I was wondering if anyone has had to replace their heater hoses. The location of the hose on the engine seems to be almost impossible without removing the intake manifold. Is there a different way to approach this problem?
@Bunkie Are you replacing because they started leaking down at the heater core?
If so, there is a way around replacing the whole hose. There's a post on here somewhere by a guy named heffercow where he left the hose in and replaced the the stock heater core connection with a standard t fitting and some hose clamps. I came across it the other day cause mine has been randomly dripping.
I did this fix last summer, no leaks since. I used a plastic T fitting (Gates brand I think) from O'Reilly's. There was plenty of extra hose already there to cut out the old fitting, add some hose clamps and put in the new fitting. Everything was 3/4" if I remember correctly, but don't quote me on that. The fitting was only a few dollars plus a jug of coolant. Was an easy repair.
Some have recommended brass fittings for added durability, but the plastic one seemed durable enough to me.
Make sure you use the correct coolant, not that universal crap!
This fix saved me a fair bit of time and money, as those hoses are rather expensive and difficult to replace. As mentioned above, I actually got this idea from heffercow. Unfortunately there won't be any more good ideas from him because a certain mod banned him for basically no reason at all.
Ive heard of this fix, have the slow drip, and need to find the size so i can cut and reinstall in one shot. If someone runs across that thread, please link it. !
I tried the plastic T fitting. The only problem was it didn't have large enough barbs on the on the tubes so I couldn't get the clamp tight enough. I was afraid I would crush the fitting. I am not a big fan of worm gear hose clamps anyway. It blew off while in the driveway. So I ordered a replacement hose. Only to find how difficult it is to replace.
I am thinking about cutting the hose from the engine and putting a straight brass barbed hose connector with Gates Power Grip SB Clamps between the old hose coming out of the engine and cutting the new hose to attach to the other end of the straight connector.
I tried the plastic T fitting. The only problem was it didn't have large enough barbs on the on the tubes so I couldn't get the clamp tight enough. I was afraid I would crush the fitting. I am not a big fan of worm gear hose clamps anyway. It blew off while in the driveway. So I ordered a replacement hose. Only to find how difficult it is to replace.
I am thinking about cutting the hose from the engine and putting a straight brass barbed hose connector with Gates Power Grip SB Clamps between the old hose coming out of the engine and cutting the new hose to attach to the other end of the straight connector.
The spring clamps which I believe is what you are talking about are much better than worm screw clamps. You'll have to pull the intake to get at those fittings so your idea sounds like a good one.
The aftermarket gates and continental brand hoses and tee fitting replacements are much better than the OEM hose and tee assembly as the Tee fitting and swages are metal and won't deteriorate with heat and time.
Finally was able to get back to repairing the Heater hose. Decided to try the T fitting again. This time I got a brass T fitting. Also got a better quality of hose clamp. I was able to get the clamp really tight this time. I attached pics of the collapsed plastic fitting.
So I have to ask - how did you guys go about doing this? I’ve bought a 3/4” brass t junction and have hose clamps, but it is a nightmare to get at.
Did you remove from the heater core and from below, then cut the stock t junction out (cut the hose ends) and clamp the open ends around the barb?
Thats my plan - just would like to hear how y'all approached it in case there is something easier I’m not thinking of.
So I have to ask - how did you guys go about doing this? I’ve bought a 3/4” brass t junction and have hose clamps, but it is a nightmare to get at.
Did you remove from the heater core and from below, then cut the stock t junction out (cut the hose ends) and clamp the open ends around the barb?
Thats my plan - just would like to hear how y'all approached it in case there is something easier I’m not thinking of.
I Put a new blade in my razor and cut right next to the factory TEE. Be careful not to cut anything else as it was very tight and a pain. The only thing easy is that it’s easier than replacing the entire line. But there was nothing easy about just replacing the TEE either.
Appreciate the response. I was looking at it again last night and I think that’s going to be my strategy. Hard to get in the with the razor blade, but I have a small but very sharp pocket knife I’m going to try first.
And yes - good point that at least it’s easier than trying to replace that whole line under the intake. I hope it doesn’t come to that.
Well it’s done. Pain to get to for sure but seems to work well enough. Thanks to all who posted the idea here.
I ended up using a sharp little pocket knife, cut the top off first, then the firewall side was easier to get to. Once that side was done you can pull the lower hose/old “T” off to the side to cut the lower off. Then I put it back together in the reverse order. Bled down the system (didn’t take a ton of coolant, less than half a gallon) and took it for a spin. Seems to be holding well and heat is working.
also - there is a small negative wire going through The area that seems to go to the ecu. I zip tied that and the big wiring harness up to the ac lines above this temporarily to keep them out of the way. Gives just a tiny bit of extra room.
Great work everyone! My question is, has anyone had to fix the connections that are under the wheel well by the passenger side? I found that's where my leak is coming from--not from the firewall. I can't figure out what any of those connectors are, but it's definitely coming from there. I attached pictures.
Are you sure that’s just not where it’s pooling? That’s where mine would pool and drip from. I believe the silver lines are for the rear a/c. The black ones (to the left in your pic) are for the rear heat.
Go look at your t-junction (The one I replaced in my earlier post). I wouldnt be surprised if you’ll find coolant weeping near the bottom part of the T, because that’s exactly what mine looked like.
Funny - my drivers valve cover gasket is leaking oil - I literally just bought new gaskets for it. That’s my next project.
Go look at your t-junction (The one I replaced in my earlier post). I wouldn't be surprised if you’ll find coolant weeping near the bottom part of the T, because that’s exactly what mine looked like.
Funny - my drivers valve cover gasket is leaking oil - I literally just bought new gaskets for it. That’s my next project.
Well I did just like everyone in here did. 3/4" brass T-Union. Only took maybe an hour. But wouldn't ya know it, now I have another problem. After about three minutes. my engine temp gauge goes all the way up, the radiator fan goes into hardcore mode, and then the engine eventually shuts off. What. The. Hell. When I changed the union, I maybe only lost 8 ounces MAX of fluid. Any ideas? I've about had it with this damn vehicle.
Update
Turns out I just needed to bleed the system for like half an hour. Not sure why it took that long, thought I'd done enough the first time. Everything seems to be working fine now.
@XKJeepFan Please make an introductory post in the New Member Section. Also, go to your account settings and create a signature with your XK's info (year, model trim, engine, 4WD system,etc.). Thanks.
Well have you tried? If not cut the existing custom hose make up off and look at what you have and replace each piece individually as the factory part is very pricey in essence you are rebuilding it yourself so if it ever has a problem again you can just change the hose. You will see you can get the parts from a local box store. Well did it work?.?
My hoses still looked in good shape so I only replaced the T fittings with 3/4" brass T's and used stainless clamps. If I would have needed / wanted to replace the hoses, I would have just purchased a length of hose from any auto parts store and saved some bucks! My hoses looked good and I did not want to remove my wheel well liners again unless it was absolutely necessary. ( I have had the front liners off several times already so running low on plastic rivets that each time I tend to break several.)
My hoses still looked in good shape so I only replaced the T fittings with 3/4" brass T's and used stainless clamps. If I would have needed / wanted to replace the hoses, I would have just purchased a length of hose from any auto parts store and saved some bucks!
It's not an issue right now, but, I have bought a bunch of cooling system components, that I will have replaced all at once, just figuring that it's probably time.
I like to try & stay in front of this stuff, before it becomes an issue.
I have a new Transmission Cooler, Water pump, Thermostat, Fan Ctutch, new Fan & Fan resistor & now this hose kit.
I'll buy the brass T's and stainless steel hose clamps and have a reputable shop put it all in for me.
I don't mind spending the money, I just want it done right and I've said here many times before, I'm not a mechanic.
I'm not an imbecile either, but, I know my limitations.
If it was just a matter of swapping the old with the new, not a big deal, but when you start having to worry about bleeding and/or re-pressurizing the cooling system, that's a little out of my wheel-house.
Im with @fshnbob, those fancy silicon hoses are molded where the factory plastic Ts would be. I think those are fine and wouldnt need to be cut up at all !!
Im with @fshnbob, those fancy silicon hoses are molded where the factory plastic Ts would be. I think those are fine and wouldnt need to be cut up at all !!
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