Undercoating Conundrum - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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Undercoating Conundrum

Hey guys and gals!

Okay so I have been power washing, sanding, rust removing and priming my frame and all other bits and pieces that might see the super hot roads here in the tundra... There's more salt on our road then there is in a packets of ramen noodles... My primer is a black rust-o-lem and I still have more parts to paint up.... I want to put a final coat of some thing durable and somewhat long lasting but do not want to pay Z-Barts 1.2k to do it since I just bought my Jeep and want the experience myself...

Here's what I was thinking..

On the Frame and non moving underbody I was thinking of doing a rhino lining type coating and cover generously. On parts that are going to be moving, bending and twerking I was going to spray with a flexible rubberized undercoating. This would even get sprayed on the bushings since the life expectancy around here for bushing, thanks to salt, is about as long as a cicada.

Is this a good idea???

My final question is what products do you guys & gals use and have success with??? There are so many products in the world of automobiles that promise the world but like a lady of the night, are usually cheap and dont last long.

Thanks
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 10:54 AM
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I crawled underneath and used black antirust rustoleum on all the rusted spots. I'd like to get it on a lift and really go over it.


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2006 3.7l Silver black and crome Sport W QT1
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 01:36 PM
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I've used Rust-Oleums "Rusty Metal" primer, it has fish oil mixed into it and is extremely effective at stopping rust, just like advertised, I have sprayed it on rusty metal and for years it stayed and did NOT let the rust spread.

They warn though, there has to be some rust to use this primer on, if you use it on clean metal the fish oil will come to the surface and cause any topcoat over it to peel away.

The rusty metal primer is a flat brown color, almost rust color ironically.

I have used 3M rubberized undercoating, that advertises it has no tar in it. Its expensive, but it looks great and it works great. i.e. cheapo undercoating that is mostly tar is like $4 a spray can, the 3M high quality stuff is like $10 a spray can.

One other tip I have never tried, but I have heard it works great, spray "Bar & Chain" oil all over the underside prior to winter. It designed for chainsaws (bare metal exposed to the outdoor elements), its thick and sticks to the surface, it has additives in it to protect against the elements and fight rust on metal. You may need a special spray gun and air compressor, or you could always paint it on with a brush.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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I know a farm the when he does oil changed he uses the old oil on his frame and underneath his vehicle. Then he drives down and a dirt road and the oil get a nice coat of grit on it.I could help but laugh and also feel terrified to ever have to work underneath it. This commander is the only woman I'll ever love since she will never have any complaints of letting me inside her, so I think I might just go with the 3m. Does it need a rustoleum base coat as well. I might put that on and my father seems to think it might be over kill bit to me, when it come to protecting against rust I feel there is no over kill
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 03:02 PM
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If the metal/paint clean? If there is rust, even a little bit, I would prime it with the Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primary. Large areas with good paint, I would clean it well, then coat the rusty areas with the Rusty Metal Primer and then paint it all with the 3M rubberized undercoat.

http://914electric.wordpress.com/201...coat-shootout/

The 3M Professional Rubberized Undercoating looks even better.

Stay away from the cheapest cans of undercoating, if it doesn't say "contains NO TAR", then it likely has tar and it will look awful, take weeks to dry and won't be nearly as tough.


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 08:45 PM
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There's always the option of getting the Commander Ziebart
http://www.ziebart.com/

It cost me $275 at the Ziebart location in St Louis -- I got the underbody protection and the rust proofing. I had it done in Jan 2011 ---

It has been perfect ever since and covers the entire underside of the commander... in addition the rust proofing they put on is by drilling holes (i know it sounds scary) in very specific spots of the doors, rear lift gates, etc and spraying in a wax material --- prevents your fenders and doors, etc from rusting away years from now.

It smells like crap afterwards for a couple weeks so keep it out of your garage.

Hope this helps.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 08:47 PM
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okay --- so i'm an idiot and should've read your initial post all the way through that stated you didn't want to go to ziebart.... haha ...sorry for post.

That said, i have the receipt for 275 for both ...not 1200 ... for me it was worth just having them do both underbody and rust proofing the panels.

Not sure you want to try the latter on your own.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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Believe me ziebart was my first idea and I had to ask him if the quote he gave was correct. There are a few different shop around my area so I figure I'll call around and see if the quote is any different. I don't mind doing it myself It'll give me a chance to take all the panels off and clean up any areas inside the engine compartment with might have crud all over them.
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