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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 07:23 AM
Racer_X
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Moroso 46190 is the "Chrysler" big knurled end studs. 3" under the head, with the "quick start" ends (unthreaded section that makes starting a lug easy).

They are 0.685" at the knurl, and slightly bigger than what's normally on Jeep hubs. There isn't an ideal drill bit for these studs. The card they come on specs a hole size of 0.676" to 0.683". A 43/64 hole is 0.671", and is still a tight press. You won't press them in with the little bearing thing that pulls them through with the lug nut, you really need to put the hubs in a shop press to get them in. It's also best to use a drill press for the drilling, to get the holes straight. I actually prefer to drill 21/32 first, and use a reamer to enlarge the hole to 43/64.

If you don't want the "Ben Hur" chariot look with the lugs sticking out, you can cut them. Here's a few tips for cutting:

Thread a 1/2-20 die on the one you're cutting, backwards, so it will cut on it's way off. Then put a couple of nuts on the thing. The outer nut is "sacrificial" and used as a guide for your cutoff wheel on your angle grinder. The inner nut is a lock nut to keep the guide nut from moving. Both nuts will also act as "heat sinks" to pull some of the heat from cutting out of the stud and into the nuts. Don't use stainless nuts, use the lowest grade 1/2-20 nuts you can find. If you can find brass nuts that size, they will absorb a lot more heat and keep the piece cooler as you cut. Oh, and cutting oil/thread cutting oil applied as you cut will also keep things cooler.

Once it's cut, unlock the nuts from each other, thread them on a bit further and use the grinder cutting disk to chamfer the edges where you cut. Do that before threading everything off. The nuts might be hard to get off, and you might damage the threads in the nuts a bit. Don't sweat that. The die will cut and straighten the threads as it comes off last.

Good luck with it.

Racer_X

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I'm not arguing, I'm just explaining why I'm correct.
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