Serv 4wd, Grind, pop, bucking, - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Regular Service / Maintenance This section contains discussion about regular service and maintenance (upkeep) of your Jeep Commander

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Serv 4wd, Grind, pop, bucking,

SO here's the symptoms during acceleration there is an occasional shudder, then at any deceleration(coasting), or braking there is grinding/grabbing, a pop, and then the Jeep feels like it is lurching/bucking especially 30mph to stop.



History: 2008 XK 5.7 QD2 160k

New parts in the last year.
June 2018 OME HD springs (4), Bilstein 5100 (4), Rocky Road hd upper control arms, Moog lower control arms, Moog strut mount/spring bushing, Goodyear Adventure 255/65r17.
July 2018 Front driveshaft
Oct 2018 New brakes, rotors turned, Driver Moog front wheel bearing(hub assembly), Water pump, thermostat, and starter
Jan 2019 Front brake calipers

May 2019 Front differential bushing all 3.


July 2019 4 days of wheeling at Disney OK SERVICE 4WD light came on, went off next time we started engine. Came on again on way home while pulling our camper. Our Jeep caught fire on the way home, power steering pump blew and hot manifold lit it up, got fire out, patched up and limped to next town. Put in new pump and away we went.


July 2019 Power steering pump, New gear oil(Royal purple) front diff, rear diff, transfer case(Mopar NV245) noticed excessive grease/oil PINION Seal FRONT Diff Leaking

Service 4WD light on and 4low will not activate

Oct 2019 The shudder, grabbing, started the driver front caliper was bad, replaced it. Last night the problems at the beginning of the post escalated and towed Jeep home.


With the Jeep now on the trailer I was thinking of taking it to the dealer and have them read the Service 4wd code to give me specifics on that. I do not trust them to fix anything, It cost me $260(labor) for them to put on a factory 7 pin tow harness that I provided since they were back ordered and couldn't get one for weeks. AND they wired it wrong, took me 2 hours on the day we were leaving on our trip to trace down what they did wrong and fix it. So hopefully they can at least read a code properly.

With the pinion seal leaking, and can feel it in the steering wheel and floor board I am thinking along the lines of CV or the whole diff needs rebuilt? but since I just did that brake caliper makes me wonder about other/more brake issues, or bad new caliper, brakes can do funny things and make you chase rabbit trails.


1) Go to dealer first about the code??, or Is there a way to check the bearing in the front diff to see if its bad without opening it up? Would a bearing throw a Serv 4wd light?

2) Can I remove the brake caliper, cap the line, and drive to eliminate that?

Other know issues driver exhaust manifold broken stud, bad cat bank 2 (efficiency below threshold) and bank 2 O2 sensor.
Sorry for the really long post but I would rather give too much info than, my lights on whats wrong kinda post.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 07:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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I bought a $120 Altura code reader that does abs as well as engine codes and it pin pointed which abs wheel speed sensor was causing my 4wd service light. Might be a good place to start. You can use it to run tests as well but I can't vouch for how well they work.

I don't trust the dealer either. I have great respect for mechanics, but only the ones I know personally and I don't know anything at our dealer. So, I figure it's cheaper to buy my own diagnostic equipment and tools and do it myself. And as you found out, even when you have them do it to save time that doesn't always work out either.


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06 Commander Limited Hemi 5.7 QDII on Amsoil. Trail Dash 2, 2" RC lift, 1.25" whl spacers, 265/70R17 Pirelli Scorpion AT+, 3rd brake light flasher, LED high beams
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 11:07 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Just went through a similar fiasco. Left front sounded and felt like it was going to self destruct on decel coming to a stop. Dealer claimed I needed a new $2000 xfer case. Front diff and xfer case were fine. I ended up replacing left cv and front drive shaft myself and problem went away. Pretty sure my left cv was bad.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-31-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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Dealer said whole front differential is shot. Parts are no longer available through Chrysler, if they could locate them then it's approximately $3500. So I'm currently looking for a new front diff, 3.73 w/elsd.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEMICOMMANDERStl View Post
Dealer said whole front differential is shot. Parts are no longer available through Chrysler, if they could locate them then it's approximately $3500. So I'm currently looking for a new front diff, 3.73 w/elsd.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEMICOMMANDERStl View Post
Dealer said whole front differential is shot. Parts are no longer available through Chrysler, if they could locate them then it's approximately $3500. So I'm currently looking for a new front diff, 3.73 w/elsd.

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Might try to get a second opinion before you accept the verdict that you need a whole front end.


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 03:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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did the dealer say what had failed in the diff? bearings or missing gear teeth? did they show you fluid that had metal in it?


these guys will fix you up https://www.nationaldifferential.com/
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenjays View Post
Might try to get a second opinion before you accept the verdict that you need a whole front end.


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I would second that. Another opinion would be prudent. Most differentials are rebuild-able, by the right shop. Dealerships often go for the highest margin in the quickest time. Maybe in this case?

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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IF the weather holds out I will be pulling the diff cover off tomorrow after church. I did drop the skid plate and opened the fill plug and stuck my finger in there, the fluid was about 1/2-3/4" under I could bend my finger in the hole and hit fluid so the level was close to correct maybe slightly low with the pinion seal leaking. It smelt burnt though even though I just changed it back in the spring.

They said the pinion seal was bad cause the leak(duh) and there was excessive play in the bearing by grabbing the pinion and wiggling it. They also said there was play in the drive shaft. The drive a shaft was replaced and cost a small fortune July of last year. SO I am hoping the bad bearings didn't ruin the new driveshaft. There wasn't excessive noise for an extended period of time or anything so I highly doubt that its bad already. I'll verify it before I buy another.

They made it sound like the entire carrier assemble as a whole was discontinued, but thought they could located "New, old stock" for all the internals to rebuild it. That's why the cost was so high for the labor to rebuild.
I found one at a local Salvage yard 101K miles for $715. I am really leaning towards just doing that and replacing the bushings while its out and then that'd be a job to be done in one day and be back on the road. They said they would throw in the NV245 transfer case with shift motor for $200, SO might as well get it as a spare since its available and seems to be a good price and low mileage.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 03:12 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEMICOMMANDERStl View Post
IF the weather holds out I will be pulling the diff cover off tomorrow after church. I did drop the skid plate and opened the fill plug and stuck my finger in there, the fluid was about 1/2-3/4" under I could bend my finger in the hole and hit fluid so the level was close to correct maybe slightly low with the pinion seal leaking. It smelt burnt though even though I just changed it back in the spring.

They said the pinion seal was bad cause the leak(duh) and there was excessive play in the bearing by grabbing the pinion and wiggling it. They also said there was play in the drive shaft. The drive a shaft was replaced and cost a small fortune July of last year. SO I am hoping the bad bearings didn't ruin the new driveshaft. There wasn't excessive noise for an extended period of time or anything so I highly doubt that its bad already. I'll verify it before I buy another.

They made it sound like the entire carrier assemble as a whole was discontinued, but thought they could located "New, old stock" for all the internals to rebuild it. That's why the cost was so high for the labor to rebuild.
I found one at a local Salvage yard 101K miles for $715. I am really leaning towards just doing that and replacing the bushings while its out and then that'd be a job to be done in one day and be back on the road. They said they would throw in the NV245 transfer case with shift motor for $200, SO might as well get it as a spare since its available and seems to be a good price and low mileage.
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