Water Pump, Thermostat, and Gauges - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Regular Service / Maintenance This section contains discussion about regular service and maintenance (upkeep) of your Jeep Commander

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Water Pump, Thermostat, and Gauges

Howdy!

My 2007 started getting hot one day and was dripping antifreeze all over. The coolant was low, so I filled it up and took it to the shop. They changed the Water Pump and Thermostat.

When I picked up my jeep, it had all new gauge problems going on. The Malfunction Indicator light stayed on, and soon after, the )z( Electronic Throttle Control light came on with "Check Gauges." I also noticed the temp gauge stayed all the way Cold, instead of straight up. I cycled the engine and the ETC light turned off, but the temperature gauge shot up to Hot, and said "Check Gauges" and "Transmission Over Temp." Everything looked normal under the hood.

I took my kids to school this morning and had the exact same results. Also, when the gauge was on cold, my heater blew cold, but I didn't try it when it was on Hot.

I don't know alot about what's going on, but if anyone does, please let me know. I'd rather fix it myself than take it back to the folks who gave it to me with more issues.

Thanks
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 08:38 AM
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What engine/trans/4WD system do you have on your Commander?


Most of the Commander Engines are difficult to drain and refill, trapping air bubbles in the cooling system. Until those air bubbles work their way out of the cooling system, they can cause spikes in temp and momentary overheating (which isn't good for the aluminum heads). The "Transmission Over Temp" message is very common with the temp spike from air bubbles just after refilling the cooling system, it goes away after the cooling system starts working right. That also will light MIL/CEL on the dash.


The Electronic Throttle Control light coming on is a new one to me? I didn't think that would be related, but I have had it come on when temps were extremely cold and I had a bad Coolant Temp Sensor and it malfunctioned as well, it was cleared by just restarting the engine.


The guys you took it to clearly screwed up, every manual and procedure makes this air bubble issue very clear, how you have to remove an air bleed plug to fill from there to get all the air out of the system. Likely they didn't follow it and just filled up the cooling system by pouring coolant into the pressure cap opening.


When the engine is cold, you can open the pressure cap and add coolant (make sure you use the right anti-freeze, and check if the hacks that did the repair used the right HOAT anti-freeze; most the stuff on the store shelves won't identify what kind of anti-freeze it is and its the wrong stuff for your Commander and most cars). Idle the motor till it warms up, let it cool, open the pressure cap again, and fill with coolant, keep repeating this until the air has worked its way out of the system. Make sure the overflow tank is at the proper level and keep adding to bring it up, once all the air has worked the way out of the system, the overflow tank will stay at its proper level unless you have a leak.


OR, you could open the bleed port and fill from there like the manuals recommend, that will get out enough air you won't have problems, just might have to top off once or twice later as the final air works it way out of the system.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the help. I have a an automatic, 2WD, 6 cyl.

I called the shop to see what kind of coolant they used, so I could add more of the same, and they said "green, anything green"... Is that really how you tell what the correct coolant is? Aren't most of them green?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 02:35 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
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Requires a HOAT antifreeze, it's orange or yellow. If they put in Green its wrong and needs to be fully drained/flushed and HOAT put in or it will damage the engine. This wasn't a dealer I'd guess.

06 Commander Limited Hemi - QDII,
Past -89 Comanche, 98 Grand Cherokee (2WD), 2000 Cherokee, 05 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7
Had to replace the brakes - they opened more gas stations in town
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortissimowah View Post
I called the shop to see what kind of coolant they used, so I could add more of the same, and they said "green, anything green"... Is that really how you tell what the correct coolant is? Aren't most of them green?
I think you've figured this out now, the shop you took your Commander to are IDIOTS.

All the brands are dying their anti-freeze all different colors, do NOT trust the color of the anti-freeze as an indicator of what kind of anti-freeze it is.

I see jugs of what looks to be OAT anti-freeze dyed green now.

First thing to know, is that you should have time to deal with this. The problems that come from mixing anti-freezes or using the wrong one, happen a year or more down the road. It's NOT like your cooling system is going to gunk up by the end of the week.

Yes, HOAT is the recommended anti-freeze type for the Commander. You can buy it from the Dealer, make sure to state HOAT anti-freeze cause the dealer also sells OAT. Or you can buy Zerex G-05 which is the aftermarket equivalent of Chrysler's HOAT.

Mixing incompatible anti-freezes or NOT changing them when the anti-corrosion package depletes is what causes damage. OAT won't protect certain metals or older designed water pumps in older cars, so using OAT in an older car could cause corrosion/erosion damage. GM's version of OAT, DexCool, uses a chemical that is particularly incompatible with other anti-freezes and will damage certain plastics and rubbers used in older cars.

The original Green IAT anti-freeze and HOAT won't damage vehicles, provided its changed out when needed and the IAT you need to use distilled/deionized water to mix with it.

So, for the Commander:
Remember the big thing is NOT to mix incompatible anti-freezes, the Commander is modern enough it does NOT have old metals/plastics that are incompatible with the chemicals in new anti-freezes.

As long as you fully drained and flushed out all the old anti-freeze, you could use any anti-freeze you wanted, as long as you don't mix it with an incompatible type. It would be very unlikely you would run into problems. BUT, clearly the safest and best thing to do is to use the anti-freeze recommended by Chrysler.

If you use the original Green IAT anti-feeze (don't go by the color make sure its states what type is on the jug) you should mix it with distiled/deoinized water, near the end of the anti-freeze's life it can react with the minerals in tap water.

You could mix the original Green IAT anti-freeze in with HOAT, HOAT and IAT are compatible and mix just fine. That is considering the water mixed with the existing HOAT is distilled/deionized. And then you need to change the anti-freeze at the much shorter IAT interval, otherwise the anti-corrosion package in the IAT could cause gunking or reactions in the cooling system. Again, just using the HOAT like recommended is wiser.

Right now 3/4 of the aftermarket anti-freeze market is NOT identify what type of anti-freeze they are selling in their jug. They have even gone so far as to stop listing the ingredients on the jug so people can't identify the type of anti-freeze by the ingredients. (They get away with this by registering the ingredients as a trade secret). Most of the stuff they are hocking, vaguely eluding to it being an "Universal" anti-freeze is actually DexCool which is the least Universal of all the anti-freezes.

Prestone has been sued in court and lost, the court finding their claim their anti-freeze met all manufacturer specification is false and deceptive. Yet they still "elude" to it on their jugs of anti-freeze.

Thing is, the OAT's and Dexcool have been improved over the years and reformulated several times, so they don't react or gunk up right away like they used to. This is the only way these companies are getting away with this. By the time your "Universal" Prestone product gunks up your cooling system because you mixed with an incompatible anti-freeze, it will be so long after you bought the product they have plausible deniability.

Hate to say it, but the best thing you can do for your Commander, within the next year, is too drain all the coolant, thoroughly flush it several times to get the all the old coolant out, and then fill it with Zerex G-05 mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Use the air bleed plug hole to fill it to avoid the air bubbles problems again that the shop caused by improperly filling it.


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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 01:26 PM
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Just thought I would let you guys know I was having an issue with my jeep over heating when idling for a long time with my AC on, well I thought it was a thermostat or the fan clutch but I checked my radiator fan and it would never turn on so I replaced it and problem solved, I had to disconnect the top radiator hose to pull it up and also disconnect the top cross bar that is on top of the radiator to give it some wiggle room and I was finally able to remove it. Another of the symptoms was that my ac would not feel that cold until I was running and now it feels way better so just letting everyone know in case you are having issues with the ac not cooling as well or your jeep overheating. If you can't really tell if the radiator fan is on just shine a flash light over it and you can see it if it is moving.

06 Jeep Commander 4.7 QT II wih RC lift, Superchips 3872 and 245/75R17 Thunderer MT Tires

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