I just got the commander a month ago with 27k miles on it. So I never changed it. It could also be that I have $300 pads on my benz so this feels weak. I will give them some more time see how they feel. Btw the breaks felt good today or it could be me getting use to them.
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Hmmmm, sounds like something is wrong? Your pads/rotors were worn out with only 27k miles on them? Most people get 3, almost 4, times that many miles on the OEM pads?
Was this veicle used in the mountains/extremely hilly areas? Was it used for towing heavy loads often?
BTW, brake fluid doesn't deteriorate with useage (i.e. mileage) it detiorates with age (i.e. how long its been in the system). So a low mileage vehicle that is 8 years old could have bad brake fluid, although I doubt its the problem. Bad brake fluid will have a lower boiling temp, but still needs to get pretty hot to boil, so you likely would have normal braking until the brake got hot, then it would require pushing the pedal to the floor to get a small amount of braking. Bad brake fluid will fail to protect the brake components, and you start to have seal failures, sticking calipers/pistons and internal corrosion problems.
Good pads and rotors will bed in within the first few stops, inferior pads rotors might take several hundred miles to bed in.
I have no idea how well Mercedes brake, but the Commander has some big brakes on it and it has "BAS" that will help it stop hard when it senses the driver doing a panic stop, I consider my Commander one of the better braking vehicles I have owned, and definitely better than,
"feel like i need to put my foot through the floor for it to stop"
So maybe its the pads/rotors you selected, but I doubt even that, I have used Wearever Platinum and Wagner rotors on other vehicles and got at least the same as OEM brake performance, and I think most people have that experience.
So, I'm guessing you may have something else wrong with your brakes. Perhaps a bad seal or air in the system.
One check, with the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times to use up all the vacuum in the brake booster, then wait for a few minutes to let the brakes hydraulics to go back to their normal resting state. Push the pedal hard, see how far it will go down without booster assitance, it should only move a fraction of an inch before the force to push climbs huge, if the pedal moves a lot more, than pump the pedal and see if the pedal gets harder and the pressure builds sooner? If it does, that is a classic symptom of air in the brakes.
BTW, for normal, even aggressive, street driving, the drilled and slotted rotors are just gimmics, they don't do anything. In fact, cheap versions are often just stock rotors drilled and/or slots cut in them, and that weakens the rotors and makes them last shorter and perform worse. As well, the holes/slots shave the pads and reduce their life greatly. Even race teams, take drilled/slotted rotors off their cars that they came stock and replace them with solid surface rotors, (Depending on the car and type of racing).
Also, the HAWK pads, I've only tried them on my little Neon R/T because all the Neon crowd swore by them. At least on my little Neon R/T they are trash, ok they are better than most cheap pads, but NOT even as good as the OEM pads for my R/T (The R/T and ACR came with better stopping pads than the other trim levels). The best high performance Pad I have found has been EBC GreenStuff, well they have different colors/forumlas for different applications, I think for SUV they recommend their YellowStuff. Yes, it could be totally different for an SUV or the Commander itself, but the one time I have tried EBC Greenstuff and Hawk pads on the same vehicle, the EBC Greenstuff kicked the Hawk pads A$$.