Modern engines and cooling systems often trap air in the cooling system after draining and refilling them. If this happens, you likely to overheat until you've worked the air out of the system. After you fill the system, run the engine a few minutes, if its still cool open the radiator and fill it again, a lot of air might have worked its way up there.
I've often experienced overheating right after refilling the cooling system on a lot of vehicles I've owned. I haven't done my Commander yet, but my brother's '07 GC has the exact same engine and cooling system and when we drained and refilled his, he experienced an overheat on the first test drive. We let it cool, popped the pressure cap and filled it with more coolant and he checked it a dozen time over the next two weeks and kept topping it off as the air worked its way out. But after the first time, it never overheated again.
A word on Chemical Flushes:
When its recommended to flush your cooling system, it means to flush your cooling system with water, the only time you need to use harsh chemical additives in a flush if is you have some sort of built up deposits in your cooling system that are bad enough that they are hampering your cooling system. The chemicals can damage seals and hoses, especially if you don't fully flush them out of the system before refilling. If there is no evidence of build up in the cooling system, that needs some sort of chemical to loosen it to help flush it out, why would you put those harsh chemicals in your cooling system? So don't.
A Word on Anti-Freeze:
Do NOT mix anti-freezes, of one type and another.
For the most reliable results, use the OEM recommended anti-freeze, like mention, that is Chrysler Spec HOAT and the only anti-freezes I'm aware of that meet that spec is the actual anti-freeze from the Dealer or Zerex G-05.
Although NOT recommended, you are unlikely to have a problem if you switch to another type of anti-freeze, provided you fully drain and flush the system before switching to another type, so you don't mix it with an incompatible type of anti-freeze.
The Old Conventional Green IAT anti-freezes still are the best protecting anti-freeze, as long as you use distilled water to mix with it and change it every 2 years/30k miles, which no one ever did, that is why we have 2 dozen special new long life anti-freezes.
Avoid GM Dexcool like the plague, even though they have improved it, it still has all sorts of problems. And sadly, all the aftermarket anti-freeze companies are packaging their own versions of GM Dexcool and calling it an universal anti-freeze, which it is anything but. Look at the ingredients on the jug, if it says it contains 2-Ethylhexyl Acrylate or 2-EHA it is DexCool. Sometimes they will list the Industry Spec additive package number, which I forget what it is for DexCool.
Don't rely on the color of the anti-freeze, its just dye, and two totally incompatible anti-freezes can be dyed the same color. As well, two identical anti-freezes can be different colors because the company selling it uses different dyes.
And that is finally that is probably the smartest and safest advice, instead of doing hours of research to figure this all out, and you might still be wrong, just stick with what is proven, the Dealer Anti-Freeze of Zerex G-05?
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.