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Changing Brake pads?

95K views 79 replies 29 participants last post by  XKJeep06 
#1 ·
Has anyone taken on the challenge of changing thier own brake pads? If so any step by step instructions/pics out there.

Thanks in advance
 
#36 ·
I'm sorry if thats how it sounds.
I think, maybe cause my responses are so slow, we found ourselves answering the same question.
But, I really do see a rather talented group here, so I am guilty of hyper detailing my answers at times.
...........Rob
 
#39 ·
I find Robby informative and glad we can share thoughts openly and act civil (rarer and rarer on FORUMS when people realize the other guy can't clock you thru the screen) :stickpoke:

Maybe there is a sense of one-upmanship when men share ideas, but sometimes it leads to a collective good when its kept respectful.............and I find Robby plenty of that.
 
#62 ·
I'm upgrading to Hawk LTS brake pads and Power Slot rotors for the rear, from Tire Rack, $250. A slotted rotor in the rear position is probably overkill, but I figure they don't cost a whole lot more than OE and will last the life of the truck. I do some towing, as well, so will be great for that.

Front $ would be similar.
 
#47 ·
Officespace, you might find that your local parts store, like Advance Auto etc, will rent or let you borrow a puller if they have one.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Yes I know the last post was from March.

Well I just went through the service manual, http://www.scribd.com/doc/20027695/Jeep-WK-Grand-Cherokee-Section-05-Brakes.

I noticed the upper portion of the manual states to torque the caliper sliding pins to 53ft. lbs. instead of 32ft. lbs. like state in the previous post in this thread.

53 ft. lbs. seems very high just for the sliding pins. Why are there two different numbers?
 
#49 ·
The only thing I can think of is the service manuals were from to different years. Either that or because one was for the XK and one was for the WK but that shouldnt make a difference. Id personally dont torque the caliper sliding pins. I have done brakes so many time that I know about how tight they need to be by hand. Id say definately go with 32 ft. lbs. as 53 ft. lbs sounds to high.
 
#55 ·
But it also says on page 7/420 in the torque chart that the front caliper slide pins are 18 ft. lbs.
 
#54 · (Edited)
hmmmm

If you look at page 7/420 (torque chart) it says the Front Caliper Slide Pins should be torqued to 18 ft. lbs (25 n.m) but on page 16/420 step 5 says tighten the front caliper slide pins to 53 ft. lbs (72 n.m). Also on page 24/420 step 3 says tighten the front caliper slide pins to 53 ft. lbs (72 n.m). How does that make sense??? That service manual is all messed up. I wouldnt trust any of that info. You need to get your hands on a different service manual.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/20027695/Jeep-WK-Grand-Cherokee-Section-05-Brakes
 
#57 ·
What romeo posted on page 2 of this thread is from an offical service manual for the Jeep Commander. It has different info then what you posted so it cant be a copy of what you have.
 
#59 ·
I just did my front pads yesterday. The slide pin torque has to be 18ft lbs. It didn't take much to break them loose. I put Hawk ceramics, with Napa Ultra Premium rotors. Pretty happy so far. The pads are getting better as the bed in. And I have had very good luck with napa rotors in the past. they rotors where a pretty good price, @$60 each, for a prettty good quality rotor.
 
#60 ·
Napa FTW! I think they have the best quality brakes/rotors.


In the end, you really dont need a torque spec for the slide pins. Just use a 3/8 ratchet and tighten them down until they are snug. I have replaced the brakes on over 100 cars in the past 5 years with zero problems doing it that way.
 
#61 ·
Did my very first brake job this weekend. Mind you, no experience whatsoever..

Took me 35 minutes. VERY VERY simple.. Thanks for all the guides.

58K miles, and the pads still had 50% life on them. VERY impressed, because I drive 2 hours (1 hr each way) in heavy commuting traffic with lots of stop and go.. I changed them anyway, used Duralast Gold pads from Auto Zone.. $45 or so.
 
#64 ·
Would anyone be interested in purchasing braided stainless lines for their Commanders? I've been working w/a tubing company on a couple different projects and can have several sets produced to offer Commander enthusiasts if there is enough interest. Chime in if yes. I would imagine a set would be priced not much more than $100.
 
#65 ·
Changed front rotors this weekend. Took about 90 minutes as it had been about 15 years
since I'd done any serious wrench work. Fixed the vibration that reappeared on resurfaced
rotors after on about 10k miles. Simple job and now the stopping is smoooooth as silk.

Regards

Kiwi
 
#66 ·
My 06 XK seems to be ready for some new pads. For a few months, I did realize a slight vibration going on... but now, there's a faint squeak popping up when the brakes are applied. I take it ...times up.

My first debate is either going OEM or aftermarket. I'm considering getting some Wagner ThermoQueit Ceramics for both front/rear. Total cost will be about $130 for the whole set. Looked over some online OEM/Jeep sites, and the pads alone are likely to total at $250 though :(.

Along with that, I'll have to also consider whether turning my current rotors, or buying a whole set of new ones. Last, will be bleeding the brake lines.

I had a few questions though...:

1. What brand of brake pads did you replace yours with?
2. Did you replace or turn your current rotors?
3. Mileage before you replaced your pads
4. Are the rotors easily accessible once you remove the brake caliper assembly (is it pressed and/or screwed in?) ?

Please assist when you can....
 
#70 · (Edited)
On my first set of cheap pads (local parts store) I replaced the rotors as well (about $46 each). @ 70K miles. I was working in a heated storage center garage in winter (out of view of the security cameras). Use to save the old rotors and get them turned for the next set of pads.

A few weeks ago I replaced the same rotors along with some Duralast Gold Cmax Ceramic pads (about $59 a set). @ 107K miles. Stops much more smoothly and quietly (had about an 1/8 of an inch of pad remaining on one pad). Don't know why the first pads lasted so long and the second set wore out so fast - but was surprised that the rear pads wore out quickly during the first 40K.

Did the rear pads @ 40 & 85K miles. Still lots of pad remaining @107K, but I really need rear rotors.

The front rotors came off easily the first time after removing the thin rubber retaining ring on hub (cut it off and throw it away - it holds the rotors on the hub while it's moving down the assembly line).

The second time the rotors were frozen on with rust, had to tap them all around from the outside, and then knock them off from the inside (the finesse move that finally popped them off) with a heavy hammer. Do yourself a favor and buy some CRC brake caliper grease ($11). Clean the hub surfaces that have rust with a wire brush and completely coat with grease along with the hub bolts and the surface rails that the pad mounting ends slide on (apparently this helps prevent uneven pad wear) - forgot to put some on the caliper pins. Learned this from Larry who was working the next rental service bay over from me. Also put some CRC disk brake quiet on the back of the pads (red stuff in a squeeze bottle) or try some spray on stuff (blue). You probably already know this, but a C-Clamp is great for pushing the caliper pistons back in (using the old pad to protect the piston - there are two on each front caliper) - you can also buy a piston compressor tool for about $8 but it looks like the handle will be harder to turn than the C-clamp. I probably shouldn't have but I used an air wrench to remove the caliper mouting bolts (not the pins) (came off in about 1/10 of a second, just didn't feel like wrenching on it with my back). After the caliper fell off the inside of the wheel well a few times while I was pounding the the rotors I decided to use some electrical wire to tie them to the springs so they wouldn't fall and pull on the brake line.

Next time I might try some slotted and drilled rotors . . . and some better gripping (and faster wearing) pads. I would do this on the rear pads, but I can't put on the better gripping pads on the rear without doing the front pads too - I think it might throw off the braking characteristics of the Jeep.... also heard that slotted/drilled rotors are more noisy and have less friction surface (hence the better gripping pads needed?).

Why are you bleeding the brake lines? I've never had to bleed my brake lines on any of my vehicles....sounds like an unecessary mess that could inadvertently lead to air in the brake line if you don't top off the brake fluid while doing it. The fluid darkens naturally and doesn't mean it necessarily needs to be replaced (or so I've read).


My 06 XK seems to be ready for some new pads. For a few months, I did realize a slight vibration going on... but now, there's a faint squeak popping up when the brakes are applied. I take it ...times up.

My first debate is either going OEM or aftermarket. I'm considering getting some Wagner ThermoQueit Ceramics for both front/rear. Total cost will be about $130 for the whole set. Looked over some online OEM/Jeep sites, and the pads alone are likely to total at $250 though :(.

Along with that, I'll have to also consider whether turning my current rotors, or buying a whole set of new ones. Last, will be bleeding the brake lines.

I had a few questions though...:

1. What brand of brake pads did you replace yours with?
2. Did you replace or turn your current rotors?
3. Mileage before you replaced your pads
4. Are the rotors easily accessible once you remove the brake caliper assembly (is it pressed and/or screwed in?) ?

Please assist when you can....
 
#68 ·
i went to jiffy lube the other day for some fluids getting topped off and they said my brake fluid was low but they don't top it off because its an indicator of needing new brake pads. is this strictly "you need new brake pads" or could it be a wear/warp on the rotors? My XK has about 56k on it. I bought it used about 4 months ago and I have no idea what the person previous had done to it. any advice is more than welcome....sorry for a noob question
 
#69 ·
Generally when brake fluid level is low it indicates the brake pads are worn.
As the pads wear, the fluid that was in the master cylinder is now down at the calipers because the pistons are extended out.
The more the pads wear, the further out the pistons stay and the fluid level continues to drop.
Many members have found the original pads have held up for 50k and beyond.
So, you may still be running the original pads and they should be inspected for remaining service life.
Odds are, you are getting close to replacement.

Good luck,
Rob
 
#71 ·
officespace,
When brake fluid turns black it is a indicator of moisture buildup.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture.....so dry in fact it can pull it through seals.
Long ago, brake hydralic components were made of cast iron and the components would tolerate the moisture laden fluid without much corrosion.
Not so with these new systems that are primarily aluminium.....that damp fluid will set off corrosion in the master and aluminum calipers.

As a result, we are starting to see brake fluid flushing becomming a suggested maintenance, usually by time, with the suggestion being every two to three years.
At very least, whenever brake service/replacement is called for.

Rob
 
#72 · (Edited)
Rob,

Thanks for the info, I've always wanted to change the brake fluid....but I see the manual indicates I should also replace the system seals, cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU when the fluid is flushed. The fluid is a light brown right now as viewed through the plastic reservoir. Haven't checked it for contamination - but it's DOT 3 Mopar.

Right now I'm more worried about how to extract a broken exhaust manifold bolt :) ...

Jim

From the 2006 XK manual (their highlighting - not mine):

Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in proportion to normal lining wear.

Also note that brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is normal and should not be mistaken for contamination.
a. If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evidence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cylinder, and HCU.

b. If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a sample to examine. System will have to be flushed if fluid is separated
into layers, or contains a substance other than brake fluid. The system seals, cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.

 
#73 ·
I,m aware of the rubber part replacement suggestion.
Never have though, unless someone wanted to go to DOT5 silicone.
Motorcycles, cars used for autocross, well for the most part about every vehicle involved in any kind of extreme service have fluid flushing performed every other year.
As the moisture content increases, the fluid boil point decreases.
I don't think our usage would actually take brake fluid to those extremes, I just have added fluid flushing to my normal maintenence schedule based on what I've seen over the last 10 years or so.
I think it might be driven by my seeing that reservor turning black inside.
On a side note, those operators that are in low humidity areas don't see this color change very often.
Those of us in the high humidity rust belt see it a lot. (along with all the other effects of snow/salt etc......sigh.)

Rob
 
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