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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Show me your Kayak setup

Looking into setting up the Commander for transporting my Kayak, I have a wide range of them, as of now I am still using my old ford ranger to transport them. I have factory bars now, and I am looking for advice for the best set up. Trying to research what works well what doesn't.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 09:50 AM
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You have a wide range of what? Kayaks or vehicles?

There are several companies offer carriers and i know some folks here have
posted set ups.

Thule

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Originally Posted by CobraCommander View Post
Looking into setting up the Commander for transporting my Kayak, I have a wide range of them, as of now I am still using my old ford ranger to transport them. I have factory bars now, and I am looking for advice for the best set up. Trying to research what works well what doesn't.

Thanks.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 10:03 AM
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Honestly, the best thing is to get foam "v's" if you have a nice kayak and just strap it right on the top. I have sit on top kayaks and I just wratchet straps through scupper holes and tighten it down. It's as solid as a rock and cost me nothing. Works great on the stock cross bars even with two kayaks stacked on top of one another. My neighbor has a nicer sit on top and she uses the foam V, places the yak on top and straps it down. Seems to work good for her also. She's a little more concerned about warping the kayak in the sun with the pressure. Me, not so much.

If you have a very spendy yak and want to keep it extra nice then most people use the "J" holders. Personally, I think they're all a rip off.

Last edited by StateRoad42; 06-22-2011 at 10:05 AM.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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sorry I have a wide range of kayaks I am looking to strap on to the roof of my Jeep. I know there are several options out there just wondering what people have found to work well with the commander with it being High off the ground. As of now I just throw them into the back of a pickup truck.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 10:05 AM
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I am having custom adaptors built by Stone Soup Metal Works so that I can use my Thule Kayak Racks on my Rhino Rack Pioneer Tray. They should be done in a week or two.





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2006 XK, Steel Armadillo Front Bumper w/Warn Powermate winch, Rear Bumper w/tire carrier & Super Sliders, Rhino Rack Roof Rack and Foxwing Awning, KC Lights on Steel Armadillo Light Bar, 4xGuard Rear Differential Cover, Steel Armadillo Plates.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StateRoad42 View Post
Honestly, the best thing is to get foam "v's" if you have a nice kayak and just strap it right on the top. I have sit on top kayaks and I just wratchet straps through scupper holes and tighten it down. It's solid as a rock and cost me the price of the straps. Works great on the stock cross bars even with two kayaks stacked on top of one another.

If you have a very spendy kayak and you want to keep it extra nice then most people use the "J" holders. Personally, I think they're all a ripe off.
for the 30 bucks for the foam pad kits from dicks might be worth just trying them out before I invest a couple of hundred, thanks for the advice.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 10:19 AM
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I have a 16 footer triple sit-on-top and a 15 footer touring Kayak. The foam blocks are perfect and priced right. I might have imagined it but I think I got 2mph better gas mileage when I have my triple face down on the top.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2011, 10:49 PM
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I read somewhere that foam blocks weren't so good for the Interstate, I just bought my first Kayak, it's a tandem so I'm still trying to figure this out myself. Here is the boat:
http://www.wildernesssystems.com/pro...ar_r_seakayak/

It's pretty long and 93lbs.

I was looking at the Mopar solution, but it's pretty expensive:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/canoe-c...-82204700.html
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/mopar/j...tility-bar.htm

Saw some people using square tube and bolts as cross bars too but not sure which direction to go yet.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-28-2011, 04:48 PM
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I found this----



Used a swimming pool noodle on pvc pipes....

Mounted:


Maybe this can give you some ideas....


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-28-2011, 06:11 PM
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Iíll have to post some pix.



I donít have a kayak, but I do have a Porta-Bote. http://www.porta-bote.com/ It's very much the same idea when it's folded down like a surfboard.


I mounted a Harbor freight Tools board roller on the back of the roof rack. It's made for holding your long boards/planks when using a radial arm saw and the like. I used the base piece for other things, and used just the roller piece itself on the rack. It was less than $20. Here it is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/132-lb-...and-95621.html


The roller itself removes from the bracket by pushing a button on one end. I made up a piece of 2x4 wrapped in carpet with holes underneath that match the roller bracket when the roller's removed.



The Porta-Bote hull weighs 70 lbs. When I fold it up, I rest the bow end on the installed roller, and shove it up onto the rack, which is uber-easy with the roller. When it's up in place, I hold up the boat hull with a shoulder, remove the roller, and drop on the carpeted 2x4 and drop the hull back down onto it. I then use ratchet straps to hold the boat into place, and it's road ready.


In my case, the bote's seats and transom go onto the rack under the hull, and for a kayak, you could do the same with your gear.


Unloading's the opposite... switch back to the roller, and the boat glides off the roof rack. I made the carpet-block piece because the ratchet straps make it hold tightly to the carpet. The roller might let the hull slide fore and aft, a bad idea when on the freeway.

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