Brake Controller Install - Problem w/ factory wiring?? - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Controller Install - Problem w/ factory wiring??

I am stuck, not sure where to go from here... I have an 07 Commander with factory tow package installed, 7 pin connector at the hitch. I bought the Tenkosha Prodigy P3 brake controller. Installation certainly wasnt quick, but was uneventful. The green brake wire behind the fuse box is way too short, but I eventually got it connected. The brake switch white/tan was a pain as well. All in all, eventually I got it done.

Here's where the problem comes in... The controller fires up just fine. It always says "No trailer connection" when I hit any buttons. I have tested all my connections I made for continuity and they are fine.

Where I think there may be an issue is with the green wire - this should go to the light blue wire in the 7 pin connector? I assume there should be continuity between these wires but there isnt. I just dont know where to go from here.

Any tips?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-15-2014, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody? Someone's gotta know where this blue wire runs and how I can find out why it isn't working with the green wire behind the dash. Please!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 12:47 AM
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It is a real simple wiring diagram. The four wires are power, ground, input from the same wire that activates the brake lights and the final wire is the heavy blue wire that is the output and goes back to the socket for the trailer brakes.

Maybe you could use a test light to see what wire lights up the test light when you press the brake pedal.

If that is ok then check for output from the controller to the wire going back. Test it at the controller and if good then at the rear socket. You must have the power and ground correct if you got it to light up.

2007 Jeep Green Limited 4.7 Flex Fuel, RR 2.5" 4 inch Superlift coils on rear, 1.5" Spacers, Bridgestone 265/70/17, K&N CAI, Flowmaster, Diamond Plate Locking Trunk, Blue Ox Baseplate w/D-rings, "Get Lost 4X4" Front Bumper, T-Max 9000 winch, "Get Lost rear tire carrier, 30 gal second gas tank.
Second 2007 Jeep Green Limited Leather HEMI QDII VES Uconnect Flowmaster OEM Skids Tow Package

Maybe the two will meet up soon edit: they did , I now have 2,now gave 1 away...and got it back again.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HueyPilotVN View Post
It is a real simple wiring diagram. The four wires are power, ground, input from the same wire that activates the brake lights and the final wire is the heavy blue wire that is the output and goes back to the socket for the trailer brakes.

Maybe you could use a test light to see what wire lights up the test light when you press the brake pedal.

If that is ok then check for output from the controller to the wire going back. Test it at the controller and if good then at the rear socket. You must have the power and ground correct if you got it to light up.
HueyPilot, thanks for trying to help. Yes, the power and ground are correct or it wouldnt function. The P3 controller is actually nice as it has a diagnostic mode - it tells me that there is voltage when I apply the brake so I know the stoplamp switch (red wire) is wired properly as well. I can check continuity between the blue wire on the controller whip and the green wire behind the fuse panel that communicates with the brakes - this connection is fine.

I cannot however get continuity between the green wire behind the fuse box and the blue wire in the factory harness at the 7 pin connector, I am certain my problem lies in this circuit, I just do not know where the green wire behind the fuse panel runs to before ending up as a blue wire at the 7 pin.... If that makes sense?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 07:13 PM
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One option is to run a heavy blue wire from the output of the controller to the seven pin socket. That is the way we used to do it before we could connect a factory harness.

2007 Jeep Green Limited 4.7 Flex Fuel, RR 2.5" 4 inch Superlift coils on rear, 1.5" Spacers, Bridgestone 265/70/17, K&N CAI, Flowmaster, Diamond Plate Locking Trunk, Blue Ox Baseplate w/D-rings, "Get Lost 4X4" Front Bumper, T-Max 9000 winch, "Get Lost rear tire carrier, 30 gal second gas tank.
Second 2007 Jeep Green Limited Leather HEMI QDII VES Uconnect Flowmaster OEM Skids Tow Package

Maybe the two will meet up soon edit: they did , I now have 2,now gave 1 away...and got it back again.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HueyPilotVN View Post
One option is to run a heavy blue wire from the output of the controller to the seven pin socket. That is the way we used to do it before we could connect a factory harness.
Yes, that is what I'll end up doing most likely if I cannot fix this and utilize the factory wiring.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-17-2014, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AustinXL View Post
Anybody? Someone's gotta know where this blue wire runs and how I can find out why it isn't working with the green wire behind the dash. Please!
Same thing with my 06', 4.7 with factory tow package. There was a green wire dangling out of the bundle behind the underdash fuse panel but no continuity to the 7 pin e-brake pin. Reading the other 14 page post I found The White Fox's post about finding the actual blue wire tie wrapped up in the engine compartment just behind the fuse boxes. That is where I found the blue wire that had continuity to the 7-pin e-brake pin. Ran that blue wire thru the firewall, connected to the brake controller (same one prodigy 3), and bam got trailer brakes.

Last edited by Bpgusgig; 06-17-2014 at 08:06 AM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2014, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bpgusgig View Post
Same thing with my 06', 4.7 with factory tow package. There was a green wire dangling out of the bundle behind the underdash fuse panel but no continuity to the 7 pin e-brake pin. Reading the other 14 page post I found The White Fox's post about finding the actual blue wire tie wrapped up in the engine compartment just behind the fuse boxes. That is where I found the blue wire that had continuity to the 7-pin e-brake pin. Ran that blue wire thru the firewall, connected to the brake controller (same one prodigy 3), and bam got trailer brakes.
Good tip, I'll look for that wire. You dont happen to have a picture do you?
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