Brake advice needed...stumped - Page 2 - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Regular Service / Maintenance This section contains discussion about regular service and maintenance (upkeep) of your Jeep Commander

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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I think you guys are onto something, I think it is some system in the vehicle that is applying rear brakes as I drive. Just went for a drive with the ESP off. During the drive I did my best to use the brakes as little as possible. As I was driving and making slow turns I could feel the handling and ride changing "like the brakes were on". When I got home from a 5 mile ride the rears were over 200 degrees on both sides and the fronts were around 150 and even side to side.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 05:24 PM
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I shot these today.Here's my front rotor then the hat portion. And then the rear rotor and hat second. So you can see your temps are fine.Mine do get over 300 degrees easily while driving.It was 307 when I took the first reading.
Rotors are cooler than the hat portion.
I'm only showing you this because you asked.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks for those readings. So it appears normal for the rears to be hotter than the fronts.....and also my temps are not excessively high at all. So now I am stuck with finding the root cause of the feeling of power loss as I drive. I think my next step will be to drive the car until the "power loss" and weird handling feeling occurs then immediately jack the car up and spin the wheels. My guess is that I will feel no more drag than normal as I believe now that it is possible that something in the car is applying the brakes while I am driving.

I have owned this Jeep for 6 years and this problem is totally new and very evident when it happens. Maybe its just a coincidence but it started immediately after the brake job.

Thanks again for the temp readings.

Mark
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerogt01 View Post
Make sure to do full off - Hold the switch while in park until the DTC reads ESP OFF or something of the like.

The FDCM should be under the access panel of the driver's side passenger seat. Silver metal box, not the black plastic one.

In the somewhat remote chance either of those things actually fix it you'll need a scanner that reads ABS and 4WD codes. I use a Bluedriver. I don't love it, but it can hardly be beat for the price.
Also for clarification, you should only have to hit the ESP (Electronic Stability Control) button once, to disengage it; When ESP is off, the indicator light will be on; See the pic below with the ESP light circled in blue;

When ESP is on, or engaged, that indicator light goes out.



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Last edited by Big Blue; 08-27-2019 at 08:55 PM.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 12:06 AM
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Blue, that's not fully off. That still has some stabiliy protections.

For full off, hold the button in for 5 seconds (that's what I counted) until you see the DTC message below. That's full off. You have to do it in park.

One of the things I learned here way back in the day. Probably from HueyPilot.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerogt01 View Post
Blue, that's not fully off. That still has some stabiliy protections.

For full off, hold the button in for 5 seconds (that's what I counted) until you see the DTC message below. That's full off. You have to do it in park.

One of the things I learned here way back in the day. Probably from HueyPilot.
Well I'm going to have to try that again then, I just pushed the button while I was driving and the ESP off light came on in the dash. So I will do the "hold for 5 seconds in park" and give that a try

Appreciate the help with this guys

Mark
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerogt01 View Post
Blue, that's not fully off. That still has some stabiliy protections.

For full off, hold the button in for 5 seconds (that's what I counted) until you see the DTC message below. That's full off. You have to do it in park.

One of the things I learned here way back in the day. Probably from HueyPilot.
I might be wrong, but as far as I know, the ESP light coming on and the ESP OFF message in the EVIC are synonymous - meaning once you press the ESP off button, you can't have one without the other;

That being said, I don't think the ESP OFF message in the EVIC stays on the entire time the ESP is disengaged, I believe that's just an initial informational alert that eventually goes out, and the ESP Light will remain on, until the ESP is engaged again.

I may be wrong, but, that's how I understand it. It's not something I do everyday and I'm out of town, so, I can't go out to my XK to check, I'm just going off of memory.

If I'm wrong, well, it wouldn't be the first time.....LOL.


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Last edited by Big Blue; 08-28-2019 at 11:37 PM.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 10:56 AM
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Another thing to throw in here....you have the QT-I 4wd system which automatically applies independent wheel braking for traction control (as opposed to the ELSDs in the QD-II)....I think this is the culprit.
I don't think the FDCM will have anything to do with this, that's the transfer-case brain, but i'm not 100% on anything else it might control.

Driving with the traction control off would def. help eliminate other possibles. Someone mentioned earlier that you might have accidentally messed with a wheel speed sensor, that could trigger the "Brake Traction Control System" and be what you're experiencing. I don't know if you have a code reader, but you might have some ABS codes that aren't enough to trigger a DTS light, or a code from the key-dance...

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Last edited by Wombler; 08-28-2019 at 11:04 AM. Reason: changed ABS sensor to wheel speed sensor
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Update......By the way, you guys are awesome, I really appreciate the help. This thing is kicking my backside.

I disabled the ESP by holding the button in until I got the chime and the EPS OFF light in the dash. Went for a drive and honestly thought The problem was gone but it was hard to tell because I think that over a certain speed (40mph) it turns back on. I'm not sure that is true but I read that somewhere. So I was unsure about the result but it felt promising.

Next I came home and decided to unplug the FDCM. After unplugging the FDCM I went for a 20 mile drive and the thing drove like a champ, I experienced none of the symptoms that I was seeing and feeling before unplugging the module. This is the first time in 4 days that I have been able to drive the Jeep without experiencing the phenomenon so I'm pretty sure that unplugging fixed the problem.

Honestly I thought it was a brake issue since that is the service that I just performed. As a side note while I was doing the brakes I also replaced a previously broken front wheel stud and I am wondering if I damaged the wheel sensor pounding the old broken stud out of the hub? I did that at the same time I did the brake job.

At this point I think I'm going to just take it to my local mechanic that I use and have him diagnose the issue further. He said that he has the equipment to check wheel sensors and 4wd system codes etc. I am ok taking it to him now that I (with your help) have been able to I.D. the problem this far.

My plan is to give this vehicle to my youngest daughter to drive so I want all the safety stuff working properly. Thanks once again guys.

And as an aside........I checked the brake temps for the heck of it when I came home from the most recent drive where I had no issues and the temps. were basically the same as when I was having the issue, so the brakes must have just been getting slightly applied enough to affect handling, slow speed cornering and also robbing power going up hills.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 10:39 PM
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Thanks for the update, Mark! Glad we could help.

I think you're right about full ESP off re-engaging above 35 mph. I had forgotten about that.

I had the similar "slowdown" issue for several months before I finally tracked it down to a bad T-switch. For a while I just drove with the FDCM unplugged. I doubt this is your issue, but it's how I recognized the feeling.
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