2008 Commander Rear Wheel Bearings - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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2008 Commander Rear Wheel Bearings

Make a long story short we are the second owner and thus do not have the lifetime warranty on the drive train - the dealership wants $900-00 to $2k to change out the rear wheel bearings - does anyone have a link for the rear axle factory service manual - I wanted to look over the instructions to change out the bearings or a link to buy the PDF file. - again for the factory service repair manual/chapter

I looked the the free chiltons or similar but it is not too clear or don't think that it is - thanks in advance for your help.

If there is a write up then please let me know also - perhaps the rear end on the Commander is the same as other type of Jeeps
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepMom View Post
Make a long story short we are the second owner and thus do not have the lifetime warranty on the drive train - the dealership wants $900-00 to $2k to change out the rear wheel bearings - does anyone have a link for the rear axle factory service manual - I wanted to look over the instructions to change out the bearings or a link to buy the PDF file. - again for the factory service repair manual/chapter

I looked the the free chiltons or similar but it is not too clear or don't think that it is - thanks in advance for your help.

If there is a write up then please let me know also - perhaps the rear end on the Commander is the same as other type of Jeeps
Get a 2nd Opinion before you do anything else, the board is littered with accounts of dealers ripping people off, big time.

In 1994 I replaced the rear wheel bearing in my 1969 Charger, although I pulled the axles myself and found I could NOT press off the bearings with the simple arbor press I had access too, I took the axles to a machine shop and they pressed off/on the bearing for me and charged like $75.

Did the Dealer offer any explanation why 3 year old rear wheel bearing need to be replaced? They should easily last 200k mi, unless they suffered some sort of abuse.

What symptoms do you have that indicate bad rear wheel bearings?


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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 10:04 PM
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+1 on getting a second opinion.
Do you have symptoms of bad wheel bearings?
A year ago I swapped my QTII axles for QDII axles. I purchased the QDII rear axle on line, new from a Chrysler Jeep dealer for $1800.00. It only takes a couple of hours to replace the rear axle.
$2000.00 is a major ripoff to replace the bearings.
See if there is a 4x4 independent shop experienced with jeeps.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-13-2011, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Well after further research I have found out these axles to not have C clips like other Jeeps. Also the shaft and bearings are not in one piece or assembly - the Commander at least and best I can tell thus far on the 08 has a hub assembly - all you do is remove the wheel, caliper, some sensor, and 4 botls and pop the wheel hub out - I have looked online and prices range between $120.00 to $275.00 per hub - I supposed you could also break it down to replace the bearings and save a few extra bucks but may require special tools, etc - as far as the rest of the system, shafts and bearings in the differential I am not sure and hope to not have to get into that.

The reason why I think it is a wheel bearing noise coming from the passenger side is because when I steer left to get the weight/stress off the left side then the noise goes away. I will remove the hub and inspect this weekend.

thanks for the pointers and yes the dealers will rip you off the majority of the time.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-14-2011, 12:23 PM
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Yea, the Dealer refuse to replace smaller parts anymore, they just replace the sub-assemblies. Considering what they charge for labor, they may be saving you money charging for an entire axle assembly then the extra labor to remove and replace the bearing.

I don't know for sure on the Commander, but the general trend has been to go away from the old "C" clip design and new higher quality double race bearings that can be pressed on with an additional retainer and the bearing also does the same job as the "C" clip, of holding the axle shaft into the axle and NOT letting it pull out. Thats sounds like what your drescribing with the "HUB" that bolts into the axle.

Thing is, on something as big as an axle, I'd think you could save a lot just replacing the bearing and re-using that axle shaft. Often a machine shop that uses a press a lot, can do it quick and cheap.

Noise can be caused by a lot of things, including tires and differential? Have you checked the fluid in the differential, rotated the tires? Rear wheel bearing creating noise this early, is NOT likely, but like anything, there is always that fraction of a percent of the parts that something went wrong during the fabrication and wasn't caught by quality control.


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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-14-2011, 06:19 PM
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Mongo,
The OP is describing a Quadra Drive II rear axle.
They are 'full floaters'....the axle bears no weight.
The bearing is a cartridge type and the axle engages the cartridge.
The wheel bolts to the flange that is part of the cartridge......kinda like the front wheel bearing hubs.

The Quadra Trak I and II rear axle is semi floating, same as the old Dodge you described.

Rob


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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Aight - just finished the job and it fixed the problem - piece of cake - I purchased hubs and brake pads from Advan#ce and the gear oil for the differential and hub assembly o-ring from the dealer - all of if set me back including taxes $189.00

I lifted the rear end and then lowered the car on jack stands - took both wheels off, followed the book instructions which by the way the factory manual and if that is what I have SUCKS - I then took the calipers and rotors off - pay close attention to the speed switch and wiring it is also attached to the brake line - I was correct -the noise was coming out of the left rear hub and all you have to do is remove 4 bolts then break it lose - also and not sure if required or not I went ahead and drainned the gear oil as best I could tell some if not all would have spilled out when removing the rear hub.

I will point out on thing and at least on my setup - the book does not mention removing the parking brake - brake shoes - I had to do it in order to pull hte hub bracket off and by far this was then most complicated part of the project - be sure to remove the o-ring before you can remove the back disk plate or to separate the hub from the caliper plate. Then it was just a matter of putting it all back together and it now works like a champ.

Also while you are doing this - you can pull the axle completely out for inspection -

Good luck if anyone else had to do this project.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 09:51 PM
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Thanks for the info. I've always wanted to take the rear hub of one of these axles apart just haven't had the reason/opportunity yet.

I love having a full floater for offroading too. Don't have to worry about your tire falling off if you snap an axle. And with the QDII system we'll still get power to the other wheel

-Matt
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepMom View Post
Aight - just finished the job and it fixed the problem - piece of cake - I purchased hubs and brake pads from Advan#ce and the gear oil for the differential and hub assembly o-ring from the dealer - all of if set me back including taxes $189.00

I lifted the rear end and then lowered the car on jack stands - took both wheels off, followed the book instructions which by the way the factory manual and if that is what I have SUCKS - I then took the calipers and rotors off - pay close attention to the speed switch and wiring it is also attached to the brake line - I was correct -the noise was coming out of the left rear hub and all you have to do is remove 4 bolts then break it lose - also and not sure if required or not I went ahead and drainned the gear oil as best I could tell some if not all would have spilled out when removing the rear hub.

I will point out on thing and at least on my setup - the book does not mention removing the parking brake - brake shoes - I had to do it in order to pull hte hub bracket off and by far this was then most complicated part of the project - be sure to remove the o-ring before you can remove the back disk plate or to separate the hub from the caliper plate. Then it was just a matter of putting it all back together and it now works like a champ.

Also while you are doing this - you can pull the axle completely out for inspection -

Good luck if anyone else had to do this project.
Pics and /or video would have been nice as a help to others. Kind of a tradition here to document for others.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-24-2011, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
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Pics and /or video would have been nice as a help to others. Kind of a tradition here to document for others.
Despite what 5253 posted (which came of fairly nasty - whether intended or not...) we all appreciate you efforts documenting what you remember from the procedure. I think most of us understand pictures are not always possible when your hands are covered in grease and road grime, and you are performing the maintenance by yourself.

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