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2007 Commander 4.7 overheating

33K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  Big Blue 
#1 ·
My 2007 Commander 4.7L AWD started to overhead a month ago. I assumed it was the thermostat and I changed it out. It seemed to work. I now has done it again. I took out the thermostat, put the seal back in and tried it again only for the temps to rise. I am using an Ultra gauge to verify this since the gauge on the dash shows it fine. The viscus fan is running and I can't tell if the water pump is working. What would cause this?
 
#2 ·
Update - I let her sit for the rest of the day. Came home flushed the radiator and have been driving around the neighborhood. No thermostat, tap water in her, running the ac full blast. I haven't gotten over 185f. Running cooler with ac that without. Crazy truck?
 
#3 ·
Stupid question but did you get all the air pockets out of the system? On the 4.7 liter, after you mess with anything like the t-stat or water pump you have to get all the air pockets out or you WILL over heat. On the engine where the upper radiator hose connects there is a plug that takes an Allen socket that you have to unscrew and pour fluid in using a funnel. Then start th jeep with the heat on high and keep pouring fluid through that hole until it's full and no more bubbles come out.
 
#5 ·
I filled it through that plug the first time but didn't do the second part you said. I guess their could have been a pocket of air but doubtful. We will see how she runs tomorrow in the heat of day a full load on the engine when going to work. Still will have the thermostat out at that time.
 
#6 ·
I'm 100% positive that you had/have an air pocket if you didn't let the engine run with the heat on high and let all the air bubbles out of the system. It's a process that takes several minutes. You need to do this with the t-stat in. Not sure why you even have it out. I've owned my Commander for over 6 years now and know it like the back of my hand!
 
#7 ·
As a sidebar, what is the secondary thermostat you're using? I'm not familliar with it.

Since the stock thermometer in the cab isn't registering an issue, is it possible that the "instant read" unit you're possibly using is simply reading the max/min before the engine draws the cooler fluid through by convection, therefore giving you an exaggerated sense of danger?

I'm an electrician and welder, I work on power plants including nuclear power generators, so I'm not a mechanic, but I deal with temperature fluctuations because of mechanical and fluid changes daily.
 
#8 ·
I have the thermostat out because water stopped flowing. I believe the Dex-Cool clogged up my original one and the new (off-brand) one I had replaced it with. I am picking up an OEM thermostat today and putting Preston in tonight. She ran in the 140'sF to 160'sF going to work today with no issues. Must have been the thermostat and then an air bubble.

I have not looked at the overflow tank to see how it can be drained. Will it be obvious when I look at it or is it complicated like anothe vehicle I have?

The temp gauge in the vehicle had been screwy yesterday but I think the air bubble issue may have been the culprit, so thanks for the info! My OBDII reader is UltraGauge. It is both an OBDII Scan Tool and an Information center that displays selectable engine gauges. I need it for my Land Rover Disco, that's a whole other issue with maintenance and trouble shooting. The gauge is handy when driving and has a digital readout instead of a needle pointing ok or HOT.

07JeepXK & Rojer Ramjet - Thanks!
 
#10 ·
#9 · (Edited)
I haven't broken open the cooling system on my Commander yet. But, other Chrysler vehicles I have owned, I have gotten overheating from air bubbles in the system after draining/refilling the cooling system, so it is very possible.

After a drain/refill, I drive a few miles, check the coolant level (under the pressure cap) I almost always have to add coolant for the air that has worked its way out of the system. Once I got enough air out that it won't overheat, I check the coolant level every day for a week, until no more is needed to be added.

When was Dexcool added to your vehicle? You're NOT assuming the original factory fill is Dexcool are you? It isn't, it's another type of long life antifreeze called "HOAT", it does NOT have the problems that Dexcool has.

Ouf of curousity, what brand/type of antifreeze did you use when you refilled you vehicle's cooling system?

Viscous Clutch Fan. The test I have used with other Jeeps with a viscous clutch (my Commander doesn't have one), is with the motor off and cool, I give the fan a push, there should be enough resistance that the fan won't continue to rotate on its own after even a hard push by hand. Worn viscous clutches, the fan will continue to rotate on its own. I've read its still good if it makes less than half a turn, but IMO, if it rotates at all after a hand push, there is too much slip in the viscous clutch.
 
#12 ·
Use dealer coolant or only! What don't people understand about our vehicles using a special coolant! That all makes all model bs doesn't work in our jeeps
 
#20 · (Edited)
Actually, the Commander doesn't use a special coolant, well no more special than any other new vehicle and arguably the most common of the new vehicles because this HOAT has been used in just about every new Ford, Chrysler and Mercedes Benz for the last 10 years or more.

But, the aftermarket antifreeze market has been a mess since manufacturers started developing long life anti-freeze, and I would NOT trust a single claim on any of the bottles unless I see enough independent evidence to prove its true.

Zerex G-05 is the aftermarket equivalent of Chrysler/Ford/MB HOAT, considering most of the Dealers are selling fluids at reasonable prices, if you can't find Zerex G-05, yea go to the dealer and buy the Chrysler HOAT.

The European manufacturers other than Mercedes Benz have their own version of HOAT. You probably have to go to the dealer for their version, G-05 should mix fine with them, and always follow the sooner replacement schedule of the two if you mix them. But I wouldn't risk it, either buy the right stuff from the dealer or drain and flush to change it out totally is the only safe way to go.

GM and the Japaneses use their own versions of OAT antifreeze, only GM uses the problem and incompatible with others antifreezes "2EHA" in their DexCool. The only specific OAT antifreeze being sold on the aftermarket that I am aware of is DexCool and it does NOT mix with any other antifreeze, including other OAT antifreezes. The "2EHA" in DexCool will soften and disolve plastic and rubber in older vehicles and vehicles NOT recommended for it, all OAT antifreezes will NOT protect brass, bronze and other metals in the cooling system of older vehicles or those NOT recommended for DexCool, although most new vehicles have eliminated those plastics and metals from their cooling system that won't work with DexCool, its NOT a guarantee. All other antifreezes prevent corrosion by coating the surfaces in cooling system, except OAT antifreezes, the fluid has to be in contact with the surface to prevent corrosion, so if there are any air bubbles in the cooling system corrosion will happen and fast. Dexcool is notorious for a cooling system that develops a leak and getting air in it, and as it goes unoticed, gunking up the entire cooling system with massive amounts of corrosion. And because of that, any OAT is a poor choice for a vehicle NOT recommended by its manufacturer to use OAT antifreeze, and DexCool the least of all antifreezes.

The old universal original Green (IAT) antifreeze, arguably it protects better than all the new antifreezes, PROVIDED YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS, which no followed the instructions, that is why we now have a dozen different new long life antifreezes. It is a good candidate to retrofit to any vehicle, if you drain and flush all the old out, don't mix antifreezes (although HOAT is very tolerant to mixing with the old Green antifreeze), PROVIDED YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. That is too change it every 2yr/30k miles and only mix it with distilled/demineralized water.

And what does Automotive Aftermarket do? Well since no one is holding them accountable, they go out and market DexCool with "2EHA" as a new universal antifreeze, which it is anything but.
 
#13 ·
I understand it, I just didn't know it. Fortunately, I have not needed to add coolant.
 
#14 ·
I wasn't referring to you lol
 
#15 ·
From the time I've been here, it seems like the past month or two the coolant thing has been a hot topic. Keeps coming up lol. I just flushed mine and put Zerex in. No issues, though it started yellow, and has now turned into almost the OEM orange/red.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Not leaking fluids. I will check the viscous fan. The coolant recommendation came from off Land Rover group due to that groups over heating issues. They suggested Water Wetter as well. What will be detrimental using something like a Preston?
So you are going to take advice from a Land Rover group over a Commander group on how to maintain your Commander ? Did you read the thread I referenced in my other post ?
 
#18 ·
I am not questioning the knowledge mechanics hear. I have come here for help. Chemistry of the coolant was a question and yes I know not to mix them. I went with Zerex.

I did everything stated above. Ran 15-20 minutes on high heat watching for bubbles then took a drive around for 2 minutes and got coolant spray. I can't find out exactly where it came from but the underside of block is drenched.

Not sure if thermostat is working. Should the hose from the bottom of radiator to thermostat be cool?
 
#21 ·
I suggest you take a look at the water pump.
 
#22 ·
Going to a recommended indy mechanic, this is the wife's daily and I don't have the time to tear that much down at night and be back to work in the AM. After trying everyrthing twice tonight, crawled under the truck when it was off and now see fluid dripping arround the water pump. Not sure if long run time and thermostat in caused anything but the dripping is new.

Thanks for the advice.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I would say that the water pump was the source of your overheating the whole time. It could have gone bad from using the wrong coolant. But that takes a while to happen. Make sure the mechanic puts in the correct coolant. My suggestion is to buy the coolant and give it to him just to be sure. Also be sure to use the OEM thermostat.
 
#24 ·
Water pumps go bad, and when they do, they start to leak.

I've seen some things saying water pumps are designed for specific coolant used in the motor, I think its just a subtle difference. Sure bad antifreeze can gunk up and cause all sorts of problems, including the water pump, BUT, if you don't see any other problems and the antifreeze isn't causing gunk in the system, etc, then I'd just say you had a water pump go bad and didn't catch it right away.
 
#25 ·
Mechanic said it was the water pump, going to pick her up now. Thanks all for the input, now to address some of her other issues. Researching this issue led me to read other posts about similar issues I am having. At least I should be "coolly" driving again tonight.
 
#26 ·
Update: All was good except when I started the the truck since I got it back it has had a different sound when starting. It has as little pop or maybe wet sound when it initially turns over. Wondered if it was leaking coolant into the plugs. Wife drives it and haven't heard any bad reports from her until last night. Service light came on. Went to read the codes tonight and no warning light was on but my code reader pulled up P0300 & P1412. Head gasket or something worse? It drives fine but is a bigger problem coming? I am worried she drove it hot when the water pump initially failed.
 
#27 ·
Need some help. Found out the wife had purchased the extended warranty with carmax when we bought the car. At carmax now to address some issues that have happened after water pump was fixed. Codes p0300 p0307 the tech pulled the #7 plug to find s dry sheen and the plug burnt down. They say to replace plugs and all good. My issue is since water pump replace, I have had a wet sound when starting the truck. Also some fluild build up and draining around catalytic converter. Not sure if they are giving me a bandaid. Also found codes c1438 & c1417 which they are now fixing for a 4wd banner that shows up after I start the truck. Here is my timing delima, I have a 100,000 mile warranty and have just under 98k on truck. I need one fix now, don't have time to see if plugs burn out in less than 2k miles. Any insight?
 
#28 · (Edited)
rreinholt, curious if they performed a compression test? I wonder if cyl7 is leaking exhaust into the coolant, causing the misfire and also the fluid build-up around the cat. If they're going to recommend you replace the spark plugs I would definitely have a compression test done.

UPDATE: Sorry, just realized that was from 2013, also the year he was last active on the forum. I guess we'll never know what happened. I was hoping for an update on this and his other post: https://www.jeepcommander.com/forum...0202-p0300-check-engine-codes.html#post261721.

I'm having a similar issue with mine.
 
#29 ·
rreinholt, curious if they performed a compression test? I wonder if cyl7 is leaking exhaust into the coolant, causing the misfire and also the fluid build-up around the cat. If they're going to recommend you replace the spark plugs I would definitely have a compression test done.

UPDATE: Sorry, just realized that was from 2013, also the year he was last active on the forum. I guess we'll never know what happened. I was hoping for an update on this and his other post: https://www.jeepcommander.com/forum...0202-p0300-check-engine-codes.html#post261721.

I'm having a similar issue with mine.
@tankman67;

You're correct; It's kind of frustrating when people start threads like this and never follow up with their results.
 
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