temp is going up and oil is milky could be head gasket.

Otherwise, like all above said flush radiator, monitor hoses, replace thermostat and gasket, then go waterpump and gasket. Chances are it's a gasket or hose that's worn.

Or of course could be the radiator leaking and you can't see it because it's covered or leaking from the side.

Good luck - keep us posted.
no apparent wear on the hoses. Not able to visualize the weep hole, but i think that's where my mechanic suspected the leak is coming from. No milky oil... Thank god!


Quote:
Originally Posted by xkjeep06 View Post
most definitely have warped rotors when you feel pulsation. If your pads are pretty worn, might as well replace w/ new rotors/pads. Don't get fooled by the coolant leak being related to your then replaced wp. Inspect from the bottom, going up. See if you see some pink/white path of residue. Typically when replacing wps, you'll want to also replace the thermostat (ts) as well. The ts is between the block and the ts housing, which connects between the radiator hose and engine block. Over time the gasket between that housing and engine block will weaken and leak coolant. At least on my hemi, it's starting to. I thought it was coming from the water pump as well...but it's still good. Good luck and keep us updated.
i'll have my rotors checked next. My wp and thermostat finally arrived so i'm tackling that job this weekend. A couple questions, and forgive me if these are answered elsewhere in this forum, but... Is there a particular order in which the wp bolts should be tightened? Also, what are the torque specs for the wp and idler pulley?


Cheers!
George
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 10:41 AM
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On the radiator drain, it moves some and then gets harder to move before it opens, must move about a 1/2 turn and moves out toward the rear before it will drain.

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