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sway bar end links

17K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  patf111 
#1 ·
My driver side front sway bar end link bottom rubber is all chewed up and I need to replace the link. I will be changing both. Is it really as simple as it looks? Does any one know the exact Torx wrench size and nut size. Also the torque tightening specs. Thanks guys.
 
#3 ·
I'm glad this thread is here bc I am about to switch mine out as well. I did the sway bar bushings the other day (NAPA blue ones) and it was really simple, but the end links intimidated me a little. Is an alignment required after end link/bushing replacement? Are there any real differences in end link brands/quality? I realize there is when it comes to things like ball joints, but are, for example, Moog end links that much better than, say NAPA or any part store brand?
Thanks
 
#7 ·
I will. Thanks:icon_cheers:
 
#12 ·
LuckySe7ens, that would help a bunch cuz my Torx set is small so I will have to go buy the exact size. Thanks. Also I do not want to over tighten and ruin the rubber bushing, so if someone knows the TORQUE TIGHTENING SPECS that too would help. Thanks again guys.
 
#13 ·
The end links have a metal collar in them for the through bolt, it will prevent from crushing the bushing.

If I'm wrong or you ever do encounter bushings without a center collar, usually the guidance is tighten the nut until the rubber bushing squishes to reaching flush with the washers on either side.
 
#15 ·
#18 ·
Just got new end links in. Fronts and rears. I imagine we'd wanna remove the tires, correct? And if so, just place the stands under the LCA's up front so the suspension will be in the correct place?
Thanks
 
#22 ·
Did all four end links today. Made a HE-UGE difference in handling and some kind of way my truck seems to be sitting about an inch higher in the front. Is this possible? I mean looking over the hood looks like it came up at LEAST an inch. Also, Moog links up front had rubber bushings, but the rears (also Moog) have a blue poly bushing with grease fitting. Do I need to add grease to the new rears?
Lastly, seems to be a little squeaking coming out of the back. Any quick fixes? Thanks
 
#23 ·
Blue Bushings from MOOG is actually Thermoplastic, even better in many people's opinion than Poly, regardless they are firmer and longer lasting.

If it came with grease fittings and its squeaking, then yea, I would grease it.

I just did new struts/shocks and strut mounts, my Commander also seems to be riding higher up front, closer to level, it looks like it is slowing settling down back to the OEM stance.
 
#24 ·
I did the bad front link (driver side) yesterday. It was pretty easy to loosen, but the passenger wouldn't budge, it seems to be ok though, so I won't worry about it. The top is an 18mm nut, but the bottom is a T55 Torx. I took a pic and will post it soon. On level ground the holes of sway bar and top of the link did not line up and were off by about an inch, not sure if because of the lift. Anyway, I used the driveway slope to move it up and down in the direction to make it even to slip the top bolt on and tighten it.
 
#26 ·
Ok, so just to be sure. When changing the sway bar links, does the vehicle not have to be lifted but leveled (not leaning side to side)? The top bolt should be removed first to prevent stripping? A better sway bar link brand?
 
#27 ·
taking them off, no real challenges there, just unbolt top and bottom. you can do it on the ground or in the air. put the new ones one finger tight while in the air, then tighten them to spec while the vehicle is loaded. i have enough ground clearance to do all of this while its on the ground.
 
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