How To Install Spidertrax Wheel Spacers - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Wheels / Tires This section contains discussion about wheels and tires for your Jeep Commander.

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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2009, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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How To Install Spidertrax Wheel Spacers

These are my 1.5" spidertrax being put on the 3.7L. I was going to have my local tire shop do them but they declined due to their liability policies. So after 2 hours and a lot of shaving fenders they are installed! I did both front and rear sets.

1) Set of spacers in box


2) Using the factory jack lift each tire one at a time. I started in the front. Remove all lug nuts and tire from brakes. Apply Loctite (provided by Spidertrax) to threads.

A little goes a long way, use sparingly.

3) Place spacer over threads and use the provided lug nuts, tighten in a diamond pattern to 90 ftlbs with a torque wrench. The stock jack/wrench WILL NOT fit over the spacer lugnuts, I had to use an attachment from my brothers Honda Accord which was much thinner.


4) Load your wheels onto the spacer and again tighten in a diamond pattern to ~90ftlbs. Remove the jack and check clearance on full crank turns both left and right.

*FENDER TRIMMING!*
Depending on your lift/tire set up fender trimming will most likely be required and in some cases (like mine) frame grinding will be required. I'm running 265/70/17's Toyo open country rubber, very thick mud tire tread with a 2" poly lift (b.s. lift kit, but it did the trick) I have NO springs/shock upgrades which definitely does not help with clearance or scraping under steering load.

Anyways I started by jigsawing the plastic fender covers. BE CAREFUL on the passenger side, there are three main hoses that come out of the engine bay DO NOT CUT THESE LINES! use hand clippers or remove plastic fender completely before trimming. The drivers side does not have crucial lines, trim-happy. Once the plastic is removed (I only had to remove plastic towards the rear of the vehicle to prevent scraping) I had to begin grinding the frame of the vehicle. There is a large 1.5-2" flange of riveted steel that is about .2" thick where the door side of the vehicle was welded to the floor/cabin area. I loaded my 4.5" grinder with stainless/metal grinding plates (I went through one plate per side)


It took about 45 min to grind each side down fully.....

Here is the finished product installed, no scraping : )


Remember to check all lug nuts after 50 miles of driving, including the spacer lugs! these are the most important, and yes this does mean taking all of the tires off, again...


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07 3.7L. 12000K HID, 3000K HID spotlights, K&N 63-1545 Intake, Airaid TBS, NGK Iridiums, Flowmaster 50 series muffler, Stage 2 Jetchip, Daystar 2.5" liftkit, Spidertrax 1.5" spacer, Toyo Muds 265/70/17
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2009, 09:33 PM
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Great write-up, I did stick it so all our new members can see how this project is completed as I am sure many will want to do this as one of their first mods.





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2006 XK, Steel Armadillo Front Bumper w/Warn Powermate winch, Rear Bumper w/tire carrier & Super Sliders, Rhino Rack Roof Rack and Foxwing Awning, KC Lights on Steel Armadillo Light Bar, 4xGuard Rear Differential Cover, Steel Armadillo Plates.
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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 09:36 PM
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Do you have any pictures of the grinding results? I have the same issue. I hammered the joint as flat as I could, but I need to do some grinding. I just want to stay away from the welds.

'06 Commander Limited 5.7, RR 2.25" Lift, 5/16" Wheel Spacer Kit, 265x70R17 General Grabber AT2, Mopar engine, transfer case, and gas tank skids, Superchip Flashpaq.



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'08 Jeep JK Rubicon Unlimited


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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I'll go out and get a few pictures tonight or tomorrow. On my lower portion it is .2" away from the actual frame, I had to grind all of the extra I could off just to play it safe.
As a side note I got to take the Jeep out on our favorite local sh*t road (8" pot holes everywhere with a 2 foot x 12 ft deep mud pool) and the handling is dramatically better bouncing through the road. Although once I get above 40mph the steering is more sensitive and does take some getting used to.


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07 3.7L. 12000K HID, 3000K HID spotlights, K&N 63-1545 Intake, Airaid TBS, NGK Iridiums, Flowmaster 50 series muffler, Stage 2 Jetchip, Daystar 2.5" liftkit, Spidertrax 1.5" spacer, Toyo Muds 265/70/17
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a pic of the finished grind...I chose not to hammer/fold due to my ogre like nature of bashing things until they break


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07 3.7L. 12000K HID, 3000K HID spotlights, K&N 63-1545 Intake, Airaid TBS, NGK Iridiums, Flowmaster 50 series muffler, Stage 2 Jetchip, Daystar 2.5" liftkit, Spidertrax 1.5" spacer, Toyo Muds 265/70/17
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 10:01 PM
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I hammered the passenger side today, should have just ground it off. Hammering was hard work.



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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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damn i bet. I let my brother have a go with the jigsaw and he got a good chunk halfway out, and then the blade snapped at full speed and flew across our garage...we decided molten metal flashes would be better than shrapnel.


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07 3.7L. 12000K HID, 3000K HID spotlights, K&N 63-1545 Intake, Airaid TBS, NGK Iridiums, Flowmaster 50 series muffler, Stage 2 Jetchip, Daystar 2.5" liftkit, Spidertrax 1.5" spacer, Toyo Muds 265/70/17
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-30-2009, 09:49 PM
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Do I need to put spacer on the back as well or just the front? Will it look even if I just put the spacers in the front? Thanks!
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommanderDrako View Post
Do I need to put spacer on the back as well or just the front? Will it look even if I just put the spacers in the front? Thanks!
Will definitely look uneven if you only do the front.

2006 Silver Jeep Commander Limited 4X4 - 5.7L Hemi, Quadra Drive II, Navigation System, Chrome Fuel Door, Sunroof, Rusty's 2" Lift Kit, Moto Metal M0950 Rims, Goodyear Silent Armor 255/70/17, Front Skid Plate, 4XGuard Belly Skid Plate, RR Supersliders, Chrome Front Tow Hooks, AEM Brute Force Intake, and WeatherTech Floorliners. See Pics
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Semper Fi
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 08:50 AM
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You do realize that those pinch welds were there for a reason and totally grinding them off like that was probablly not a good idea. You should have just used a hammer and bent the pinch weld over.




2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front OME MD Springs w/Superlift Preload Spacer | Rear 4" Superlift Springs | Bilstein 5125 Rear Shocks | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Black Rock 997 Wheels | Fred Goeske 1/4 Inch Wheel Spacers | 305/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R w/Kevlar | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front E-Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
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