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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Shocks

Got about 60,000 miles on my Commander. In the past, I've towed my travel trailer and the shocks seemed fine. Now it's getting bouncy and the Jeep tends to dance when I go over imperfections in the road. I guess it's time. Have you guys replaced your shocks yet and at what miles? Also, what do you recommend? Thanks, Ken

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2003 Ford Thunderbird, White, Black Top w/ Port Holes
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 06:17 PM
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Typically the conventional rear shocks are getting rather tired after 50k.
The front cartridges, if not leaking, have a long way to go before they require replacement.....not surprising to see those go well beyond 100k.

So, I agree, you likely are due for rears.
If you found the ride and rebound control satisfactory for your needs then I recommend staying with the factory replacement.
Since you tow though, I would say just about any heavier duty shock (such as Monroe) likely would meet or exceed your needs.

Many members here get into some serious off road stuff and they generally look into the high end ORV products......this may be more than you need.

Good luck,
Rob


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 09:21 PM
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I am around 66k miles on mine. I put on a 2" lift about a year ago. I lately notice some side to side rock when driving over bumps, so I figure I am due also. Just wonder though, how important is it to replace original shocks with 2" lift shocks, or does it really matter?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XKDRIVER View Post
I am around 66k miles on mine. I put on a 2" lift about a year ago. I lately notice some side to side rock when driving over bumps, so I figure I am due also. Just wonder though, how important is it to replace original shocks with 2" lift shocks, or does it really matter?
Doesn't really matter on a moderate lift like yours IMO.

Rob


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 09:45 PM
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Ok, I guess stock than, thanks.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Robby, I agree with you. I'll go for a heavier duty rear shock. The trailer I tow goes about 5200-5300+ lbs.

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2003 Ford Thunderbird, White, Black Top w/ Port Holes
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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The dealer wants $ 275.00 to replace the rear shocks.

2007 Jeep Commander 4X4, 4.7, Steel Blue
2003 Ford Thunderbird, White, Black Top w/ Port Holes
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BADOS View Post
The dealer wants $ 275.00 to replace the rear shocks.
Good grief!
Check out any independent service facility......probably in the 125.00 range installed for rears.
Takes less than 15 minutes a side to replace.

Rob


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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robby View Post
Takes less than 15 minutes a side to replace.
If they are NOT rusted and siezed, even then a pro will have air tools that won't let that slow him down.

This is a job you can do yourself very easily and save that money, or buy the tools you need for the job and still save money and add to your toolbox.

Only drawback, undercarriage bolts sometimes rust and sieze, needing big wrenches or they sometimes break, spraying WD-40, or other penetrating oil, on them every day for a couple days in a row, before doing the job, sometimes helps greatly.

Anyway you go, this job is easily done by any independent shop, why pay twice as much for a dealer to do it when there is no benefit what so ever. They don't need their proprietary tools or some greater experience with this brand of vehicle to do the job better.


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo View Post
If they are NOT rusted and siezed, even then a pro will have air tools that won't let that slow him down.

This is a job you can do yourself very easily and save that money, or buy the tools you need for the job and still save money and add to your toolbox.

Only drawback, undercarriage bolts sometimes rust and sieze, needing big wrenches or they sometimes break, spraying WD-40, or other penetrating oil, on them every day for a couple days in a row, before doing the job, sometimes helps greatly.

Anyway you go, this job is easily done by any independent shop, why pay twice as much for a dealer to do it when there is no benefit what so ever. They don't need their proprietary tools or some greater experience with this brand of vehicle to do the job better.
Mongo,
He's in West Palm Beach.......it'll unscrew by hand unless he has parked it in the Gulf.

I would recommend a DIY but in reading the post I am led to believe he would rather just not pay too much to get this service done.

To the poster, BADOS: Am I correct?

Rob


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