New Motor - run synthetic? - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Question New Motor - run synthetic?

The dealer is putting in a new/rebuilt motor as mine broke. Not sure what broke but it was bad enough that it is getting replaced not fixed.

Should I run synthetic in the new motor? I am not well versed in the synthetic vs. conventional oil and would appreciate input from anyone who has dealt with this.

06 Sport-4.7L with QT2

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 06:39 PM
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No, you should run dino oil until your motor is broke in, I think someone recommended the 9,000 mile oil change in anther thread.





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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Crap! I didn't think to do a search before posting!

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 08:35 PM
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Hi jcoulter,

Your question has many answers. You will have to draw your own conclusions.

For example, personal experience, My 2002 z-28 came from the factory w/Mobil One and states on fill cap this is factory fill.
My 2006 Z-06 also is factory filled Mobil One.
My 2007 SRT-8 is factory filled 0w 40 Mobil One.

So, at least two domestic manufacturers agree that engines will successfully break in w/ synthetics.

I have a list at my hangar of over 15 import manufacturers that are factory filling their high end performance vehicles as well with Mobil One, so.....................

I know that when Mobil One was introduced in 1971 [yeah, I'm old] they said NOT to use their product untill the engine had been broken in using mineral [dino] oils.

Either the engine components and manufacturing process has changed or the synthetic oil blend has changed but evidently this is not the problem it used to be.


What I can tell you is each of my cars used 1 qt for the first 1k miles and have never used a measurable amount between changes since.

Thats a good indicator of a successful break-in.

Personally, I've used Mobil One in all the rest of my cars and trucks at the first oil change. For me thats 3k miles.

No problems.

So with that,you will have to draw you're own conclusions.

My opinion, go ahead and use what you like as soon as you want. I no longer can see how a good quality synthetic can have an adverse affect on break in.


Rob


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-18-2008, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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I decided to go with Mobile 1. I accidentally bought Extended Performance so I could go 1 year or 15,000 miles but I'm not going to push it near that far.

This was the first oil change for the new motor. I changed it at 1100 miles. It looked pretty good. I didn't see any chunks of metal.

My wife about flipped when she saw the reciept. $40 for oil and $10 for the Mobil 1 filter but I personally feel that it is worth it.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-18-2008, 12:14 PM
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I run full synthetic in all my cars. I had an 07' impreza (nonturbo) and was instructed by the dealership to ONLY fill it with synthetic. As a general rule of thumb all dealerships (and quick oil change services) rec. synthetic (even if you're not buying from them). with newer engines (post 2002 or so). Although I understand the need for dino oil for BRAND NEW engines that haven't been driven off the lot, and more so in higher performance applications. Just be gentle on break in


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-18-2008, 02:33 PM
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I've not bought too many brand new cars (maybe 3) but I dont think the old "breakin period" applys much anymore. Machining tolerances and manufacturing techniques have come very very far.

When New, I do a 1000 mile change with dead dino juice, then at 3000 miles I change over to Synthetic and change at 5000 miles if I am doing normal around town, but 7500 if long trips (vacation). I prefer Royal Purple, but rarely find it on sale, so I usually go with Mobil 1. With gas prices what they are, and the new motorcycle as a primary trans, I may switch to RP as I will probably only put 7500-10K a year, and will only change it 1X a year. But it is all theoretical right now. RP really is a much better oil, I use it exculsively inmy 442. For my motorcycles, it is Golden Spectro, a great semisynthetic, with lots of zinc. I know guys who use the Diesel Rig oils too. Everybody has a favorite and a reason..... Thats what this is all about right!

If you must change your oil every 3K, synthetic is very expensive. But if you have the $$ go for it. The main benifit of synthetics is you get pretty much 100% lube benifit from start/cold, where normal oil has to get warmed up before all the lube and flow and friction modifiers benefits. Standard oils have come a long way. I do miss the days of .99/quart oil, and the K-Mart/Wall Mart specials when they sold AC Delco's for $1. Used to buy 10 at a time. Ah, the good old days, $10 do it yourself oil change........

I prefer Wix filters, as is the Napa Gold, or ACDelco and in a pinch will go for the Pure 1 Purolator as a last resort. The Mobil 1 is good, has a synthetic filter media like the Pure1. Just stay away from Champions, Frams, STPs, they have a cheap cardboard construction interior and check valve. One reason I steer away from the Pure1 filter even though it has great filtration capability, is the thiness of the mounting plate and lack of thread area makes me worry about overtightening and scoring the filter mounting threads.

Also, I use the plus size filter, it is 2X as long as the standard, so you get about 1/2 more quart capacity and double the filtration area. Wix actually sells one that is 3X as long as the stock, but I forget the numbers. It is in one of the older threads I think, from 2006. It is HUGE, and you will have to move your power steering hoses. Kind of overkill, but.........

So, youre asking "How do I find the longer filter?" Basically the FRAM PH8 & PH16 are the same for thread and gasket, but one (the 8) is 2X as long. So, because the FRAM is everywhere, I look up the PH8A and cross reference it for whatever brand I am buying that day. If youre a worry wart, go and get the PH16 (what the 4.7 takes) and PH8 and compare them, you will see that they have identical threads and gasket dimensions. Then get your cross referenced filter, and compare. You will find that the mounting plate often varies in thickness, as do the number of threads varies, and the number and size of holes for the oil to pass through. You will also notice some have silicone check and antidrain valves, and a spring loaded anti drain/check valve inside the filter area. It is amazing how different filters can be. You dont have to spend an arm and a leg for a good filter.

I've always tried to use a filter with an anti drain and check valve, and fill the filter with oil and let it sit for 5 minutes before screwing it on. Remember that the oil usually goes through the filter to get to the engine, so unless you do this, the couple seconds it takes to fill the filter and then move up and out can lead to unnecessary wear.

OK, sorry I wrote a book, but hey I drank about 8 cups of chai, just got back from an IFTAR dinner (breaking the fasting period for Ramadan) without getting poisoned (happened to me last week... we think innocent food prep/poisoning, but "who" got sick is suspect.....), Gotta love this place................

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[/B]

Last edited by Bulldog9; 09-18-2008 at 02:42 PM.
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