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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-12-2014, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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One last try

Hey guys, I wanted to give this one more shot before I break down and have a shop do it.
I have tried multiple times to get my rough country 2 inch lift put on. I know it's not supposed to be that hard but I can't for the life of me get that bottom strut bolt out and when I tried taking out the upper control arm I was short about 1/2 an inch getting the strut back in with the spacer on.
So I'm looking for anyone in NY near Albany or Saratoga that has successfully put this lift on and is willing to help me out. I know it's kind of a long shot with how small the commander community is (even smaller if you count the people who mod theirs) but I figured I would try.

Thanks,
Matt

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-12-2014, 01:21 PM
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Its been a few years since I did mine but I had the same issue. I was eventually able to get the bolt out using a long breaker bar and big hammer. The impact gun was useless because the bolt seizes inside the bushing and pretty much just bounces back each time the impact hits it. I had to preload the bolt with the breaker bar and smack the crap out of the other end to drive it through. It only moved a hair each time so it took a while. If you have access to an air hammer that might also help.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-12-2014, 03:10 PM
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I attempted this install myself and that's where I got hung up too. I eventually put it all back together and took it to a local mechanic to have the lift kit installed. He said he had to heat it up in order to be able to remove it. Good luck though! That one bolt can be a challenge.

2008 Commander Limited 5.7L HEMI QDII
Mods: AFE Magnum Force Stage 2 CAI, OME HD Lift w/OME Shocks and Struts, Goodyear Wrangler All Terrains w/Kevlar 255/70R17, JBA Gen 6.7 Upper Control Arms, Hypertech Speedo Calibrator, Magnaflow cat-back system, Custom Retrofit HID Projectors, LED Conversion Kit for Fog Lights, Rigid Industries D2 LED Driving Lights


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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 06:49 AM
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The problem with the lower strut fork bolt is that once water gets inside there it starts to rust forming a weld between the bolt and the inner metal sleeve of the bushing. Once this happens it can sometimes be impossible to get that bolt out leading to you having to torch it out and replacing both the bolt and bushing. My recommendation is never seize those bolts really good so you don't have the same issue in the future




2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front OME MD Springs w/Superlift Preload Spacer | Rear 4" Superlift Springs | Bilstein 5125 Rear Shocks | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Black Rock 997 Wheels | Fred Goeske 1/4 Inch Wheel Spacers | 305/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R w/Kevlar | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front E-Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-14-2014, 10:16 AM
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One suggestion, that does NOT help for those trying to get the bolt unseized, but to avoid the same thing in the future, liberally coat the whole bolt and the inside of the bushing with Anti-Seize compound.

In fact that is my general policy for any undercarriage bolts, since they all are prone to seize from corrosion from water/dirt/road salt, anytime I remove/reinstall them, I use either anti-seize or blue thread lock on them, depending on what seems more appropraite for the size or type of fastener.

Thread lock will coat and harden inside the threads and seal out water/dirt/salt and prevent the corrosion. Anti-Seize acts like a sacrificial anode to prevent the corrosion from happening.


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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuvMyCommander View Post
I attempted this install myself and that's where I got hung up too. I eventually put it all back together and took it to a local mechanic to have the lift kit installed. He said he had to heat it up in order to be able to remove it. Good luck though! That one bolt can be a challenge.
If you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost you to have the shop do it?

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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Power-Train: 4.7L V-8
4WD
If 4WD - system: QT-II
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Thanks for the stories and tips guys. I think I'll just end up getting a shop to do the install. If I had a garage then I would spend the hours/days working at this bolt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo View Post
One suggestion, that does NOT help for those trying to get the bolt unseized, but to avoid the same thing in the future, liberally coat the whole bolt and the inside of the bushing with Anti-Seize compound.

In fact that is my general policy for any undercarriage bolts, since they all are prone to seize from corrosion from water/dirt/road salt, anytime I remove/reinstall them, I use either anti-seize or blue thread lock on them, depending on what seems more appropraite for the size or type of fastener.

Thread lock will coat and harden inside the threads and seal out water/dirt/salt and prevent the corrosion. Anti-Seize acts like a sacrificial anode to prevent the corrosion from happening.
Thanks for the Tip Mongo, I'll make sure I put something on those bolts once they come out.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 01:41 PM
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I live in Minnesota so i could not get the clevis bolt out either. I used a spring compressor on the strut to give enough clearance, remove upper control arm slip it out put on the spacer. You will need 2 people to get it back in most likely. Push down on the lower control arm get the strut in position. I had to use a foot to kick it in close than use a small pry bar put it through the whole in the engine bay and then into the whole on the strut pry into place it will pop in. Might take a couple tries but it is possible and it does slip under the fender with no issue scratching anything.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 09:54 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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Wish I could help you out bro, I have a RC 2inch kit sitting in my living room right now....just going to take it to the shop...The one in here in Raleigh is saying $440 for installation and alignment...I don't know if that's good or not, so I'm going to keep shopping around, If you do decide to take it to the shop let me know the pricing you find out.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaotic View Post
If you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost you to have the shop do it?
To be honest, I do not remember the exact price but I remember thinking that it wasn't bad at all for the amount of work. I remember it being no greater than $150 for installing new struts, shocks, and the lift kit. He then later installed the JBA UCAs too for a good price.

If anybody is in the Chicago area and is looking for this type of work I would definitely recommend him.

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Mods: AFE Magnum Force Stage 2 CAI, OME HD Lift w/OME Shocks and Struts, Goodyear Wrangler All Terrains w/Kevlar 255/70R17, JBA Gen 6.7 Upper Control Arms, Hypertech Speedo Calibrator, Magnaflow cat-back system, Custom Retrofit HID Projectors, LED Conversion Kit for Fog Lights, Rigid Industries D2 LED Driving Lights


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