It is now time to start laying out the mount for drilling. Set the mount onto the front cross member and find a position that is level to the frame rails. You can clamp the mount to the frame to keep be sure it is level.
Next, with the mount level mark the location of the 2 bolt holes that go through the cross member. Remove the mount from the front of the vehicle to drill the two holes. Using a ½” drill bit be sure to drill a straight and level hole through the front and back of the cross member. You can then set the mount back on and using 2 of the supplied bolts and nuts hand tight only bolt the mount through the holes that were just drilled.
With the two bolts through the cross member loosely installed make sure the mount is still level to the rest of the vehicle. If not there is some minor adjustability in the mount that allows you to move an clamp in the final location. Starting on the passenger side, take one slotted support plate and the bolt from the horn bracket and bolt through the plate into the original hole for the horn bracket. Do not tighten the horn bracket bolt it is only used for reference. Be sure that the bracket is level to the rest of the mount and that the slotted areas in both the mount plates and the support plates are lined up both from front to back and top to bottom. From the outside of the frame make a mark in each slot to drill the bolt holes. NOTE: BE SURE YOUR MARK WILL ALLOW YOU TO DRILL A STRAIGT AND LEVEL HOLE THROUGH THE FRAME AND THROUGH THE SLOT ON THE WINCH MOUNT. Next going to the driver side using the other slotted support plate and one bolt from the washer fluid bottle. Take the washer bottle bolt and bolt it through the support plate. Follow the same steps to align the plate and mark the location of the holes. I suggest taking as much time as needed to be sure the holes are drilled in line and the plates inside and outside of the frame line up. Then remove the two bolts installed earlier and remove the mount to drill the holes. Using a ½” drill bit make your 4 holes (2 each frame rail) through both sides of the frame. Then using your touchup paint cover the area of the holes that now have exposed metal.
The mount is now ready for final install. Set the mount back onto the frame. Using 2 bolts with 1 flat washer and 1 lock washer on each, insert the bolts through the holes in the cross member (first 2 drilled holes). Hand tighten the nuts only. Then with 2 flat washers and 1 lock washer on each of the 4 remaining bolts attach the mount through the frame rails. Making sure that the holes for the washer fluid bolt and horn bracket bolt are in the slotted area of the support plate you can then bolt through the 2 holes on each frame rail. It was difficult to take a picture that shows how the assembled and bolted mount looks. The picture below shows an cross sectional view of the way the bolts attach the parts of the winch mount to the frame rail on the front of the vehicle.
After the mount is installed and all the bolts have been loosely installed be sure that you can fit the bolts for the horn and washer fluid bottle through the slots and into their original holes. You can now tighten down all the mounting bolts starting with the two in the cross member (3/4”socket). Then the bolts through the frame rails (3/4” socket). All the bolts should be tightened to 30ft/lb of torque. Then the radiator support braces can be bolted back into place using the studs welded to the winch mount and the original studs on the radiator support. When bolting the hood latch into place be sure to line it up with the marks made during the tear down process.
The horn bracket can then be installed in the reverse of its removal the tab on the bracket may need to be adjusted. The washer fluid bottle install is the reverse of the removal up to the attachment of the filler neck. You will need to drill out the hole for the rivet and using a small bolt reattach the filler neck to the radiator support.
[picture of filler neck bolt]
The next step is to begin cutting and the plastic to reinstall. Start by laying the crush piece over the mount. The entire center section of the crush piece must be cut out. The approximate size of the cutout will be about 25" x 5". It will be necessary to cut and test fit the several times to be sure the crush piece fits tight around the mount. Once the cutting is complete bolt the crush piece back in place using only the 2 bolts that are located under the headlamp assembly.
After the crush piece has been cut and reinstalled you can use the cut out from the crush piece to cut the fascia. Lay the cut out of the crush piece into the inside of the fascia. The cut out will fit in as it would if it were mounted on the vehicle. Mark and drill 4 small reference holes through the fascia at the 4 corners of the crush piece cutout. Be sure to mark and drill the holes closer together than needed, these holes will be used to make the cutout in the fascia. Now, looking at the outside of the fascia, use masking tape to create a rectangle around the 4 holes to make a template for the mount cutout. Make a cutout that is slightly inside the masking tape line and then test fit the fascia. The fascia cutout will be approximately 23" x 7-1/2". DO NOT USE THIS DIMENSION EXACTLY! The cutout in the fascia wraps around the front and on to the top of the bumper to allow clearance for the winch so it may need to be cut in 2 pieces (like you see in the picture) to be sure the winch will fit and the fascia is not cut back too far. This area is what requires the most personal attention. After all the trimming is complete you can use door molding to finish the edge of the cut plastic and help prevent cracking.