Oh Geez, you're the one that posted about sync'ing the Cam/Crank Position sensors on another thread.
This code would mean that either the cam and crank timing is off mechanically, or a bad Cam or Crank position sensor.
A bad crank position sensor most likely would cause the engine to NOT run at all.
A bad cam position sensor most likely would cause the engine to NOT run at all. Its poossible your year 4.7L has a wasted spark ignition, if that is true, the PCM would make a 50/50 guess at the phasing of the motor on each start up, if it guessed right for that start up the motor would run fine, but if it guessed wrong the motor would run poorly. The idle and low speed driving would be horrible if this was true, and only some startups NOT all.
Or you crank/cam timing could be off, if it was retarded, you'd have better idle/low speed driveability but worse High RPM power, opposite if it was advanced. That would cause the code P0016 to be thrown.
The 4.7L is chaing driven timing gear, it is extriodinarily unlikely that chain drive skipped a tooth. Chains break and the motor doesn't run. They stretch, but the 4.7L has tensioners for that, and if one of the tensioners broke, you would be hearing noticeable engine noise.
If the cam gear or cam had been removed and reinstalled incorrectly, it is possible it could be out of alignment.
...I just had head gaskets replaced about a month ago (by an awful shop I might add took them 6 WEEKS to get it done) , not sure if that makes any difference or not. Ideally I'd rather fix it myself as im a little jaded right now about shops.
The 4.7L is an Overhead Cam engine, meaning you have to remove the cam and timing gear to pull the head to replace the gasket.
Hmmmm, and the shop doing the job ended up NOT impressing you as a compentent organization?
What do you think might be the most likely cause of your DTC P0016, perhaps an incorrectly aligned cam/timing gear during reassembly?
Have you had this problem since you've gotten the vehicle back from the shop?
Less than reputable Dealer's and Shop's can do a "Tilt and Slip" job when replacing headgaskets. Instead of removing the head properly and cleaning the surfaces properly, and then re-assembling it all properly; they just disassemble everything enouth to be able to tilt the head up a bit, with the cam and timing gear still assembled, slide the old gasket out and slide a new one in. It can be done in a lot less time doing this horrible shortcut, but NOT only will the new gasket NOT seal as well and fail early, it is easy to damage the cam/timing gear or get the cam/timing gear to skip a tooth and be out of alignment.
NOT saying they did a "Tilt and Slip" job, its just as likely the mechanic did the gasket change properly and then messed up the timing gear alignment or the tensioner install.