Replace or resurface rotors??? - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Replace or resurface rotors???

I notice my rotors are starting to warp a lot more now. I don't know if I should take the rotors off and have a shop resurface them for around $10 per rotor or should I just replace them?

I would probably resurface or replace only the front rotors since most of your braking power is at the front.

I am just afraid the rotors might warp again if they are resurfaced.

Any experience on this?

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob123 View Post
I notice my rotors are starting to warp a lot more now. I don't know if I should take the rotors off and have a shop resurface them for around $10 per rotor or should I just replace them?

I would probably resurface or replace only the front rotors since most of your braking power is at the front.

I am just afraid the rotors might warp again if they are resurfaced.

Any experience on this?
Gonna be a bunch of disagreement here but....
Believe it or not, these are rather meaty rotors.
As long as they only need a cleanup, make parellell cut (your machinist will measure) I believe cutting to be a viable repair.
It's not like your trying to cut out scoring from metal to metal contact so it will be a minimal cut.
I'd go for the resurface....Heck, I've purchassed new rotors that needed a parellell cut.

Rob


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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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How much should they take off (1 mm)? Will it depend on how bad they are warped?

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 03:22 PM
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If the rotors can be resurfaced, the magnitude of the warp will determine how much they'll need to take off. If the warping is extensive they will not be able to resurface them at all because of the required minimum thickness. I ran into that issue a few months ago. I'd say definitely resurface them, if you can. You cannot really consider whether or not they'll warp again because even a new rotor can warp with excessive braking and heat build-up - i.e. riding the brakes down a mountain in Colorado...(my mistake - haha).
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Airdog625 View Post
If the rotors can be resurfaced, the magnitude of the warp will determine how much they'll need to take off. If the warping is extensive they will not be able to resurface them at all because of the required minimum thickness. I ran into that issue a few months ago. I'd say definitely resurface them, if you can. You cannot really consider whether or not they'll warp again because even a new rotor can warp with excessive braking and heat build-up - i.e. riding the brakes down a mountain in Colorado...(my mistake - haha).
x2
Like I said, the machinist makes the determiniation.
The minimum thickness spec. is cast into the rotor body.

Rob


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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 03:36 PM
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Don't think that resurfacing your rotor, is by some means, taking the cheap way out. They are made at a thickness just so you can resurface them. There are some rotors too thin to resurface, but I believe ours have plenty of meat on them, and resurfacing them will not cause them to warp, driving conditions will. When you take them in, they'll mic them and let you know if you have enough metal left to resurface, get the warp out, and still be above specs.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 03:49 PM
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I generally advise against maching rotors, especially today's rotors because they are usually not much more thick than the minimum thickness spec that is stamped into them. Most manufacturers are more interested in saving weight (and increasing fuel economy) these days, so they are more likely to equip their vehicles with rotors that are not as thick nor heavy as the rotors from years ago.

But even if you decide to machine them, keep in mind that any material that is removed makes it that much more easy for the rotors to warp again.

Robby-- Have you ever measured a new rotor's thickness (from a Commander) and have you ever checked the min. thickness spec? I'm wondering if our rotors are actually thick enough to be cut once or twice.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 03:52 PM
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How much should they take off (1 mm)? Will it depend on how bad they are warped?
When I cut a rotor, I try to take off the absolute minimum amount of material. Most guys don't do that though... they're more concerned with getting the job done in one pass, so they're usually going to set the brake lathe pretty tight. The problem with doing it the way I do it is that if the tip of the cutting surface loses contact at any point on either side of the rotor, the rotor must be cut again to ensure a job well done.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 03:59 PM
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TR4,
No, I've never measured a new one.
But seriously, these are NOT lightweight rotors.
Next time you rotate tires you'll see what I mean.

Rob


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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
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TR4,
No, I've never measured a new one.
But seriously, these are NOT lightweight rotors.
Next time you rotate tires you'll see what I mean.

Rob
It's good to know that there are still some decent rotors out there. As you can see, I don't have a lot of wrenching time on the Commander as of yet.

Now my 4Runner is a totally different story. I've done a lot to it over the last 3 years and I've learned quite a bit about it. The rotors on my 4Runner are also very heavy and very thick, but I think that's only because my 4Runner is a Sport Edition, which has bigger brakes with 4-piston calipers. I figured the bigger rotors were just part of the performance brake package that comes on the Sport Edition 4Runner. Now I'm starting to wonder how many other SUVs also have big rotors. Maybe it's more common than I had first thought. I do know that most cars these days come with some pretty thin rotors that are basically throw-aways that really can't be cut.
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